ren

Well. I tried to peel everything back so that I could get the pic, but my seats have side bolsters on them and they DO NOT want to move without the foam tearing apart. I did manage to see somewhat, and the ends of the frame at the hinge area are squashed flat, then held together with a rivet. as for the actual rachet and pawl for the tilt, I couldn't see anything, as it is mounted on the outside of the foam, which is wanting to tear. I tried.

Oh, sorry :doh: . You are asking about the hinge area where the upper and lower cushions meet, then? I'll have a pic. up in a couple of minutes, as I am currently tearing down the MJ and XJ seats for the sliding tilt mech. Be right back.....( going to garage to take pic of pivot/hinge area)

I just went and looked at/took pix of the setup, and I saw rivets holding the floor brackets on, and the rest of the frame bolted together. This is on a XJ seat that I am going to be changing over to my MJ in the AM. I'll post up later on the actual tear down, if you'd like.

RE and JKS have install kits for the front axles.

Message sent.

Went wheeling yesterday. :banana: There are a few pix over in the Wheeling forum.

Realize that there ARE going to be moments when you need to back off, and cool down before you tackle it again. Don't be afraid to take breaks or ask some else to give it a shot. Take your time.

The only "highway" around here would be what you use to get here. Once you hit the dirt, you are on blacktop for less than 4 miles. period. As for the quad, they are allowed, as long as you are cool about it (No hotdogging/stupid stuff). Your "project" would welcome to run, by all means, but there are going to be areas where it might be a little tall, due to the trees. I went wheeling today again, so here are some more pix. of the area. This not the "good stuff" yet, as my MJ still needs some traction action in some places... :grrrr:. Anyways, I've got more but I need to put them in a different thread, I think.

I have some info for the late model nose swap: The harness for the at least 88 model only needed the 3 wires for the front marker/turn signals spliced in. You do have to dig into the late style harness a little ways until you find the wiring "junction" from the factory, and then cut it BELOW the soldered splice. Now jsut splice it into your original harness, after you verify the correct wiring connection BEFORE you crimp/solder. Oh, and don't forget to cap off the extra "hot" wire on each side that you will end up with. Look at the "pass.side" pic, and you can see what I mean. Other than this, it was pretty much a "bolt on" over a couple of hours. :thumbsup:

Either leave the nameplate dead, may it RIP, or bring it back and MAKE IT REAL: NO IFS, NO stupid minivan sourced engine, and NO Liberty nose. Ugh. :fs1:

There should be three holes in the bumper to mount the cap on to. The 2 on the top/bottom use a tab on the endcap to mount on the bumper, and a hole in the face of the bumper for the stud in the endcap.

I had to go with "all of the above" as my wife liked to shot me when I took her Sebring wheeling cause my stuff was broken.

Hmm, let's see... went wheeling for around 7 hours :banana: , got stuck once, got some flex shots so that I can see where/what to bumpstop, played in the mud, rock crawled, trail rode, creek stomped, and then whacked the cab right next to the door striker pin on the drivers' side ( tree root ) and then tweaked the back bumper when I backed up after whacking the cab because of the big rock that I didn't see hiding under the water. :grrrr: and overall, had a most outstanding day! :cheers: I will post the pix when they come in.

It is a brown see through box with gears in it, attached to the knee board that makes up the bottom of the dash. It is on the backside of the 'board between the steering column and the ashtray.

On a Bronco II On a Jeep Cherokee Same wheels. I had to steal them from my XJ because my BII needed new shoes and the factory steelies WERE NOT gonna cut it.

The plastic is more of a splash shield than an actual skid ( don't believe me, then try and use it for askid....crunch :fs1: :rant: ). I use strips from old bike inner tubes for the wear strips on my tanks under the straps. They are about the right width, and most kids that I know have blown a few. Why did you "have" to remove the plastic pieces to drop the tank? Not enough room under the MJ, or what? I haven't had to remove the pieces to drop a tank except on the XJ, since it covers the straps.

Sending units use electricty to measure the fuel level in the tank, wether or not the engine is injected or carbed.

I'm actually closer to eastern KY, but anyway, the wheeling around here is very similar to the WVa area near Wheeling/Ashland: hills, mud, creek crossings, sand, overall a pretty good variety of things. Oh, and rocks, if that's your thing. Give me a little bit, and I will get some pictures up. And Saturdays are a really good choice for over here. If you look on the map, you would take I-64 West to the Mt. Sterling area, which is about 90 miles from the Ky/Wva border, and from there it about 20 miles to the first contact with dirt ( or about 1 1/2 miles from my driveway! :banana: ). Here are some teaser pics... Ther is ALOT more to do around here, including stuff that has made the major mags. As far as when, well, that is not actually set yet, as I started this thread as a "who is interested" thing, but around here we turnout just about every weekend, so just holler when you want to go... Oh, and if you do want to campout, no permits needed :clapping:. There are also several small hotels and cabin rentals around the area. The out of area travel is starting to pickup, as alot of folks come from out of state to spend several days out here.

Look in to the brake hose from mid-90s' Dodge van. It is stupid long, and the connections are right.

Yep, and remember that the 84-86 Cherokee was available like that, too.

That's odd. I go the one for my MJ off of a 95 model. STEEL, with full baffle, just like the later models. I pulled one from a 98 that was STEEL also.

J.C. Whitney has them as a kit. 'Course, I just go to the wrecking yard, and pull them from a late model XJ. Even the window seals work, if you don't mind cutting them down, and the door seals are thicker, so the door seals much better, with ALOT less wind noise, and water intrusion.

Good point. The 87 and up 4.2 in the Wrongler used a plastic cover, with a couple of brackets that bolted on and were used to hold a BUNCH of non-needed crap. That might be where the plastic cover came from. It might be all that the PO of the engine could find to work on this motor...So, I would be wondering what lead to the swap?

Okay, the metal strip looks like this: Apperently, I have managed to lose the rubber strip :huh???: , but you can see how it is supposed to fit.

Ok, I left out the part about the auto tranny spline counts. IF the 4cyl. motor has the 3 speed auto, then it is a 23 spline, as the Mopar Torqueflite series NEVER used a 21 spline output. EVER. Now, if the 4 cyl. has the 4sp auto, it can go either way, depending on the year of manufacture. On the manaul trannies, I know that the 4.0 changed in mid 90 to the 23 spline form the 21, as I had a 90 XJ 2 door that was built with the 21 spline AX-15, which was apperently only around for afew months for some reason. I found out about this the fun way, when I had to rebuild the X-case, and the new gear set was the wrong spline count. :grrrr: