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I used the XJ shock mounts, with the bolt cut off, and relocated to the side. I also used the XJ spring plats and U bolts. I am also running the "long" shock for a 95 1/2 ton F-150 4wd. Valving is about right, plus, you get to mount the shock bracket where you need it, instead of where the shock dictates. Yeah, I know the axle is a 35, but it hasn't given me any trouble over the 8 years that I have owned this MJ.

Well, you can do it 2 ways. 1) Go to a partshouse and orde/ask for the Help brand kit, 82560. It is an "O"ring pack that services GM, Jeep, and Chrysler. 2) Go to the Dealership parts counter and sk for pt# 53007563AB. It is the threaded "insert" to change to the late oil filter. And Yes, you can swap to the late adpater, if you want to.

You can try to find a 2WD Xploder in the wrecking yard. That's what I go the flange off of. The U-joint is a 1310, and the drive shaft needed to be shortened about 2", the slipyoke swapped for a Jeep/GM, and then it went right into place on my MJ. I kept the flange from the D/S to 8.8", in case I ever needed it or found a person that wanted to swap in an 8.8". I say this because I will not use that overpriced, piepan thick diff covered, leaky spline mother. ever. Even in my V8 Ranger or BroncoII.

Yeah, the coulmn will interchange. If you want to have the interval wipers, then you need the little black box that goes in between the plug from the column and the plug heading to the firewall (it is supposed to be stuck on the velcro patch under the kneeboard, but is usually just hanging by the connectors). If you don't use the little box, then simply plug the 2 harness ends together, and the wipers will function as noraml, excpet that you need to turnthe knob past the interval spot for the hi-lo function.

AAAGGGGHHHH!!!! A Dodge Colt! Run away!!!!! Seriously though, you do have to give some props to whoever figured out a "more flow efficent" set-up than the factory one. But on a Colt? That's like trying to put a bigger airvalve on a blow-up doll.

I got the seals for my 242 from the local partshouses, all Timken seals, the little plastic pieces that go on the shift forks I had to get from the dealership, and the chain I got from a local Transmission rebuilder shop. I know that you can also get the front output bearings, including the the one that goes in the back half of the case from the local houses, as I had to replace them last year. Hope this helps you some.

Well, that makes sense to a certain degree. I have been thinking back in time, and I don't remember seeing them in use in Sicily, but then again, I don't remember seeing alot of "European" things while I was there: Swedish women in the nightclubs, braided armpit hair :eek: :ack: (Thank God for that!!!!), and a few others.

2 questions, real quick: 1) Why would someone want "city lights"? Are they actually like DRLs', or what? Not being smart, just don't understand what "city lights" are for. :hmm: 2) What did you find the rings listed under, as I could see me wantinga set for an upcoming project.

PM sent for the "windshield" one and one of the forest green.

That, and the washer fluid bottle from the 97 and up XJ. You can also steal the disc setup from a ZJ with ABS (Dana 35 only, for some idiot reason :hmm: ) and it bolts on to a Chrys. 8 1/4. Fab a couple of small brackets to hold the rubber hoses at the calipers, and away you go! Oh, I forgot: WJ knuckles for MUCHO bigger and better brakes- Aki-bonehead, er, bono 4 piston calipers,other wise twin piston and either is freakin huge compared to the stocker on our rides, true Hi-steer and true crossover steering, too. You just need the JKS spacers for your hubs, and disc from a late model TJ for the brake upgrade. :yes:

While NoOx is not a replacement for the gasket, I did tell him how I replaced the gasket on my MJ, and how I have prevented corrosion of the contacts in the plug. His game now.

That's the stuff. My friend gets it in small "tubs" about the size of a potato salad tub. One tub will lasts for several years, for an auto enthusist. I use it for all the electrical connections in my vehicles. I have had no trouble in years, including the fusebox on my 5 speed XJ.

I had a Thrush "Redhed" glasspak on my XJ for less than a yeay before it burned out and the inner tube (baffle) broke loose on each end. It sounded okay, but after it died, my XJ sounded like a tractor, literally. We have videos where you can hear it, and it sounds like a damn farmtractor, right down to the rrrRRRRR when you hit the gas. On a good note, it did hold up to getting abused quite heavily and often on the trails and rocks. :yes: My MJ is running a Thrush "Turbo style" muffler, and it sounds nice, and is not overly loud, either, even after several offroad trips.

Mine used to have a white "foam" gasket around the part that comes through from the inside. Now, it has a gasket made from a trashed "neoprene" seatcover that I found in the junkyard. I also went ahead and cleaned the connector on both sides, and reapplied some "NoOx" to them. The NoOx I got from a friend who does telecom work. It waterproofs and corrosion proofs at the same time.

You have to squeeze the 2 little "fingers" in and then the white piece slides off of the speedo. To re-connect, just push the piece back onto the speedo.

You pull the boot off of the tranny tunnel, and then remove the 3 bolts holding the shifter on.

I agree that the $85 ticket IS excessive, but well, you are ealing with a high traffic area, I would say. Hopefully, the clerks' office can help on the fine being lowered? Yeah, I know about the "time" marks, too. I have ACTUALLY had one of the meterwhores mark my tire before I even shut the engine off. I looked at her long enough to get her name and badge number then told her "Wrong. THIS one isn't staying." I then went on down the block to another spot, and helped my wife out of the truck so that she could go to work. A parked vehicle is one thing, but another thing when the vehicle has literarally just pulled in to the spot, and the driver HAS NOT EVEN HAD A CHANCE TO GET OUT. Freakin' change jockeys. Piss on 'em. Oh, and calling the "station" is no help either, as the response was pretty much " you pulled into the spot, therefore you were parked." Never mind that I hadn't even had a chance to shut down the engine, let alone get out to feed the meter. IF I had gotten the chance, then yes, I would have fed the meter so don't even start the "Boo-hoo, you were going to break the law" crap. But instead I went farther down the street, for the "more direct" exit from the truck, instead of walking with my wife.

Sorry to hear about the idiots and your dashboard. Taking the dashboard out is not really that hard, just time consuming. You have to remove the trim piece at the base of the windshield, disconnect the wiringharness at the firewall, drop/remove the steering coulmn, remove the 8mm bolts at the top of the pad, under the trim strip, which is held down with Phillipshead screws, and then "roll" the dash to you after you loosen the 15mm bolts on each side, under the dash. Disconnect the vacumn and cables setup for the HVAC system. The dash shuold now be ready to remove.

Hey, long time, no see. :waving: Glad to see that you are still around. The Imp is very nice. What year is it, by chance? A friend of mines' brother has a '69 Imp fo-do, as George calls it, and it is pretty nice too. That deep mudhole, man, I wouldn't even THINK about that one, now that I see roughly how deep it is. When do you guys think that you might make it over here again? There is a TON of stuff to show you yet, and I will have some more pics come this Sunday from the "monthly" ride. Places with names like "Devils Brew", "Moonshine", "Jacobs' Ladder" and a few others, hopefully. See you around, guys.

Ya left out the throttle cable, tranny kickdown cable if is an auto, and the EGR tube. The MJ in question is an 87 model, and is Renix injected. The Renix models used an EGR setup that has a tube running from the bottom of the intake down to the exhaust manifold. The Chryco stuff doesn't use EGR.

Do you allredy know "how" to post pix for a thread? same thing. If not, find yourself an online picture host ( I use photobucket, since I don't use a computer too well, and it is easy to use) and follow there instructions. When you start your thread/ reply, then all you have to do is copy/paste the picture from the host, and insert it into your post.

I have seen ALOT of the red tops brought back over the last couple of years, so I am going to say that they are not what they used to be, as far as being a great, reliable and worthwhile expenditure. Now, my orange top has finally died, but it was over 12 years old and I only gave $5 for it in a junkyard. I would buy one of those again, but NOT at the asking price they are now!!! $ 289 !!!!!! F that. Just for you doubters/ BS callers.

:fs1: THAT is NOT good news. One of the things that the article has NOT discussed, and we all know how the Media is bought, er, biased, to report what the Gov't. wants you to know, is the HOW of this affecting people on fixed income/very low income. I mean, honestly, think about what you are looking at having happen, most likely: some one with an income like above trades in their payed for car, gets a new car because of the "voucher" credit towards the car. Then, the insurance rates go up, because, now, the new car is going to cost more to insure, plus the $$$ every month to make the new car payment. Miss the payemnts enough, and now, NO MORE NEW CAR, or older payed for car, either. I fall into this catergory ( MAN, I HATE "classifications"), and I cannot afford a new vehicle, plus I DO NOT WANT THE FREAKIN' PILES that are being foisted on us as "Jeeps", let alone 4x4s'. My '88 XJ is getting 24 MPG on the Interstate at 70, and the MJ is getting around 18-19, so the only thing that I can see as a "problem" is that I am driving something that DOES NOT need to be taken to a shop to be worked on by a "licensed" mech, nor can it be tracked with the freakin' OBD system, shutdown by some LEO with the right equipment, or other wise messed with by someone. OH, yeah. We, mostly Cali, need to get rid of Diane Fingerstain, and the rest of her ilk. Control happy W&%#$ ( Pelosi also).

For the time being, I am running the C/V style of one lead/ one follow, as the brackets are setup for it. Later, I "might" fiddle with a twin "follow" setup.

The booster from the 95 XJ already HAS the spacer plate on it, and I simply stuck the brakelight switch up where the hole for the cruise control switch is in the pedal bracket. As for the difference in the brakes lines at the master, I used the ones from the donor, and re-flared, since I have a flaring kit, and don't feel like having to hunt down "special" anythings for my projects. The reason that I used the brakes froma 1996 and later Crown Vic. (C/V), is that the retaining bolt pattern on the backing plate is smaller than the Exploder axle ( NO redrilling of the plates or flanges on the axletube). I cut the "spacer off of the drum brake plate, and then bolted the C/V brakes on to hte D44 that I kept when I junked my XJ. Oh, and on the Exploder axle... around here Piss on it! I am NOT paying that kind of $$$ ( $750) for an axle that has a few issues out of the box to start with, including an overrated "swapablity". NO wheel spacers for the XJ/MJ D44, really good aftermarket support and a negligible strength difference between the 2 axles. That, no fricken "C clips" to deal with- IF I need to replace a shaft, or work on a wheel bearing, I simply unbolt the axleshaft from the housing, instead of having to open the diff. and screw with the "c" clip, an oil change, plus re-sealing the housing.