What is the most important tip you'd share with MJ owners?

[Caish]

Got a Four Oh replace the OEM motor mount blocks in the block. 

I've broke mine out wheeling before. Engine fell over to one side and meant a long ride on the end of a strap out of the woods..... 

I used 3/8" grade 8 bolts.... 
IF you ever break them off its a real PITA to drill the old ones out. 

[jeeptec1]

Most important tip check out cruiser54 website especially if you have a Renix powered MJ.


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[mac9x]

Great thread .. thanks for making

[Comanchejess]

On 1/20/2009 at 9:39 PM, Akula69 said:

#1 - Always check the body grounds first when strange electrical problems start appearing.

 

#2 - If it won't start check the CPS (crankshaft position sensor) first.

My brilliant plan is to simply remove most, if not all electronics, because I've been chasing gremlins since I got my MJ.

[cruiser54]

Let us know how simple that is........

 

Have you visited my website and completed tips 1 through 5 yet? 

 

ww.cruiser54.com

[Muncher]

Always check your lug nut torque specs chances are it's your wheel wobbling around and not your engine knocking 

[treowx]

Thanks for all the tips. I have a lot to learn once we finally find the perfect MJ!

[fiatslug87]

2 hours ago, treowx said:

Thanks for all the tips. I have a lot to learn once we finally find the perfect MJ!

You'll probably never find the perfect MJ, you'll have to build it.  This is also a tip. 

[treowx]

45 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said:

You'll probably never find the perfect MJ, you'll have to build it.  This is also a tip. 

If everything works out will have one that’s almost perfect for us haha. 

[elliottio]

And most likely once you have one that's "perfect" you'll get bored and move on to the next project ;P

[Pete M]

1 hour ago, elliottio said:

And most likely once you have one that's "perfect" you'll get bored and move on to the next project ;P

 

that's why it's important to have multiple MJs   

 

[MiNi Beast]

47 minutes ago, Pete M said:

 

that's why it's important to have multiple MJs   

 

[HellFighter55]

On 10/20/2021 at 5:50 PM, MiNi Beast said:

This is why I own 7 Different Jeeps. 
1969 Jeep J10 Gladiator [Commander] 

1986 Jeep Comanche 4x4 <- Current Project
1991 Jeep C[hero]kee Sport 4x4 [Tonto] <- Dad's Jeep

1994 Jeep C[hero]kee Country 4x4 <- [A.P.S.E] Deceased Brother's Jeep
1995 Jeep C[hero]kee Sport 4x4 [Gypsy Danger]

1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 [Geronimo] DD

2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 [Wife's] 2nd Project 

[JGR]

Avoid a large amount of electrical headaches by regroundind all the wires located behind the left rear tail light. There are several grounds that have been screwed tio the quarter panel instead of the frame.

[jeeptec1]

If you have a 4.7 don’t over heat it. Maintain your cooling system!


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[motownXJdad]

lol, if you can buy one thats rust free. rust repair and good paint work are the most expensive repairs or modifications you can do. also stay away from bedliner on body panels, its really really hard to remove and its usually hiding rust.

[Manche1]

Research, research, research.  Don't impulse buy parts to fix a problem you don't know how to solve.  There is a ton of really useful info here.  Take time to read through it.

[AbreedApart89South]

Comancheclub.com 

[White_Comanche]

Using a HEAT GUN on various MJ projects has helped me out tremendously. Anything from disconnecting electrical connectors to softening up vacuum hoses before going over a nipple. Especially connectors. Nothing pisses me off more than breaking a plastic tab!

 

A recent project that got extensive use was removing my wiper motor for refreshing. I used the heat gun to warm up the posts the wiper arms connect to. They popped right off with little fuss. Also used heat again to soften up and remove hardened grease in the motor gear housing. Another job that was made much easier was targeting the plastic wiper arm bushings. With heat, the old bushing came off easier, and the new ones installed in a snap.

[dbjpnut]

avoid the 2.8 liter

[ExpatMJGuy]

After 2 years of MJ ownership here's what I have found out!

 

Even if you owned 4 XJs from mid 90's up you still don't know crap about an MJ!!!  Start there and assume nothing!

 

If you find a cheap truck for spare parts, if you have a 88+ model year truck many of the parts off a 86 or 87 model year truck are incompatible.  What you can actually use will be limited.  You will end up with second jeep with many parts that are of no use to you.  If you have the 86 or 87 and consider reviving that truck with newer parts it will be problematic.  Ask me how I know.

 

Never buy a truck in the dark.  Even if it is an opportunity friend of friend word of mouth smoking deal.  Even if you only plan to use it for parts.  Especially if he says bring a trailer tonight and you can have it for a deal of X price!  You won't notice many things until you see it in daylight or even worse when you pull it into your shop.  again, ask me how I know.

 

The 86 and 87 use a NP207 transfer case not the NP231.

 

An AX-15 and AX-5 look a lot a like.  Especially in the dark.  Use a magnet to check the casing to find out.  

 

AX-5 are used on 4cyl and 2.8v6 engines.  Peugeot's BA-10 and the AX-15 are used on the 4.0.

 

Learn about CAD axles from earlier models.  As a matter of fact when considering a 4wd swap and acquiring spare parts learn about all front axles and how they pair to rear axles.  Don't assume same year and model it will go!  Keep this in mind when considering another truck for spare parts.  Again ask me how I know... As a matter of fact here!

 

Learn how to make or change wiring connectors.  Many connectors change after the Chrysler buyout of AMC.  I haven't experienced it but rumor has it plugs change again on many things for later High Output engine years.  Example the wiper motor.  It's easier to find newer plug motors and change the harness over to the newer harness than try to find a matching old connector.  Keep a note of what you did if you need to change the part later.

 

Any part continuing from the back of the driver and passenger door going back are rare so keep a hold of it.

 

If you go on vacation and have time.  Scour the FB Marketplace for Jeep parts.  In a different market some parts can be more plentiful and cheaper.  Ex:  I'm from Georgia.  People come down here, horde our rust free parts, take them other places, then keep them in garages, barns, basements and stuff.  Meanwhile it gets harder for us to find parts and when we do find them they are more expensive.  I went up to Wisconsin to visit inlaws and MAN there were good, cheap, rust free parts coming out of the woodwork!  Guy in Kenosha hooked me up with a massive loot haul dirt cheap including a decent straight tailgate for $150 bucks!!

 

Start learning how to weld and fabricate now.  It will save you time money and dependance on other people.  IF you don't know how to fabricate and are learning like myself.  There are many good people here on this forum that will be willing to teach you.  Many will do it in person if you live close enough.  Weld beads on rotors after brake jobs for practice if nothing else.  I went to automotive school and quickly learned I'm good at diagnosing and changing parts but SUCK at anything fabrication wise.  It's just not needed on new cars in the service department and if it is seldomly needed it just goes to the body shop.  I'm still not great at fabrication but my knowledge is coming along.  If you have a rust free vehicle maybe by the time you need a floor pan you will actually be a proficient welder.

 

LAST be prepared to loose money from mistakes!  Dear god knows I have!  Unfortunately this is sometimes how we have to learn!  You will never learn everything you need to know to prevent mistakes from forums or YouTube.  If you can't handle that then owning a classic car isn't for you!  But after you recover from those mistakes and it's behind you there is a real sense of accomplishment!

 

I know it's a lot but I hope it helps someone!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[L8Night]

Pull those side louvers and check your rubber vent flaps. If those flaps are staying open you're just inviting moisture into your MJ. If you're not sure where to purchase these you can check on eBay sellers under zimmdakindustries and you'll find factory style replacements that will keep the moisture gremlins out! These are easy to replace and a leading issue with leaks.

[Gojira94]

Ignition coil resistance test and specs:

 

Primary winding test is ohms resistance between the bottom 2 round posts.

Secondary winding test is ohms resistance between either bottom round post and coil output (top).

 

 

87-90 2.5l and 4.0l both use the same coil (and ICM, btw). The 1990 FSM, on p.8D-17 states:

primary should be 0.4 - 0.8 ohms

secondary should be 2500 - 4000 ohms.

 

On an auto-ranging digital multimeter like my Fluke 87, secondary will read as 2.5 - 4.0 k (thousand) ohms. Non auto-ranging meters will need to be set to k ohms range for secondary, 0 - 40/ 0 - 400 ohms for primary.

My coil in the pic above tested 0.9 - 1.0 ohms primary, 5.68 k ohms secondary, too much in both windings (NFG).

 

Testing the ICM is difficult without the factory DRB II. About all you can do is verify reference 5V ECU voltage going to it, and its ground. If I find more helpful info on testing the ICM, I'll update this post.