Eagle

That's an AX-15. Which means it's not a 4-speed

A VIN digit for the tow package? I don't think so. It's on the build sheet, of course, but not in the VIN. VIN explanation from my 1988 Comanche FSM: 1 - Country of manufacture 2 - Company make (J = Jeep) 3 - Type (T = Truck) 4 - Engine type 5 - Trannsmission 6 & 7 - Series 8 - Trim package 9 - Check digit 10 - Model year 11 - Plant of manufacture 12 thru 17 - Serial number

Could be. I think we need better photos.

The AX-15 is a 5-speed. He said the mystery transmission is a 4-speed. That probably means it's a Muncie or a Borg-Warner. An AX-4 would be a 4-speed, but the bell housing for the AX-4 and AX-5 is for the small GM V6 block -- it won't bolt up to a 4.0L block. However, the late model AMC bell housing is the same as the 4.0L bell housing bolt pattern, and AMC used Borg-Warner 4-speeds, So that's my guess.

We were well trained in hurry up and wait. This was a case of wait and hurry up -- and oh never mind.

Not running. Doesn't matter. If I'm not going to have to head to Idaho within a month or six weeks, I don't have to get the trucks out of my yard instantly.

Well, that was quick. They gave me until April 1 (TWO whole days) to respond, after taking months to process the application. On April first I confirmed that I was still interested, and I started filling in the on-line forms for the "on boarding" process. The morning of April 2 I received an e-mail notifying me that the job offer was withdrawn due to lack of funds. That was Friday. Monday evening (April 5) I received a phone call from the department head, informing me that job offer is still on the table -- she thinks -- but there are some things to be straightened out on their end. I'm not going to hold my breath. Sheesh. China is poised to rule the world, and our Air Farce can't even process a simple job vacancy.

Motion activated lights. Game cameras if you can't afford an actual security camera system -- or both security cameras and game cameras. If a monitored alarm system isn't possible, Harbor Fright has stand-alone alarms that might at least make a thief decide it's time to unass the area of operations. https://www.harborfreight.com/wireless-driveway-alert-system-93068.html?_br_psugg_q=driveway+alarm

One thing to keep in mind: The early 231 transfer cases (and maybe the early 242s as well, but I don't remember) don't have a true neutral. What that means is that when the transfer case is in neutral, it's disconnected from the transmission, but the front and rear driveshafts are locked together. That's why you're supposed to remove the driveshafts when flat towing. I don't remember what year they changed it so the neutral in the transfer case was a true neutral -- I think it was around 1994, but it might have been 1996.

There's a Ford or Chevy shackle that's almost perfect. I don't have a part number but do your research.

Does this mean Matt is going to retire the yellow Cherokee?

To all of you who observe Easter, may you have a happy and blessed day.

Being basically a troglodyte, I'd be inclined to go back to basics. Do you need the interior speakers to operate at the same time as the exteriors, or will it be one or t'other? If it's either/or, it's simple. Each speaker has two wires. Two double-pole, double-throw toggle switches, one for each side.

I think you should go back for the rear window. If it's factory, the glass is curved, and there is NO aftermarket rear slider that fits like the factory unit. The "gasket" is only trim -- the unit is held in my a bead of adhesive, just like the windshield. Best way to remove is one of those "piano wire" windshield removal tools from NAPA. If the other taillight isn't actually brown, I'd get that, too. Remember -- they don't make them any more.

Off the top of my head, I'm going to say that's totally impossible.

As in negotiating a price. I'm not in a position to give them away.

If the clutch isn't chattering -- I don't see any sign of hot spots in the photos. I wouldn't even have it resurfaced -- I'd just go at it with a Scotch-Btite pad in an electric drill and clean it up.

Once again, life intervenes while I've been busy making plans. As some of you know, I'm in Connecticut. It appears that I may be taking a job at an Air Force base in ... Idaho. I have two MJs sitting here that aren't going to get any better if I just go away and leave them for more years, so I think it's time to find new adoptive parents for them. The problem is that neither of them runs at the moment. One is an '88 4-cylinder SporTruck, 4-speed, 2WD. The clutch slave or hose let go, so there's no clutch. Hasn't been started for several years. The other is the red '88 Chief, 4.0L, 5-speed, 4WD. Also hasn't run for awhile -- I had replaced the CPS, and I think the new one was faulty because in warm weather the truck would just die after 10 to 15 minutes of driving. If I let it sit for a half hour or so, it would fire right up and let me drive it home. I need to take some photos to post them in the classifieds but ... the AF seems to be in a rush to get this position filled so I want to sound out the potential interest. Is anyone interested in either (or both) of these trucks ... someone who can take it/them out of here sooner rather than later? Thanks.

I agree. Nothing whatsoever to worry about.

How bad is the wear? Those teeth really shouldn't wear much at all, so probably a previous owner hit the starter when the engine was running. If the starter hasn't been skipping on you, you can probably just clean up those teeth with a fine-tooth file and run it for another 100,000 miles or so. Can you post a photo of the worn teeth?

Don't lift it. An MJ at stock height on 30" or 31" tires is a VERY capable trail vehicle for up through moderate trails, and even some difficult trails. And lifts and huge tires do not make it better for daily driver duty -- they make it downright unpleasant.

Is that stuff synthetic or dino juice?

Really? Any idea why that changed it from the '84-'91 style?

WRONG!

Here's a hint -- I have two BA 10/5s out in the yard that are jammed in two gears at once. It happens, when the driver tries to yank the shift handle before the clutch has disengaged. What happens is that the bottom end of the shift handle gets out of alignment with the rods it's supposed to be pushing around. According to my friend, who was the service manager at the dealership where I bought my '88 XJ, it's usually possible to just remove the shift handle from the top, move the levers back into alignment, and then reinstall the shift handle. Usually they get stuck in first or second, and reverse. Since the vehicle obviously can't go in opposite directions at the same time, that's why it stalls when you let up on the clutch pedal.