Eagle

The factory heavy duty cooling system used an external cooler in-line with the trans cooler circuit in the radiator.

FWIW, 3.73s with 31s works out to EXACTLY the same overall final drive ratio as 3.55s with stock tires.

It looks level to me. You don't need to raise the front at all, and certainly not 2 inches.

So you told him, "Because they're beautiful." And he went home and said, "Mom -- Daddy's gone off his rocker."

If you're comfortable doing board-level work, why not replace the resistor with a potentiometer so the tach can be used on either engine -- like the '87 and newer ones?

That's the way to convert them, but I don't have the specs on the resistor ratings.

That's probably a good way to handle it. For awhile, just before Sears folded their tent, instead of replacing broken ratchets with new product they were replacing them with rebuilt wrenches, and they weren't anywhere near the quality of new. I replaced one 3/8-drive ratchet and I don't think the new one was any better than the one it replaced.

Why is fuel injection an advantage? Right now, my 2000 XJ is eating throttle position sensors. I can't figure it out. The ONLY reason I haven't changed it over to a carburetor and a conventional ignition is that I have to wait three more years before it's exempt from emissions testing. I've drive probably about a million miles on carburetors. Yeah, when it runs right electronic fuel injection might be slightly more fuel efficient. On the other hand, my 1966 Rambler American got 28 MPG on the highway, and the only car I've owned since then that would beat it was a 1982 Honda 1300 FE. Which had a carburetor.

You haven't been around cars very long, have you? I grew up with AMC vehicles (starting with Hudsons, before it became AMC). "Back in the day," we didn't have overdrive. We had 3-speed manual transmissions. The usual gearing worked out to 24 miles-per-hour per 1,000 RPM. Do the math -- that's 2500 RPM at 60 MPH. An ever 3,000 RPM was a 72 MP cruise. My brother and sister-in-law had a Gremlin with the 258 c.i.d. in-line 6 and a three speed -- the forerunner of the Jeep 4.0L engine. They drove it for a couple of hundred thousand miles, then he sold it -- to an auto parts store that used it for parts delivery. When he finally lost track of it, it had over 300,000 miles on it, with no major engine work. Don't worry about overdrive.

Very rare.

I would keep it. You KNOW if you sell it you'll be looking for one sooner rather than later.

Both TJs are 1999. No programmed keys.

I good friend across town has a '99 Wrangler 4-cylinder that needs an engine. His step-son gave him a '99 Wrangler 4.0L. About the only solid items left on that one are the removable hardtop, and the engine. So the plan, which we started to implement tonight, is to swap the 4.0L into the TJ with the solid (mostly) body and frame. Question: How much of the wiring harness does he need to pull from the donor vehicle? We know he needs the engine harness and ECU, but he said he has read (on the Internet, that fount of infallible wisdom) that he also need to change the body harness. That doesn't sound right to me, but I don't know much about Wranglers. Haw anyone done this swap? What's involved? (Yes, we know he needs new frame brackets for the motor mounts.)

I disagree. The CPS can fail due to heat soaking and, once it cools down, it does come back to life (until it heats up again).

You can't use a 91+ CPS in a Renix system. They operate on a completely different operating theory. Completely aside from the connector, they are not electonically compatible. You need to get a CPS for a 1986 thru 1990 Jeep. (AFAIK, the 4-cyl and 6-cyl Renix engines used the same CPS.)

Jeep was still using resistor pack in 2000. I've done three of them in our two 2000 XJs, thanks to mouse nests.

My vote is the CPS. Could be either one.

A 1986 4-banger should have throttle body injection.

And you guys make fun of the guy who wants to use a carburetor and conventional distributor.

I lucked out. As of Saturday, the prediction was for landfall at New Haven, which would have taken the center of the storm right over me. Overnight the trajectory shifted east, with landfall at Westerly, RI (sorry, Muncher!). After having stocked up on fuel and test-run the generator ... nothing happened. I had some rain, but nothing torrential, and the winds weren't even gale force. All in all it was a giant nothingburger -- for which I am very grateful.

Agreed. The alternator capacity is not the most important question here.

That's taking "taking one for the team" too far. Get well soon.

He's correct about what? You wrote that you want to control two electric fans with the OEM wiring. The basic MJ doesn't even have an electric fan. Those that do have an electric fan, the electric fan is an auxiliary fan that doesn't turn on until the engine temperature starts to get too high. That's fine for the auxiliary fan, but that's not what I would want for controlling my primary cooling fans.

No, the XJ and the MJ are definitely NOT Glocks. Glocks helped usher in the polymer gun era. XJs and MJs are from the steel and wood era of mechanical design. More like the aforementioned M1911 and Browning Hi-Power.

It's not the speed that cause damage during break-in it's load. Drive it like there's an egg between your foot and the gas peddle. No jack rabbit starts or heavy acceleration.