Eagle

There's only one fuse for the gauges so, if the other gauges work, the fuse is good. So the gauge isn't communicating with the sensor. That could mean a broken wire between the cluster and sensor, or it could mean a bad gauge. You will have to decide which. If you get power at the pigtail, it's probably a bad gauge. But ... why did you ground it with the multimeter? The test is to ground the pigtail directly to the chassis or engine block. Run the test again. Ignition in the RUN position. With the wire disconnected and not touching anything, the gauge should read cold. With the wire grounded, the gauge should swing all the way to the hot end of the scale.

The coolant temp sensor for the gauge is on the left (driiver's side) rear of the head, at the very rear corner of the engine. It has a single pigtail going to it. That's power, from the gauge -- the circuit grounds through the sensor. Step one: With the ignition ON, pull the wire off the sensor and see if you have 12 volts at the wire. Next -- the sensor is a variable resistor. With the ignition ON, when the wire is disconnected from the sensor and not touching anything, the gauge should rear cold. Then ground the wire directly to the engine block or any good ground. The gauge should read all the way to the hot side. If it fails that test, the gauge is bad. If the gauge is good, you probably need a new temperature sensor.

Problem number 1: That thing on the passenger side firewall is NOT an overflow tank. It's an expansion/surge tank, and it's part of the pressurized cooling system. If you spend much time on this site, you're going to see references to the "closed" and "open" cooling system. 'Open" systems have an overflow tank. The Cherokee and Comanche went to an open cooling system in (IIRC) 1991. Your '87 has a closed system -- that bottle on the firewall is supposed to be filled to the halfway level when cold -- no more, no less. You will also encounter references to "burping" the cooling system. The problem is that the expansion tank is higher than the engine. Any air in the system has to be purged to ensure that the system is filled to the proper level. This usually involves starting the engine with the cap (which is a pressure cap) loose. You allow the engine to idle until it heats up enough for coolant to start bubbling out of the expansion tank. Then you immediately shut it down and let it cool off. At some point, after a few minutes you'll see (and maybe hear) that coolant is being sucked out of the bottle into the engine. At that point, you add coolant to ensure that the lines to and from the tank never suck air. Once it cools down and stops sucking coolant -- fill it to the halfway mark and do it again. It usually takes about three cycles to get the air out. If you don't get the system burped, it WILL overheat.

And based on that, the BadDadFab is only a mount, it does not include the bumper. Thanks.

Is that a bumper with an integral winch mount, or is that just a hidden winch kit for use with a factory bumper?

Do you need to save the hub? If not, slice it with a cut-off wheel.

What's the problem? AFAIK an '86 distributor should fit a later engine. What year s the engine, and why doesn't it have a distributor?

You misunderstood. AX-4 or AX-5 refers to the transmission. The AX-4 is a 4-speed, the AX-5 is a 5-speed. They are identical except for the fifth gear. Both of then were available in 2 wheel drive and 4 wheel drive. The difference is that the 2WD versions have a tailshaft (output) housing that tapers down to allow the front yoke of the driveshaft to slide onto the output shaft. The 4WD transmissions don't have the tailshaft housing, they have a flange that the transfer case bolts to. The transfer case used with the AX-4 and AX-5 transmissions is an NP 231. But the spline count for the transfer case input shaft changed depending on the year and the transmission, so it's important to be certain that the transmission and transfer case work together. That's why it's better to buy them together.

Yes, they did -- but it was not the same transmission they used with the 4.0L. You need an AX-5 transmission and the matching transfer case. The 4.0L engine used a Peugeot BA 10/5 transmission in 1897 and 1988, and an AX-15 after that. Both are larger and use a bellhousing that does not bolt up to the 2.5L engine.

That does not look right. Is the bearing in there -- and the big washer? Is there a bearing race behind the outer bearing?

Duplicate threads merged

I would add 3/4" spacers and call it a day. That truck looks like it already has a lift, so I wouldn't want to go higher than absolutely necessary. That's a nice looking MJ, too.

Never mind. I'm working on a solution.

The "hood" of the Dakota transmission? Do you mean the bell housing? The 2.5L Dakota used an AX15 5-speed transmission. That transmission was used in the XJ and MJ behind the 4.0L engine beginning in 1989, and continuing through 1999. Jeep did not use that transmission with the 2.5L engine. A 1987 4.0L should have a BA 10/5 transmission. That requires a different bell housing. Since that transmission was never used by Jeep or Dodge behind the 2.5L engine, there is no bell housing that will work.

Agreed. IMHO your biggest decisions are whether you want it in a 20-inch or 16-inch barrel, and the caliber. The original, of course, is 5.56x45 (.223 Remington), but 7.62x39 is becoming popular, as is .300 Blackout.

I have a problem. I've finished a draft of a book chapter that discusses some thoughts on computer security. Nothing earth shattering, but trying to pull multiple ideas into one place. I included some screen shots that a friend in Greece sent me of the procedure to set files to hidden. But ... when I convert the Word document to ePUB format, the images disappear. (So do some images of B&W line art.) If there are any Mac users who would be willing to let me send them a copy of the chapter and then run through the steps and write them down in prose, I would be very grateful. If you're interested in taking a look at it, please send me a PM. Thanks.

Merry Christmas, Folks.

Cranking and "turning over" are the same thing. You mean it would turn over but not start. Plugging in the underhood light should not affect the engine. But ... it's a connection between the electrical system and the body (ground). Have you gone through all the tips relating to upgrading engine grounds in Cruiser54s checklist?

There's nowhere near enough room for stuff. I have enough XJ/MJ parts in my basement crawlspace and garages to fill a typical tiny house. Heck, my two roll-around tool chests would pretty well do it even without the parts. And I haven't even gotten to the carpentry tools, the plumbing tools, the electrical tools, the drill press, the lathe, the welder ... Tiny houses are for people who only live virtual lives. They're not for people who do any actual work, like with their hands.

Another one for the data banks: I contacted SSBC (Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation), another company that sells what appears to be the same adjustable proportioning valve. They sent me a copy of their instruction sheet.

https://www.amazon.com/Ball-Socket-Universal-Joints/b?node=16411991 Not sure what size might fit

Not when it's below freezing in the garage. I'm too old for that.

I had to look at that several times, too, because initially I thought he had reversed the water pump rotation.

This gets more and more curious. The instruction sheet for the same unit under the Summit Racing brand says that switch is for the brake warning light on the dashboard: https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-760250.pdf Summit sells what appears to be the same unit under the Leed name, and they also say the switch on that one is for the warning light. Jegs sells the same Leed unit and Jegs says the switch is for the brake lights. Jegs sells what appears to be the same unit under their own name, and the specs for that one also say the switch is for the brake lights. Lastly, Jegs sells another version of what appears to be the same thing under the RPC name. When I looked that one up on the RPC web site, they say the switch is for the brake lights. It appears that some vendors don't understand the products they're selling.

I'm very happy that your problem was easily solved, and now we all know a little more about another adjustable proportioning valve option. My comment about that switch being for the brake system warning light was based on what I read on the web site I found and provided a link to. So either that unit functions differently from the Summit unit, or (more likely) whoever wrote the copy for the web page didn't know what he/she was talking about. The instruction sheet you downloaded clearly says it can be used for the brake lights, and that it's NOT for the brake system warning light. This probably means that you don't have a functional brake system warning light. The light is still in the dash cluster and probably lights up when you turn on the ignition (that's set up that way to confirm that the bulb works), but it won't light up if you have a front or rear brake circuit failure. You'll know it anyway -- once you have a few miles behind you in the vehicle, if either circuit fails your foot will know something's wrong immediately.