Eagle

Fronts are the same. Rear Comanche wheel wells are much larger than Cherokee wheel wells, both in length and height. The only way to use Cherokee rear flares on an MJ is to get multiples for each side, cut 'em apart, and splice 'em together.

They have both already been updated to Windows 10. And I know they aren't worth much, so I will probably donate them. They work, so it goes against the grain to just toss them in the trash. I'll probably do what I have done in the past -- go through the pastor at my church and let him find some family that needs a computer and can't afford one. With schools looking more and more at remote learning, there are sure to be some families that can use them. I know how to prep them for donation. I erase my data, then run a DoD wipe utility to ensure that my deleted files can't be recovered. My concern is salvaging my license for Office 2013.

I have a couple of old notebook computers that are surplus. I've been hanging onto them mostly for sentimental reasons (one was my late wife's last computer, s it's one more tie to her memory -- not that I need one). I may be relocating, so it's time (actually well past time) to start cleaning out unneeded and unused "stuff." The oldest of these notebooks has a licensed copy of Microsoft Office Pro 2013 on it. I'm not going to let that go -- I'd like to transfer it to one of the newer notebooks or the Surface tablet. How do I do that? I believe Office 2013 was the first version where Microsoft hides the application key so key finder software doesn't work. I'll sell or donate the computer with Libre Office on it, so there will be a full office suite -- just not my MS Office license. Without an activation key, how do I install the program on a different computer? Related question: I'm pretty much a recluse and I don't like having strangers come to my house. In the past, when I have sold notebook computers I've met the buyer at a mutually convenient McDonald's where the buyer could fire it up and use McD's free WiFi to try out the computer. Thanks to COVID-19, we can't do that. Is it worth trying to find some other way to sell these things, or should I just give them away? Both are Toshiba Satellites. The oldest dates to the end of XP -- it has a sticker on it that says Windows Vista, but it shipped with XP installed from Toshiba. The other is also a Toshiba Satellite, and I think that one dates to around the end of Vista/start of Windows 7. Both have been upgraded to Windows 10 and have had additional RAM installed.

Just saw this. Congratulations on your retirement, and good call. You are 100% correct -- it's just getting too crazy out there, and too may politicians don't support the good cops, but they don't do anything about the bad cops that create the problems. For the officers, it's a no-win situation. The two guys who run the gun shop a few miles from home are both retired LEOs. Great guys, and both are very happy to be out of that line of work. Same with my friend in Washington state.

I don't know what you're reading but it's not the link I gave you. I quoted Goodrich directly: You can safely put 235s on your 6-inch rims. Addressing Pete's comment about exceeding the recommendations: Yes, we do often exceed them. It's not a good idea. When you put a wide tire on a narrow rim, the rim pulls the sidewalls in. That pulls the tread shoulders up, so instead of being flat to the road it's curved, with good pavement contact only toward the center of the tread. This hurts tread life (the center of the tread wears out long before the shoulders), and it reduces traction because you're not effectively using the full width of the tread. So we compromise by lowering the tire pressure to get the shoulders back on the pavement. Once you exceed the safe rim range, to do this you have to drop the pressure too low, which results in the tires overheating at high speed or in hot weather. That's exactly what happened with the Ford Explorers a few years ago when their tires were exploding. Ford blamed it in Firestone's tires but the reality is Ford reduced the tire pressure below what Firestone said was safe, because Ford wanted a softer ride. The result was tires overheating on the highway with disastrous results. Bottom line: You can go to 235s and be within the safe range. A 235 is about the same diameter as a 30x9.50. Personally, I think that's too much for a 2.5L 4-speed. I don't think you'll enjoy driving it. I think you'll be happier with a 215 or maybe a 225 if you really want the tire to fill the opening a bit more. Going to a more squared-off, blockier tread will do a lot to make it look more like a Jeep and less like a passenger vehicle. I would get the LT-rated tires rather than P-rated. The tread will be tougher, and the sidewalls will be stronger.

That's a rare situation. When it happens, all that's needed to make it lock up is a light touch on the brakes.

I have to disagree. I own three Cherokees with the factory TracLok (clutch type) limited slip, and I owned several pony cars with clutch type limited slips before the Cherokees. I put a TrueTrac in my '88 MJ and there's no comparison. The TrueTrac is quieter, and engages much more securely and firmly.

That's what I thought. And that limits your options on tire sizes pretty significantly. We can get away with running up to 31x10.50-15 tires on the 7-inch factory rims, but it's actually pushing the envelope a bit. The 6-inch rims won't safely take tires that big. Check out specs from BF Goodrich, for example (scroll down, then click on a tire size for detailed specs): https://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tires/all-terrain/all-terrain-t-a-ko2.html The recommended rim with for a 31x10.50-15 is 8.50". The safe rim width range is 7.00" to 9.00". Your wheels are wide enough. The recommended rim with for a 30x9.50-15 is 7.50". The safe rim width range is 6.50" to 8.50". Getting closer, but not there yet. Drop down to a 235/75-15 and the recommended rim width is 6.50" with a safe rim width range of 6.00" to 7.00". So that's the largest tire you should put on your wheels. A 215/75-15 has a recommended rim width of 6.00" and an acceptable rim width range of 5.50" to 7.00". That's a better fit for a 4-cylinder 4-speed because it will fit the power band of that engine and transmission better. The All-Terrain T/A KO2 has a pretty aggressive tread with wide shoulders, so I think it will look right at home on your truck, and you won't take as big a hit on performance (or on your wallet).

Between the 2.5-liter 4-speed and the lack of power steering, IMHO it would be an unhappy experience to jump into large tires and a lift. Keep it simple. You can fit up to 31x10.50-15 tires on the stock rims and not have interference with the fenders or flares, but the tires will rub the lower control arms on tight turns. Even 30x9.50-15s are likely to rub the LCAs, but not as badly. So the largest you can go without sacrificing something is 235/75-15. But that's still three sizes larger than what you're on now. There WILL be a power loss (or, more accurately, a performance loss because you're effectively losing final drive ratio). My recommendation would be to look at 225/75-15 tires and find one that has an off-road-ish tread -- probably an all-terrain tire, rather than an all-season passenger car tire. Which wheels do you have? My guess is that a 2.5L 4-speed with manual steering is going to have the 6-inch steel wheels, and that's another reason not to get into larger tires.

The Renix-era keyless entry is an infrared based system, so the key fob has to have a clear line of sight to the receiver in the vehicle. The newer ones, like in my 2000 XJ, are RFID technology, so line of sight isn't required.

??? How else would you bleed the system other than using the bleeder? That's what it's there for.

Did you reinstall the original ignition switch from your old column, or did you use the switch that was on the "new" column?

1990 is the last year for the Renix.

How the heck did the tech change the rear wheel toe and thrust angles? And in adjusting the caster angle, did he use the proper shims, or just rely on torquing the bolts to locate the control arms?

Thanks for making me feel my age. I'm old enough to remember the days when a zero to 60 time of 10 seconds flat was considered to be FAST! That was once sort of the automotive equivalent of a 4-minute mile.

^^^ This. Just swap the axles. I would much rather just swap axles than get involved in swapping an engine, tranny and transfer case -- especially since the engine swap will also require a complete wiring harness swap.

Rustoleum red is pretty close to Colorado Red. The problem is that ALL reds fade badly and quickly when exposed to sunlight. But if you use a Rustoleum paint for your spray, the Rustoleum rattle cans will be a good match and cost a lot less than automotive touch-up.

What's wrong with the crank in the "new" engine you just bought? Why not just use the crank that came in it?

Given the description of the proposed use, I wouldn't spend the money on high-dollar automotive paint. You can't match it from a rattle can -- unless you have the paint store make up a custom rattle can (at $50 a pop). Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and pick a Rustoleum color you like. Find one that comes in cans that you acn spray, and that's also available in rattle cans for future touch-up.

I loathe and detest the bar clamp style flaring tools. I've been using a different type of mechanical double flare tool for more than 50 years and it always works. For some reason, the manufacturer discontinued that model and now sells a bar clamp type.

The basic requirements for an internal combustion engine are fuel, air, and spark. If it runs when you pour gas into the throttle body, you obviously have air and spark, so your problem is fuel delivery. If the injector (single -- there's only one injector on a 1989 2.5L) is squirting gas, there are a couple of possibilities: 1. Not enough gas 2. Too much has 3. The gas has been in the tank tto long and it's stale.

Scanning to PDF is generally a first step. Unless you have a program (app) that edits PDFs, you can't do anything with the PDF. And even full Adobe Acrobat isn't great for really editing text -- it's better only for making minor corrections for things like typos. As Fiatslug mentioned, there are on-line OCR sites. I prefer to work on my computer, and there are also any number of free OCR programs that run under Windows. There are probably some for Apple iOS, too, but I don't know anything about those.I've been using a Windows program cleverly named "Free OCR." It's not perfect, but it's about as good as a commercial OCR program I used a few years ago at work. As was mentioned, the quality of OCR output is heavily dependent on the quality and clarity of the scan you're trying to convert. https://www.simpleocr.com/download/ Here's one from the Microsoft Store (with links to others at the bottom): https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/a9t9-free-ocr-software/9nblgggz5nsn?activetab=pivot:overviewtab A couple of months ago I tried out four different (Android) cell phone apps for scanning documents into [purportedly] usable documents. All were highly rated in reviews. Two failed completely, and I tried them on a Samsung Eclipse J3, a ZTE something, and a Samsung Galaxy tablet. The other two succeeded in scanning the document, but the resulting scan was poor quality and not editable. In the end I gave up and deleted all four apps from all the devices.

I agree. My first thought was "Buy the bed!" Get the rear window, too. It's not a factory slider, but it is a proper window for an MJ.

Best bet is that it won't ...

YJ, I believe. Although TJ yokes may be the same. They aren't "marginally" longer -- they're about an inch longer, IIRC .