Eagle

Button? There is no button associated with the kickdown cable. It's in the engine compartment, attached to the throttle body. Your problem is not "RPMs sticking," your problem is that your transmission is in overdrive and it's not downshifting to third when it should. The first thing to look at for that problem is the kickdown cable adjustment.

https://www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-61433.html?_br_psugg_q=stud+welder

In the case of a massively communicable disease, "most" people complying is not enough. In China, they traced something like 30 cases to ONE man who rode a bus, then transferred to a second bus. He didn't even sit near people. They've reviewed surveillance tapes from the buses -- people who were infected were seated six feet and more away from him. There is nothing "elitist" about thinking that people (as a whole) can't be trusted when "people" prove it every day. Take Spring break in Florida. Hundreds of students went to Miami in spite of the coronavirus, and were partying on the beach as if there wasn't any problem. And you can't say, "Well, it's their own fault if they get sick." Yeah -- it is. The problem is how many other people are those students going to infect? How about that father who has two daughters? The older daughter came home from college with symptoms, the local health department told the family to self quarantine, but the younger daughter really REALLY wanted to attend the father/daughter dance at her ritzy prep school -- so they went to the dance. Then the county had to monitor a couple of hundred people instead of a family of four. Who's the elitist?

True, but I question even that. If one of the ten has the beer virus coming in, all ten might have it going out. Maybe it's because of the people I associate with, but I'm actually a bit pissed off that some people don't want to limit personal interactions. I talked to one of my high school classmates yesterday -- she's staying at home. A friend across town isn't a senior citizen and isn't in any of the high risk classifications, but he's keeping himself and his family buttoned in. The thing is, we (the United States) started all these precautions about a month too late. The better we control the ways it can spread, the sooner the pandemic will burn itself out and we can start trying to get life back to normal.

Took me awhile to find this. Not at all the same: https://comancheclub.com/topic/42952-dakota-taillights/ On the other hand, here's a post from a guy in Finland who says he made them work. Unfortunately, his photo links are dead. https://comancheclub.com/topic/42525-dakota-tail-lights/

Reality check: I think it's admirable that he wants to get a J truck, but he is NOT going to find one that's running and rust-free for anything close to his budget.

Not all the Renix tachs were adjustable. Don't forget, the '86 2.5L is a Renix. The adjustable tachs are the ones in the "Type 2" clusters. The Type 1 clusters did not have the potentiometer.

Do your research. Then do more research. I failed to do step 2, and bought one that wasn't worth the price of admission. Controls were wonky, instructions were virtually non-existent, and it had an internal short (or loose) circuit. One thing I figured out, after buying one that didn't have GPS, was that for insurance protection (which was the whole point of wanting a dash cam), you want one that includes in the display the date, time, your speed (keep that right foot under control when recording1), and GPS coordinates. Many of the better ones have those features, but not all of them.

Is it really 30 seconds? Have you timed it? We're trying to help you diagnose by remote control here. If we're going to help, we need accurate information, not hyperbole. Is it really 30 seconds, or does it just feel like 30 seconds?

Could you clarify what you mean by "hard starting"? According to your signature, you have an '88. Are you aware that ALL the Renix vehicles require a comparatively long crank time while the ECU figures out where everything is? According to my fuzzy way of understanding it, the Renix ECU has no memory. Unlike later years, the Renix ECU doesn't "learn" anything and then store it so it can be ready to rock-n-roll at the next start. It has to begin from scratch, each and every time you start the engine. That requires several full revolutions and a few seconds to happen.

Pumping the gas peddle does NOTHING with fuel injection. That was something we did back in the days of carburetors -- pumping the skinny peddle activated a thingie inside the carb called the accelerator pump, which shot a heavy squirt of gas into the venturi.

Common problem. Your truck is a Renix, correct? Idle Air Controller (IAC) needs cleasning, and/or the throttle bellcrank on the left side frame ear (below the master cylinder) needs a shot of PB Blaster.

Unfortunately, from an insurance perspective it's not worth fixing it. Two (or three?) years back I had a fairly minor fender bender in the 2000 XJ. No frame damage. Right front fender, radiator, bumper, header. I don't think the grille was touched. Repair estimate from the shop my insurance company recommends was $4,800 ... and the blue book on the 2000 Cherokee Sport at that time was about $4,500. They didn't care that it was in showroom condition and had less than 40,000 miles on it. They went by book value, not by "aficionado" value. In the end, the shop worked with me and lowered the estimate a tad (I had used them before, so they were willing to be a tiny bit accommodating) and the adjuster for the company appreciated my situation with the vehicle and he tweaked his valuation a bit, and it got repaired without a salvage title. But it was VERY close. I think Jeep Driver is being kind with a guess of $8,000 to repair your MJ -- it could easily run more than that, and the insurance company is going to go by straight book value. For a 30-year old Comanche, that's probably about $500. A salvage (or repair) title is a title. If you don't plan on selling the vehicle -- who cares? You can still register it and drive it. If you decide to sell, a salvage/repair title will bother buyers who don't know anything about cars, but those people aren't the people who will be buying a 30 (or 40) year-old Comanche. People who would look at an old Comanche will either now enough to evaluate the vehicle and not the piece of paper, or they'll bring a friend who knows what he's looking at.

What was the backlash on the original setup, before you took it apart? And since you don't have pics of the original setup, we don't have a baseline. Remember, you are not setting up a new set of gears, you're replacing a carrier. Your gears have a wear pattern on them and that's why I and others advised you to carefully check and record what you started with, because the most important thing is to get it back to the same pattern of engagement that you had originally.

Maybe contact Mr. I Make A New One and see what he can do for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVkbYlQfNqE

Connecticut. According to the CDC map we currently have 6 to 10 confirmed cases. The NBC News map shows 11. Earlier this week things were normal in the supermarkets. Today was a totally different story. NO toilet paper, NO bottled water, very little paper towels or facial tissue. NO antibacterial cleaning supplies. The bread aisle had been picked pretty much clean, and frozen hamburgers were mostly gone. Ditto frozen veggies. The state government has closed the capitol building. Public hearings that were scheduled for this week have been postponed indefinitely. I hold a license from the state that requires in-service training. I was able to attend a class on Wednesday evening but classes for the next two weeks have been postponed indefinitely, and they'll re-evaluate additional postponements/cancellations when we get near the end of this two-week period. A friend is an IT manager for a big hospital. The hospital has told all personnel who aren't directly, physically required to be on site to stay home and to work from home. My friend said they're looking at activating 7,000 additional people on their internal network. The IT office is in an office building miles from the actual hospital, but the IT team is staying home and telecommuting anyway. I was supposed to attend the funeral for the father of a friend on Friday. The funeral was in New York state -- right in the heart of one of New York's clusters of confirmed cases. Considering that I'm 76 years old, have a history of pneumonia, and a year ago I was hospitalized with a collapsed lung as a result of the flu, I had to call my friend and explain that I just didn't feel safe going to the funeral. He said he understood -- I hope he does. I felt terrible about not going but I didn't think it was worth the risk. Most schools in the county (and probably around the state, but I don't know that) closed as of Friday -- some for two weeks, most indefinitely. The State school board has adjusted their minimum school days requirement to call for a minimum of 180 days IF it can be accomplished before the end of June, otherwise the 180 days will be waived for this year. Maps (updated regularly): https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/cases-in-us.html https://www.nbcnews.com/health/health-news/coronavirus-u-s-map-where-virus-has-been-confirmed-across-n1124546

That basically suggests that it's probably for a block bored .020" over stock. A stroker built with no overbore would work out to 4.54 liters. At .020: overbore it's 4.58 liters, .040" overbore is 4.63 liters, and .060" overbore is 4.68 liters. But a .040" overbore also rounds to 4.6L ... and that doesn't tell you if it's using the 4.2 rods or the beefier 4.0L rods with special pistons.

Here's a 25-foot coil that includes fittings and 8 feet of gravel guard: https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Nickel-Tubing-Armor-Fittings/dp/B015VCZN80/ref=pd_sbs_263_6/144-6295306-0210151?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B015VCZN80&pd_rd_r=db8842e7-801e-4b1e-a1b8-b6a3b1bea602&pd_rd_w=pvl0c&pd_rd_wg=c7EM5&pf_rd_p=7cd8f929-4345-4bf2-a554-7d7588b3dd5f&pf_rd_r=YY42BZ51WM3H9KJZJEWG&psc=1&refRID=YY42BZ51WM3H9KJZJEWG

No? Oops -- my bad.

Considering that nothing appears to be broken, bent, or out of place, I would really like an explanation of exactly what's wrong or broken, other than "It's thrashed." Different master cylinders have different throw lengths. My guess is that they didn't get the correct master cylinder ... or they didn't install it correctly. Not being able to get it in gear could be as simple as needing to bleed it. Hydraulic clutches can be a bear to bleed properly.

I've never heard it called NiCop. Around here everyone calls it CuNiFer (Cu is copper, Ni is nickel, and Fer is iron) To do a really pro job with either the cunifer or with auto parts mart steel lines when you buy the 25-foot coils, spend a few bucks to buy a tubing straightener as well as a good bender and a good flaring tool. The cunifer is softer than steel lines and you can do an "okay" job just bending it by hand, but for making the job look professional the straight runs should be ... well ... straight. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brake+line+tubing+straightener&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Doesn't the Chinese Cherokee have third row seating? I know they raised the back part of the roof for some reason ...

Neither of the above statements is an absolute truism. Much depends on how the engine will be used. People build strokers to get more "power," but the reality is that the 4.0L engine was always more of a torque engine than a high-RPM horsepower engine. A general rule is that engines with a stroke that's longer than the bore are better for low-RPM torque, while engines whose bore is greater than the stroke (so-called "over-square" engines) are more suited to revving faster and producing high-end horsepower at the expense of low-end torque. The 4.0L is basically just slightly an "over-squared" engine. The stock bore is 3.88" and the stock stroke is 3.41". Even so, with the cam grind and timing selected by the factory, it builds torque quickly at low RPM and it runs out of steam above 4,000 or 4,500 RPM. The 4.2L engine, which is where the strokers get their crankshafts, were true long-stroke engines. The bore was 3.75" and the stroke was 3.90". My family owned a few of them over the years. They were good engines, but they were not high-revving engines. Put the 4.2L crank in a 4.0L engine with a .020 overbore and you get a bore of 3.90" and a stroke of 3.90". So it doesn't get into "over-squared" territory -- it's a balanced square. It makes for a good combination of torque and horsepower, but whether or not you "need" a bigger throttle body and/or a bigger exhaust depends completely on how it will be driven. A 4.0L engine displaces 244 cubic inches and theoretically flows 353 CFM at 5,000 RPM. A 4.6L stroker displaces 281 cubic inches and flows theoretically 407 CFM at 5,000 RPM. That's not a lot of CFM ... and how much of the time is anyone going to be driving any Jeep at 5,000 RPM? I know -- from my own first-hand experience -- that increasing the exhaust behind a stock 4.0L from 2-1/4" to 2-1/2" reduces low-end torque and drops the gas mileage about 2 to 3 MPG. The increase in flow with a stroker is only 15%. That's the equivalent of accelerating from 3,000 RPM to 3,450 RPM. Does that really need a bigger exhaust and a bigger throttle body?

I don't see anything broken in that photo. I think the problem is your mechanic.