Eagle

But the coolant at the port will be 15 degrees cooler.

Could you make it by starting with a ball flare (like for newer brake lines) and then gradually flatten out the ball into that flange?

Slight correction: you will not need to "add" sensors, you will need to replace them. The coolant temp and oil pressure senders for the idiot lights are simple ON-OFF switches. The senders for gauges go in the same locations but they are variable resistance sensors.

It won't make any difference. The purpose of a thermostat is to keep the temperature UP, not down. If it idles at 215 with a 195 degree thermostat, it will idle at 215 with a 180 degree thermostat.

None. Undercoat traps moisture and promotes rust. Google up POR-15.

i respectfully submit that the thread should be nothing but a repository for drawings, or links to drawings. As soon as it's open to discussion the information will get buried in the noise. I've watched exactly that happen in a 1911 forum, in a thread that was supposed to be a repository of information about magazines. At this point ... good luck sifting through the detritus to find the data.

Looks boss to me.

Pete, I like the idea of creating a separate area specifically for drawings, templates, 3-D printer files, etc. If it's too much work to add a new area to the forum, what would you guys think about creating a new sticky thread at the top of this discussion area and using it only to post drawings (NO discussion, questions, etc. -- just drawings, or links to files)?

Absolutely. If it's running, drive it. Just keep in mind that when the 2.8L dies, the 3.4L (NOT 4.3L) is the easiest, simplest, and probably the most economical replacement. Just be sure you get a 3.4L out of a rear wheel drive vehicle.

Are you using 4.0L rods or 4.2L rods? Are the pistons custom designed to match up to the proper deck height to avoid excessively high compression ratio?

No, it's not really that bad ... it's much worse. The best/easiest swap is a GM 3.4L V6 out of a rear-wheel drive car like a Camaro or Firebird. It's the same basic block, but a MUCH improved engine.

What's "level 5" on your stove? My range is electric. Level 5 isn't "warm it up level," level 5 for me is full power, if you let the water boil out the pot melts hot.

No, he won't. Look at his first photo of the rear axle. They left the original spring perches on the axle. All he has to do is remove the u-bolts, move the axle back on top of the springs, and replace the u-bolts. The front has drop brackets, which will have to be removed. The track bar also has a drop bracket, so he'll need a factory bracket for the frame (driver''s side) end, and a stock track bar and stock control arms. And stock-length shock absorbers on both ends. Looks like the rear bump stops are completely gone. Those should be replaced, as well, although it can be driven without them. Just don't load it heavily.

Why? Do you do any type of off-road driving where you would need to use 2-wheel drive in low range? If not, save your money and just lock the front axle in the engaged position permanently. Jeeps with the Selec-Trak transfer case don't have the front axle disconnect, and the factory stopped using it with the Command-Trak transfer case around 1991. It will not hurt anything to drive in 2WD with the front axle engaged.

Remember that you were laid off, not fired. Construction workers in certain trades go through this on an annual basis. I'm hoping (and expecting) that they'll call you back when the emergency orders are lifted and people are allowed to circulate again.

115 miles on a dolly should be no problem but it's best to disconnect the drive shaft.

Yes, AMC used to sell complete bodies "in the white" (unpainted). For grins and giggles, some us in the Javelin/AMX Club sat down one weekend with a parts book and tried to figure out what it would cost to buy everything from the factory and build our own AMX. At the time, IIRC, you could buy a new AMX for around $5,000. The cost to buy all the parts came to around $25,000.

Which transfer case do you have? The '86 is different from all the other years of the MJ -- is there a vacuum switch on your console along with the 4WD lever?

I'm still getting daily calls from that company that wants me to "extend" the factory warranty on my vehicle. My newest is a 2000 Cherokee that was purchased in (IIRC) April of 2020, so it's 20 years old and has been out of warranty for 15 years. Wednesday they called FOUR times in one day.

It became axiomatic at NAXJA that "Friends don't let friends buy from Rusty's." I have seen Rusty's parts fail on trail rides. The tie rod end on my Rusty's adjustable track bar completely wore out in less than a year -- and that's with greasing it at every oil change. The factory track bar on my '88 Cherokee (which didn't have a grease fitting) lasted over 200,000 miles and 12 years, including several trail rides with NAXJA-NAC.

Cylinder walls "honed"? Not bored? Does this kit include pistons, or is it just a crank shaft? If you just put a 4.2L crank and rods into a 4.0L block, because of the difference in deck height you will have very high compression. To correct for that, IIRC, you will need special pistons. I think you would be better served to rebuild your engine as a 4.0L and, if you want a bit more power, just go for a bigger cam.

I don't have a photo and it's in a location that's not easy to take one, so I'll have to try a verbal description: Stand on the left side of the engine compartment. Manually manipulate the throttle. The "thingie" that snaps onto the throttle body arm is a steel rod, not the cable from the gas peddle. That rod points toward you, but it has a bend and it drops down (more or less out of sight) below the brake master cylinder and brake distribution block. Lean forward so you can follow it down. At the bottom end, it snaps onto a bellcrank (lever) that is attached to a pivot on the left side frame rail. The throttle cable from the gas peddle is attached to the other arm of this bellcrank. What I have experienced with mine is that years of exposure to salt and glop from winter driving caused the bellcrank pivot to partially seize up. Periodic shots of PB Blaster free it up and alleviate the fast idle problem. I have had to do this multiple times and it has always solved it for me. I've never had to deal with the IAC.

Ever hear of teleconferencing? Skype? I've been avoiding getting sucked into predictions about the aftermath of this, but one thing I expect (although I won't call it a "prediction") is that a lot of people and companies are going to have upped their game on telecommuting and teleconferencing, and the American workplace will look a lot different in six months or a year than it did before the SHTF.

No, the elitist in the example I cited was the selfish twit who thought taking his daughter to a school dance was more important than following the recommendations of the county health department -- recommendations that were made expressly to protect other people from people like him and his daughter. Recommendations become requirements when people don't follow the recommendations, and put other people at risk as a result. It's like the old saying in regard to the First Amendment: "Your right of free expression ends when your fist approaches my nose." No one has a right to put other people at risk by engaging in selfish (i.e. "It's my right to ___") behavior. Then there must be a lot of people in this country, and in this world, who don't have fully functioning brains, because there are a lot of people whose actions so far have forced the government to close things down. Obviously, you think that people can and should be trusted to do the right thing. I've been on this ball of rock long enough to know that people canNOT be trusted to do the right thing. They prove it every day. If you can't see that, then we'll just have to agree to disagree.