Eagle

Hey! I resemble that remark! (Danged compooters, n fuel injectors n stuff. Carburetors RULE!)

Again, I have to disagree. You can't "choose your truths." Truth is what IS, and truth is truth irrespective of who believes it and even if NO ONE believes it. You can choose what you want to believe but, if you choose incorrectly, then your belief is not truth.

"Agreeing to disagree" is nothing more than saying "You can't ever convince me that what you are saying is right or correct and I don't have time to try to convert you to my way of thinking, so we'll just call it quits. You live your life and I'll live my life, and we won't interfere with each other." How is your veracity or morality in any way compromised (in the sense of "diminished") by that? You haven't agreed to what the other person says or claims, you have done nothing more than acknowledge that neither side is going to change the other's view(s).

That one is MUCH more difficult.

We don't choose what truth is. Truth IS. If everyone lies about everything, the only thing we can choose is which lie to believe, or to try to imagine what we think might be the truth. The fact we might choose to believe lie 'A' rather than lie 'B' doesn't make lie 'A' the truth. It may be (and probably is) that none of us will ever know -- within the span of our lives -- what the real truth is. Of course, at my age it's more likely that I'll never know the truth than it is for you younger folks. Maybe the truth will somehow get out within the span of your lives. But when most of the media (and effectively ALL of the major media) have been co-opted, even if you hear the truth someday, how will you know it's the truth rather than just another version of another lie?

The lock ring and gasket usually aren't the problem. What often happens is that the steel tubes are (I think) soldered where they pass through the mounting flange, and the solder joint cracks. If you add enough gas to make it leak, you'll probably see it weeping around one or both of those two steel tubes. I think there used to be a member here who repaired that for other members, but J-B Weld has been reported to work well. You'll need to siphon out enough gas to stop the weeping, then clean both the tubes and the mounting flange VERY well, down to bare metal. Then mix up your J-B Weld and apply it.

Not "hang" -- "tilt." Support the tailshaft or tranny or transfer case body with a scissor jack or small hydraulic jack.

What if the truth doesn't lie between the two, but well outside the two? What do you do when both sides lie so much that it becomes virtually impossible to discern what the truth is?

I thought that ad was one of THE most cringe-worthy ads of all time. It was condescension raised to exponential levels. That is all.

92%. I think my age is showing.

So where you you find a dummy AA battery? {Edit} Never mind ... https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Placeholder-Cylinder-Dummy-Setup/dp/B07QL5JFP7

I think we all wish you had asked before you bought. The XJ hitch mounts to the underside of the "frame" rails, with those nut strips slid in from the back after removing the rear bumper. MJ hitches mount to the sides of the rear frame, using the same mounting points as the bumper mounts.

No, it doesn't. I used to know how to make those -- I still have a couple lying around here, somewhere, I think, but it must be fifty years since I made one and I couldn't do one now from memory. For those who don't know what that is -- it's called a "Monkey's Fist."

Short answer: I don't know. Long answer: A lot has changed in twenty+ years. About twenty years ago I "helped" a friend get a book printed that her older brother had written but which didn't get published before he died. She had a friend who was (or claimed to be) a literary agent. The agent friend tried shopping the book and no major publisher was interested, so my friend and the brother's widow decided to self-publish it as a memorial to him. In those days, that meant printing out your own, camera-ready master copy and sending it to a vanity press printer. The printer would then print out however many copies you wanted -- but IIRC the minimum was 500 copies. So, after a ton of work and several thousand dollars, you ended up with a pile of cartons of books in your garage that you were then on your own to sell. Of course, neither my friend nor the widow knew how to do any of that -- so I did it all for them (except for paying for it). I didn't charge them anything for the time I put in, and it was extensive. I even designed the cover. I think it cost them $3,000 or $3,500 for 500 copies of the book, which they then gave to members of the family. But they did send two copies to the Library of Congress, so it's officially a book. Both the Kindle e-book version and the paperback version of my book were done through Amazon KDP (Kindle Direct Publisher). The print version is set up as print-on-demand, so it doesn't cost me anything up front, and I don't have to store cartons of books and try to market them. I submitted the book as a fully formatted PDF file (and a separate PDF of the cover). KDP takes the file and holds it. When someone buys a copy of the book, they print *a* copy of the book and send it to them. So I don't have copies of the book that I can send without paying Jeff Bezos' markup. I wish I did.

Backspace is the distance from the wheel mounting surface (where your wheel's center section actually contacts the brake rotor) to the inside flange of the wheel. For stock factory 15x7 XJ/MJ wheels, the backspacing is 5.25". Any more backspacing wouldn't allow the wheel to turn because the inside flange would be making contact with something. There are NO aftermarket wheel for the XJ or MJ that offer 5.25" backspacing. Most aftermarket wheels seem to run 4" to 4.5" backspacing. Don't confuse "backspacing" with "offset." They are not the same thing.

The XJ and MJ 4.0Ls in 1987 didn't have the ballast resistor. It was added for the 1988 model year to reduce the noise of the fuel pump. You can bypass it permanently without doing any harm.

More backspace? Or less?

Es mi nombre. I don't see much point in using a nomme de plume for a non-fiction book.

Compare that to the compressive strength of aluminum or brass ... or zamak

Yes. If you add a short section of flex pipe between the exhaust manifold and the front exhaust downpipe, it will relieve most of the stress on the manifold and should eliminate future cracking.

Huh? Whut? Steel isn't good in compression? Why is that what the frames of skyscrapers are made of?

No. Do NOT use junkyard sockets for parking/turn signal/brake lights. They will be the same type that already went bad on your truck. There's no way to know if sockets from the junkyard will be any better than what you have. The auto parts houses have a NEW replacement socket, for some Ford model, that's a perfect fit. This is a case where you really REALLY want to go new.

Project option #3 is the one I feel most interested in doing at the moment, but it's going to be a LOT of work. I have sent out inquiries to a couple of lawyers I know to ask if such a collection already exists. If it's been done, there's no point in reinventing the wheel. But I haven't found such a collection anywhere, and I think it could be valuable. I don't have kids young enough to be in school now (my adopted daughter is 26) but, from what I hear from frieds with kids in school today, the schools aren't teaching anything close to the truth about American history. Meanwhile, the paperback version of my book has come out on Amazon. Same link now takes you to both the e-book and the paperback. And it's also available in a Nook edition on Barnes & Noble.

That's a great camera. You got a helluva deal on that. What's this about Canons and dead batteries? I've been a Canon guy since I bought a Canon FT-QL (35mm) at the PX in Vietnam back in 1968. I haven't head about this dead battery issue.

That's not that bad. Most of the good self-defense ammo (brand name JHP) was over a buck a round in .45 ACP and getting up there for 9mm even before this latest crunch. For giggles, I just received an e-mail from J&G Sales. They are offering some Russian, steel-case .380ACP in FMJ (not JHP) for a special price: $69.95 per box of fifty. Yep, that's right -- $1.40 a round for crap ammo that most people would never allow in one of their guns.