Eagle

Under the hood -- is there a compressor mounted on top of the engine -- on the right-hand side, toward the front? On your heater control panel, what named positions can you put the air flow lever in?

A long time ago I think I posted a diagram showing why/how this results in a lift -- and how much. Lemme see if I can find it ...

Good point. I don't think I've ever encountered anyone who referred to an automatic transmission as a "4-speed."

Steering ratio on the manual boxes is SLOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWW

The 4.0 liter engine has never been available with a 4-speed transmission. Either it's a 5-speed, or it's not a 4-liter. And the Comanche has never had an 8-foot bed.

Exactly. Unfortunately, your goal should be to remain "average." You definitely don't want to be Private Pyle*, but you also don't want to volunteer for anything or in any way give the appearance that you are trying to stand out or suck up to the DIs (Drill Instructors). Actually, slightly better than average may be okay, but not stand-out. I have no idea how rank works in today's Army. I enlisted at the height of the Vietnam unpleasantness. I did well enough in Basic to make E2 upon graduation, and I did well enough in AIT to make E3 upon graduation. A lot of the guys didn't make E2 until they finished AIT. * You do know who Private Pyle, is, right? I'm not talking about Gomer Pyle, USMC. Fast forward to 02:50 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTQAXX08A-s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4eMhddTPg4

Or that.

Be sure to check your heater blower, and the resistor pack. Mice like to build nests in the blower, and if (when) the nest material builds up around the resistor pack it blows the thermal fuse.

I disagree on the flex plate. Been there, done that. A cracked flex plate sounds like a bad piston or a bad rod bearing when idling in neutral. Put the tranny in gear so the torque converter is loaded, and the noise goes away.

CPS wires touching exhaust manifold?

Ah, yeah -- it's what I do for a living. Which is how I know that every state in the country now uses some edition or other of the International Building Code and the International Residential Code. And garages as an extension of a residential occupancy fall under the Residential Code. I still want to know how a builder can "certify" construction plans.

Do you ever get down to the New Haven area?

How about not using all the abbreviations? I'm a veteran with a box full of medals, and orders for others that I am allowed to purchase on my own if I want to add them to the box. I know what the CIB and CAB are, but I've never heard of EFMB, ARTB, or RI. How about using English?

Legally, builders can't "certify" plans. Any building that is on a residential lot and that will be accessory to a one- or two-family residence is constructed under the International Residential Code, not the International Building Code (which is for everything else). I went through this recently with a building inspector friend who had a case where a woman was going to build an 80' x 200' riding arena and she claimed it was under the Residential Code. What kicked it over to the Building Code was that she was running a commercial horse breeding operation and riding school out of the property. I'm not saying that a private, residential outbuilding is exempt from codes or from inspections. The exception in the code is for structures smaller than 200 square feet. And zoning is a separate matter from building codes. What I'm questioning is this "certification" of plans. The laws of every state allow the owners of residential properties to draw their own plans. They do NOT require the plans to be drawn by an architect or an engineer, and an architect or an engineer cannot legally put his seal and signature on any plans he did not draw personally or that weren't drawn under his direct supervision. A builder can also draw up plans for a residential structure but he can't "certify" them -- at least, not beyond making a statement that "I certify that I drew these plans," which is a meaningless statement. His 5-year old daughter could draw the plans with a crayon and make the same certification.

The Renix models also have two diagnostic connectors on the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the shock tower. One of the connections in one of those connectors is a tach signal. If you have (or can borrow) an idle tach or an aftermarket tach, you can test with that to see if the tach signal is making it as far as the diagnostic port. If you haven't already done so, download the Renix electrical manual. You'll find full information on those two diagnostic connectors in that.

How do you have blueprints "certified"? Who certifies them? And why do they need to be certified at all? This is next to your house, right? So it gets built under the Residential Code, and doesn't need to be drawn, signed, or sealed by an architect or an engineer.

It's not too soon to start. Start doing pushups, pullups, and running IMMEDIATELY. I played multiple sports through college, and I thought I was in good shape when I enlisted. I was wrong.

Sounds completely normal to me.

Sounds right. Pete's comment about the booster may be the answer.

Good point. Often overlooked.

No, I want to know exactly how the OP (jeepmjga) bled his system. One person or two people? Suction bleeder? Pressure bleeder? Step-by-step procedure. If the brakes have been bled and there isn't a good peddle, something's wrong -- and it's usually in the way the brakes were bled.

How do you bleed?

Before you burn up any more irreplaceable tachometers, have you figured out why the one you had burned up?

Correct. And don't forget there was a "Tow Package," which included the hitch and wiring; and there was the "Tow Prep Package," which was the heavy duty cooling system and tranny cooler, but no hitch or trailer wiring.

The 4th digit for the AMC years is the engine type. I don't have a '91 or '92 FSM so I can't offer any wisdom for the HO years of the MJ, but I do have a '94 Jeep FSM. 1 - Country of manufacture (1=U.S.) 2 - Company make (J = Jeep) 3 - Vehicle Type 4 - GVWR 5 - Line (i.e. Cherokee 2WD, Cherokee 4WD, Wrangler) 6 - Series (i.e. Trim Level) 7 - Body 8 - Engine 9 - Check digit 10 - Model year 11 - Plant of manufacture 12 thru 17 - Serial number