Eagle

Very rare.

I would keep it. You KNOW if you sell it you'll be looking for one sooner rather than later.

Both TJs are 1999. No programmed keys.

I good friend across town has a '99 Wrangler 4-cylinder that needs an engine. His step-son gave him a '99 Wrangler 4.0L. About the only solid items left on that one are the removable hardtop, and the engine. So the plan, which we started to implement tonight, is to swap the 4.0L into the TJ with the solid (mostly) body and frame. Question: How much of the wiring harness does he need to pull from the donor vehicle? We know he needs the engine harness and ECU, but he said he has read (on the Internet, that fount of infallible wisdom) that he also need to change the body harness. That doesn't sound right to me, but I don't know much about Wranglers. Haw anyone done this swap? What's involved? (Yes, we know he needs new frame brackets for the motor mounts.)

I disagree. The CPS can fail due to heat soaking and, once it cools down, it does come back to life (until it heats up again).

You can't use a 91+ CPS in a Renix system. They operate on a completely different operating theory. Completely aside from the connector, they are not electonically compatible. You need to get a CPS for a 1986 thru 1990 Jeep. (AFAIK, the 4-cyl and 6-cyl Renix engines used the same CPS.)

Jeep was still using resistor pack in 2000. I've done three of them in our two 2000 XJs, thanks to mouse nests.

My vote is the CPS. Could be either one.

A 1986 4-banger should have throttle body injection.

And you guys make fun of the guy who wants to use a carburetor and conventional distributor.

I lucked out. As of Saturday, the prediction was for landfall at New Haven, which would have taken the center of the storm right over me. Overnight the trajectory shifted east, with landfall at Westerly, RI (sorry, Muncher!). After having stocked up on fuel and test-run the generator ... nothing happened. I had some rain, but nothing torrential, and the winds weren't even gale force. All in all it was a giant nothingburger -- for which I am very grateful.

Agreed. The alternator capacity is not the most important question here.

That's taking "taking one for the team" too far. Get well soon.

He's correct about what? You wrote that you want to control two electric fans with the OEM wiring. The basic MJ doesn't even have an electric fan. Those that do have an electric fan, the electric fan is an auxiliary fan that doesn't turn on until the engine temperature starts to get too high. That's fine for the auxiliary fan, but that's not what I would want for controlling my primary cooling fans.

No, the XJ and the MJ are definitely NOT Glocks. Glocks helped usher in the polymer gun era. XJs and MJs are from the steel and wood era of mechanical design. More like the aforementioned M1911 and Browning Hi-Power.

It's not the speed that cause damage during break-in it's load. Drive it like there's an egg between your foot and the gas peddle. No jack rabbit starts or heavy acceleration.

To avoid possible issues with the transfer case input shaft not mating with the transmission, you should buy a transmission and transfer case together. You have a 2.5L, so you can't use a transmission from a 4.0L vehicle of any year, because the 4.0L has a different, larger bell housing bolt pattern. So you need a transmission and transfer case from a 2.5L Cherokee or Comanche, and you need the transfer case shifter and linage, plus the bezel for the center console.

My 2000 XJ 4.0L 5-speed is eating throttle position sensors. Bought new in 2000, one of the last of the 2000 model year. I replaced the throttle position sensor a little over a year ago, hoping to cure intermittent roughness. That didn't seem to fix it, so I replaced the idle air controller on March 24, at 53, 178 miles. Still didn't fix it, and it got progressively worse very quickly. I replaced the TPS again on June 21, at 53,728 miles. When I started it up to leave work today, it didn't start smoothly, it sort of coughed to life, running very roughly. The check engine light came on, and I could smell gas. It ran, but roughly, for the few miles from the office to the highway. Once on the highway, it seemed to smooth out. I hooked up a scanner when I got home and it threw a code P0123: TPS Sensor Circuit, High Input. What's going on here?

It's nothing but a mechanical timer. There are no sensors that trigger it -- it's a reminder to replace the O2 sensor.

Worse yet, Paragon closed years ago. That's where the North Atlantic Chapter of NAXJA used to hold our annual NACFest.

Dupli-Color spray chrome?

The rear fender flares are NOT the same as Cherokee flares -- the MJ rear wheel arch opening is both wider (longer) and higher than the XJ. I don't know of any aftermarket sources for the MJ flares, so junkyards and Jeep forums are where the action is for those.

It will if the washer is hardened, and properly sized for the bolt. When I bought the '88 Chief, the trackbar hole was badly wallowed out. My good friend, the VW guru, had a bag full of leftover parts from some VW factory service kit. In the bag of parts we found a double-thickness, hardened fender washer and a hardened nut and bolt the correct size and length for the track bar. He welded the washer onto the face of the factory bracket ... and that was that.

A dinky, mesh floor, open utility trailer from Tractor Supply will cost you a grand, and what have you got? A dinkly, open utility trailer from Tractor Supply. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/carry-on-trailer-5-ft-x-8-ft-open-mesh-floor-utility-trailer-5x8sp-gen If that thing were anywhere near me, it wouldn't still be for sale.

It won't really fit even with fabricating -- unless you cut the 23-gallon tank down to the size of the 18-gallon tank.