Eagle

It's not too soon to start. Start doing pushups, pullups, and running IMMEDIATELY. I played multiple sports through college, and I thought I was in good shape when I enlisted. I was wrong.

Sounds completely normal to me.

Sounds right. Pete's comment about the booster may be the answer.

Good point. Often overlooked.

No, I want to know exactly how the OP (jeepmjga) bled his system. One person or two people? Suction bleeder? Pressure bleeder? Step-by-step procedure. If the brakes have been bled and there isn't a good peddle, something's wrong -- and it's usually in the way the brakes were bled.

How do you bleed?

Before you burn up any more irreplaceable tachometers, have you figured out why the one you had burned up?

Correct. And don't forget there was a "Tow Package," which included the hitch and wiring; and there was the "Tow Prep Package," which was the heavy duty cooling system and tranny cooler, but no hitch or trailer wiring.

The 4th digit for the AMC years is the engine type. I don't have a '91 or '92 FSM so I can't offer any wisdom for the HO years of the MJ, but I do have a '94 Jeep FSM. 1 - Country of manufacture (1=U.S.) 2 - Company make (J = Jeep) 3 - Vehicle Type 4 - GVWR 5 - Line (i.e. Cherokee 2WD, Cherokee 4WD, Wrangler) 6 - Series (i.e. Trim Level) 7 - Body 8 - Engine 9 - Check digit 10 - Model year 11 - Plant of manufacture 12 thru 17 - Serial number

That's an AX-15. Which means it's not a 4-speed

A VIN digit for the tow package? I don't think so. It's on the build sheet, of course, but not in the VIN. VIN explanation from my 1988 Comanche FSM: 1 - Country of manufacture 2 - Company make (J = Jeep) 3 - Type (T = Truck) 4 - Engine type 5 - Trannsmission 6 & 7 - Series 8 - Trim package 9 - Check digit 10 - Model year 11 - Plant of manufacture 12 thru 17 - Serial number

Could be. I think we need better photos.

The AX-15 is a 5-speed. He said the mystery transmission is a 4-speed. That probably means it's a Muncie or a Borg-Warner. An AX-4 would be a 4-speed, but the bell housing for the AX-4 and AX-5 is for the small GM V6 block -- it won't bolt up to a 4.0L block. However, the late model AMC bell housing is the same as the 4.0L bell housing bolt pattern, and AMC used Borg-Warner 4-speeds, So that's my guess.

We were well trained in hurry up and wait. This was a case of wait and hurry up -- and oh never mind.

Not running. Doesn't matter. If I'm not going to have to head to Idaho within a month or six weeks, I don't have to get the trucks out of my yard instantly.

Well, that was quick. They gave me until April 1 (TWO whole days) to respond, after taking months to process the application. On April first I confirmed that I was still interested, and I started filling in the on-line forms for the "on boarding" process. The morning of April 2 I received an e-mail notifying me that the job offer was withdrawn due to lack of funds. That was Friday. Monday evening (April 5) I received a phone call from the department head, informing me that job offer is still on the table -- she thinks -- but there are some things to be straightened out on their end. I'm not going to hold my breath. Sheesh. China is poised to rule the world, and our Air Farce can't even process a simple job vacancy.

Motion activated lights. Game cameras if you can't afford an actual security camera system -- or both security cameras and game cameras. If a monitored alarm system isn't possible, Harbor Fright has stand-alone alarms that might at least make a thief decide it's time to unass the area of operations. https://www.harborfreight.com/wireless-driveway-alert-system-93068.html?_br_psugg_q=driveway+alarm

One thing to keep in mind: The early 231 transfer cases (and maybe the early 242s as well, but I don't remember) don't have a true neutral. What that means is that when the transfer case is in neutral, it's disconnected from the transmission, but the front and rear driveshafts are locked together. That's why you're supposed to remove the driveshafts when flat towing. I don't remember what year they changed it so the neutral in the transfer case was a true neutral -- I think it was around 1994, but it might have been 1996.

There's a Ford or Chevy shackle that's almost perfect. I don't have a part number but do your research.

Does this mean Matt is going to retire the yellow Cherokee?

To all of you who observe Easter, may you have a happy and blessed day.

Being basically a troglodyte, I'd be inclined to go back to basics. Do you need the interior speakers to operate at the same time as the exteriors, or will it be one or t'other? If it's either/or, it's simple. Each speaker has two wires. Two double-pole, double-throw toggle switches, one for each side.

I think you should go back for the rear window. If it's factory, the glass is curved, and there is NO aftermarket rear slider that fits like the factory unit. The "gasket" is only trim -- the unit is held in my a bead of adhesive, just like the windshield. Best way to remove is one of those "piano wire" windshield removal tools from NAPA. If the other taillight isn't actually brown, I'd get that, too. Remember -- they don't make them any more.

Off the top of my head, I'm going to say that's totally impossible.

As in negotiating a price. I'm not in a position to give them away.