Eagle

That does not look right. Is the bearing in there -- and the big washer? Is there a bearing race behind the outer bearing?

Duplicate threads merged

I would add 3/4" spacers and call it a day. That truck looks like it already has a lift, so I wouldn't want to go higher than absolutely necessary. That's a nice looking MJ, too.

Never mind. I'm working on a solution.

The "hood" of the Dakota transmission? Do you mean the bell housing? The 2.5L Dakota used an AX15 5-speed transmission. That transmission was used in the XJ and MJ behind the 4.0L engine beginning in 1989, and continuing through 1999. Jeep did not use that transmission with the 2.5L engine. A 1987 4.0L should have a BA 10/5 transmission. That requires a different bell housing. Since that transmission was never used by Jeep or Dodge behind the 2.5L engine, there is no bell housing that will work.

Agreed. IMHO your biggest decisions are whether you want it in a 20-inch or 16-inch barrel, and the caliber. The original, of course, is 5.56x45 (.223 Remington), but 7.62x39 is becoming popular, as is .300 Blackout.

I have a problem. I've finished a draft of a book chapter that discusses some thoughts on computer security. Nothing earth shattering, but trying to pull multiple ideas into one place. I included some screen shots that a friend in Greece sent me of the procedure to set files to hidden. But ... when I convert the Word document to ePUB format, the images disappear. (So do some images of B&W line art.) If there are any Mac users who would be willing to let me send them a copy of the chapter and then run through the steps and write them down in prose, I would be very grateful. If you're interested in taking a look at it, please send me a PM. Thanks.

Merry Christmas, Folks.

Cranking and "turning over" are the same thing. You mean it would turn over but not start. Plugging in the underhood light should not affect the engine. But ... it's a connection between the electrical system and the body (ground). Have you gone through all the tips relating to upgrading engine grounds in Cruiser54s checklist?

There's nowhere near enough room for stuff. I have enough XJ/MJ parts in my basement crawlspace and garages to fill a typical tiny house. Heck, my two roll-around tool chests would pretty well do it even without the parts. And I haven't even gotten to the carpentry tools, the plumbing tools, the electrical tools, the drill press, the lathe, the welder ... Tiny houses are for people who only live virtual lives. They're not for people who do any actual work, like with their hands.

Another one for the data banks: I contacted SSBC (Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation), another company that sells what appears to be the same adjustable proportioning valve. They sent me a copy of their instruction sheet.

https://www.amazon.com/Ball-Socket-Universal-Joints/b?node=16411991 Not sure what size might fit

Not when it's below freezing in the garage. I'm too old for that.

I had to look at that several times, too, because initially I thought he had reversed the water pump rotation.

This gets more and more curious. The instruction sheet for the same unit under the Summit Racing brand says that switch is for the brake warning light on the dashboard: https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-760250.pdf Summit sells what appears to be the same unit under the Leed name, and they also say the switch on that one is for the warning light. Jegs sells the same Leed unit and Jegs says the switch is for the brake lights. Jegs sells what appears to be the same unit under their own name, and the specs for that one also say the switch is for the brake lights. Lastly, Jegs sells another version of what appears to be the same thing under the RPC name. When I looked that one up on the RPC web site, they say the switch is for the brake lights. It appears that some vendors don't understand the products they're selling.

I'm very happy that your problem was easily solved, and now we all know a little more about another adjustable proportioning valve option. My comment about that switch being for the brake system warning light was based on what I read on the web site I found and provided a link to. So either that unit functions differently from the Summit unit, or (more likely) whoever wrote the copy for the web page didn't know what he/she was talking about. The instruction sheet you downloaded clearly says it can be used for the brake lights, and that it's NOT for the brake system warning light. This probably means that you don't have a functional brake system warning light. The light is still in the dash cluster and probably lights up when you turn on the ignition (that's set up that way to confirm that the bulb works), but it won't light up if you have a front or rear brake circuit failure. You'll know it anyway -- once you have a few miles behind you in the vehicle, if either circuit fails your foot will know something's wrong immediately.

The '86 XJ hulk I have out back has 3.73 gears. 2.8L auto.

^^^ Truth

My house (which I inherited) is probably around 1500 to 1700 square feet. I need less house, but more garage, shop, and storage space. But ... a tiny house? No thanks. I'd go nuts.

Quoted for truth.

I remember a few months ago watching a YooToob video about the "ultimate" tiny house. It was something like 8x8 or 10x10 feet, and the author/producer of the video was extolling it as the greatest thing since sliced bread. Except -- it was on a lot with another house. The tiny house had no water -- he ran a hose from the main house. It had no kitchen -- his "kitchen" was a plywood counter nailed onto one end of the tiny house with knee braces to hold it up. There was no bathroom -- IIRC, he used the hose for showers, outdoors, and he either used the bathroom in the main house (which was owned and occupied by someone else) when he needed to do number two, or he had a chemical toilet. I don't recall. Bottom line -- it wasn't a "house." It was a ramshackle bedroom, nothing more. It was also in southern California, so heat wasn't an issue.

One simple (partial) check is to park it on a flat, level surface (in a garage would be ideal, if you have one) with the wheels pointing straight ahead, and use a tape measure or even a length of wire to measure the distance between the front and rear hubs on both sides. IIRC, you can find the correct dimensions in the FSM. See if both sides are the same, and if they match the specifications.

Expect the '95 and '98 to be totally different from the '89.

Keep in mind that in the early days of the Cherokee and Comanche, the factory Hidden Winch option was a 5,000 or 6,000 pound winch. (Don't remember which brand.) IMHO an 8.000 pound winch is plenty for an MJ.

The evaporator goes in the box under the dash with the heater core, so this would be the time to install that even if you don't hook it up immediately. I don't know if the box is the same, so I'd suggest getting a donor XJ and taking everything (controls, vacuum lines, everything from that. But don't re-use the old evaporator -- it's worth dropping a few bucks to egt a new one to go along with the new heater core.