Eagle

From personal experience, 31" tires with 3.73 gears is EXACTLY the same overall drive ratio as stock tires with 3.55 gearing. Personally, for the way you use the vehicle I probably wouldn't regear but, if you're going to do it, go to 4.10s. A Trac-Lok (the factory limited slip) is probably the cheapest limited slip you'll find. They're decent and more than adequate for the use you describe. Next step up is a TruTrac, which is a gear-driven limited slip. It doesn't require friction modifier, because it doesn't use clutches. Engagement is a bit more positive than a Trac-Lok. When buying parts -- buy two sets of carrier bearings. Take one set and hone out the ID enough that you can slide them onto and off the carrier by hand. Use those bearings for trial fitting the shims. Once you have the shim packs set correctly, then set aside the setup bearings and press on the other new set.

It's probably in that Blazer.

There are two types of flares -- the SAE double flare shown in the post above, and the "bubble" flare. MJs use the SAE double flare. The brake line layout on your truck isn't any different or more complicated than what's found on 90% of vehicles built since about 1960 (or whenever the industry changed to separate circuits for the front and rear wheels). Your brake system is not stock. The OEM Comanche system, with the rear height-sensing proportioning valve, trips up a lot of people who are new to MJs.

The story of your previous job isn't surprising. I don't know what the big universities are teaching in their business schools and management programs, but it seems like they've all decided for the rest of us that a high five and an "Attaboy!" is supposed to be better than a cost of living increase. Screw that mentality. Good for you for bailing out.

Here's a better photo -- I added labels.

No. Check again, when you get the truck back. You should have one hard line that runs to a termination above the rear axle. From there, there should be a single rubber hose that connects to a tee fitting mounted to the axle tube. From that tee fitting there's a hard line to each rear brake cylinder. You should not have separate lines from the proportioning valve to each rear wheel. Which is what you wrote. The proportioning valve should have two lines going into it (the two on top, from the master cylinder), and three coming out of it. Here's what it looks like inside: And remember, you have a TJ (or maybe an XJ or ZJ) proportioning valve. That's very different from the stock MJ front distribution block, which looks similar on the outside but which does NOT have any proportioning function.

They're pretty good, actually. I have two of them, for my older generators. They don't work on grass or gravel, though

There is no way to be sure without measuring. The 2-1/2" drums were an option on the Renix-era Dana 35 axle, so you need to verify.

Wait -- individual lines to each REAR wheel? That's definitely NOT right.

Why is that truck so bad it has to be parted out?

Matt, of Matt's Off Road Recovery. Skip to 0:45 for his words of wisdom on wheeling with XJs:

The steering stop stops the steering travel before the internal limits of the box are reached in order to prevent damage to the box. The simple answer is: when you hit the stops, don't try to turn any farther.

Your Jeep is 34 yours old and you live in the northeast. Don't mess around, just replace all the brake lines. I suggest cunifer, because it's much more resistant to corrosion as well as being easier to work with than steel.

What do you mean "crankover"? Cranking is when the starter motor is spinning the engine. If you want a faster crank speed, get a fancy, high-dollar starter motor. If you mean the engine actually starting, that's not "crankover," and if it starts within about 5 revolutions that's normal and there's no way to make it start sooner.

Well, that's a bit different. For anyone else, confronting thieves directly is risky business.

Normal

No, it would not have been cool if the guy (or guys) had come back. Much better to let the cops handle it.

There is (or used to be) a socket in the HELP! line that all the parts chains carry that's a perfect replacement. It's not listed for Jeeps, it's listed for some Ford vehicle. The problem is that you've lost the ground to the parking/turn lamps. They're trying to find a ground through the headlight circuit but, when you turn on the headlights, that can't work. You need new sockets.

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html Often on sale for $3.99 These are handy, too: https://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-low-voltage-multi-colored-test-leads-66717.html

No, the "reverse" pump is for the 2.5L and 4.0L engines with a serpentine belt. The water pump for the early 2.5Ls and the 4.2Ls has the same body and mounting pattern, but those engines used conventional V-belts and rotated in the opposite direction. Since the V-belt configuration goes back to the 1960s, it's considered the "forward" rotation, and the serpentine belt pump is reverse rotation.

The one thing I have ever found about which my grandfather was wrong was his advice to NOT use the parking brake in winter. His theory was that it could freeze in the on position. In reality, what usually causes the cables to seize up is lack of use. If the parking brake is used regularly, it should purge itself of any incipient corrosion on a daily basis. For Whitaker717: Both rear brakes act as parking brakes, There is a single cable from the foot peddle in the cab to a point roughly at the back of the cab. At that point there's a bracket called a "splitter," from which two cables run to the two rear wheels. Any one of the three cables might be frozen up -- or all three might be.

Yes, on the Renix system. The Chysler system reversed the polarity AND changed the resistance, from 0-88 to something like 100-5. If my idea works, the gauge won't be completely accurate (but they never are, anyway), but my hope was that it would at least swing in the correct direction.

I haven't tried it, but I sort of figured the easy solution would be to trace the printed circuit back to the header, then pull the two wires for the fuel gauge out of the connector and reverse their positions.

I don't understand. Are you saying that your '88 fuel gauge reads correctly in the '96 cluster, or does it read backwards?

I ran Cooper Discoverers (the originals, before they started adding alphabet codes after "Discoverer") on my '88 XJ for years. Now that I'm looking for tires for the 2000 XJ, I went to the Cooper website. In the Discoverer line-up, they offer NOTHING in the stock 225/75-15 size. Not the Evolution H/T, not the Discoverer ATR, not the AT3 4S, and not the SRX. They do offer the AT3 4S in 235/75-15, but that one wasn't my first or second choice. I'm disappointed. I know the trend is toward larger rim sizes, but it really feels like Cooper has abandoned us.