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what did you do to your MJ today?


JeepcoMJ

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I washed the manche today. I also installed a bad a$$ skull and cross bones rear view mirror, applied some belt dressing to quiet the horrific squeaking from the belt, and I went to the junk yard and got a speedo cable, armrest and knob for the window crank. Its been a busy day!

 

Yesterday, I sanded down some of the rust spots on the hood and body and painted them with primer. As well as painted the rear bumper the same color as iron I-beams....it looks killer jamminz.gif

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Put 12" concrete blocks in front of the front wheels, had my daughter get in, start it and put it in gear. I then crawled underneath to look at the drive shaft yoke and transfer case while she slowly pushed the gas deeper and deeper. Engine/transmission/transfer case move forward with the drive shaft. Drive shaft is 2" away from bottoming out.

 

So new theory:

Slip yoke is out far enough to have enough play that under load and with the steep tube angle it can jam itself with enough friction to not want to slide into the transfer case more. Trying by hand the yoke has about 1/32" of play.

 

So possible solutions:

1 - Chain engine to make it impossible to slide forward. This may or may nor cause problems out back.

2 - Put together a set of leaf packs with less lift (I'm currently sitting at about 8" in the back). May or may not work.

3 - Shim the sping perches to move the pinion angle up. Should give a bit more engagement in return for possible vibes.

4 - Longer yoke off Ebay.

5 - Longer drive shaft

6 - SYE and new drive shaft.

 

I think I'm going to go with 1 and possibly 3 as a temporary band aid until I have the funds to do 6. Most expensive solution, but probably the best, with added benefits.

 

So what drive shaft would be a good candidate to start out with as a base to use with SYE and an 8.25"?

 

What are the thoughts on agricultural PTO drive shafts? They seem to be popular with guys building demo derby cars and trucks.

 

Edit: more tech than pub, so will post over there as well. Please do not reply here.

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Brought home another one :doh:

 

Time to start thinning the herd :shake:

 

Would have had a 2nd one also, but the guy didn't like my offer on the rust bucket he had :fs1:

 

And don't ask.........I lost count :hmm:

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tore into the dash and panels to try and get the wiring harness out...... :fs1: pain in the ars.... moving along slow and steady though like an hour a night if I'm lucky... I'm going to try to finish it on wednesday....its my day off then and its going to be in the low 70's jamminz.gif :cheers: 8)

 

Wish me luck :help: :shake: Fun learning I must admit :???: image_209027.gifimage_209027.gif :banana:

 

TTFN folks :dunce:

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tore into the dash and panels to try and get the wiring harness out...... :fs1: pain in the ars.... moving along slow and steady though like an hour a night if I'm lucky... I'm going to try to finish it on wednesday....its my day off then and its going to be in the low 70's jamminz.gif :cheers: 8)

 

Wish me luck :help: :shake: Fun learning I must admit :???: image_209027.gifimage_209027.gif :banana:

 

TTFN folks :dunce:

 

 

you need to take the entire dash out to remove the wiring. there is no other way.

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I may have blown my t-case, or at least the double cardan on the front driveshaft. it kind of doesn't like to move without making lots of noise.

 

 

on the same note...I dropped off the rear driveshaft to be retubed today. the dust shields fell out of the cardan, so he needs to rebuild the cardan. he's also giving me longer slip so I have more up and down slip with the thing, and he's retubing it to .138 wall tube so roughly twice the thickness of the old tube.

 

 

maybe next time I won't break the shaft... :wall:

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Found a local store that sells Spicer u joints and has a bunch of 5-760x's in stock. Got one installed in the new driver side shaft, having a bit of a problem getting old joint out of passenger shaft: 2 caps are so badly rust welded onto the cross I can not break them loose even with 3 feet of leverage on the end of the axle. Currently soaking in PB Blaster. If they still won't come loose tomorrow I'll let the whole thing soak in a tub of transmission fluid for a few days.

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Are you using a bench vise to press them out? I've never had a problem with them even when rust welded with enough leverage on a bench vice handle.

 

 

exactly. it's really a 2 man job though

 

take a hammer, and a bench vice (even a couple blocks of wood will work) and tap the caps in (immediately removing the retaining clip on each one) with the back of a heavy ball-pin hammer pressed against the cap, and swinging with another heavy hammer onto the flat end.

 

 

go thorugh them and do that, then wedge the ears between the blocks, and hammer against the base side of the shaft (not the thinnest part which wraps around the bearing caps, but the other side of the bearing cap where it is meetier) to knock them out.

 

never fails me *shrug*

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I had the clips off, and had the one cap completely out of the knuckle. But it wouldn't come off the cross. Clamped the cap in the vice, rotated the axkle until the cross was up against, then tried to rotate the axle more, forcing the cross to come with it. I could not budge it. Either the cap twisted out of the vice, or (with the vice tightened down more) I was hanging feet of the ground and still not breaking loose. 3 foot axle shaft x 200 pounds is 600 foot pounds of torque and not breaking loose.

 

I then tapped the cap back in and through to pop the other side out of the ear, same problem.

 

I got them out now, though. Cut the seals off and sprayed PB Blaster in there repeatedly and tapping with a hammer. Joint is out, can of PB Blaster is about empty. I have removed 4 u joints from Jeep axle shafts before, and never had this problem. Usually the problem is the caps not wanting to come out of the knuckle very easily.

 

It's bedtime now.

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