james750

Looking to buy white header panel. Mine got crunched an few weeks ago while wheeling. I don't need the headlight trim or turn signal trim. Just need the fiberglass panel and the metal trim piece fitted across the top of the headlights/grill.

That hose is there to bring warm air up from by the header while the engine is warming up. If you look inside the air box intake there is a butterfly valve in there that closes when its cold to bring air in through that hole, and it opens when the engine is warm to draw in colder air from behind the front grill. Without a hose leading to the air box, the butterfly valve won't open and air will not be drawn in from behind the grill, this creates an intake restriction that can in theory hinder engine performance.

I just bought a set of the MT springs from Hell Creek last week. They are awesome springs, The CC discount is nice too.

Sweet, I guess I'll order up some M/T springs then. Thanks!

Right now I am running SOA with a 2'' AAL. The truck sits at a decent height right now with about 6.5'' front and 8'' rear. I was down changing the centering pin in the left rear leaf spring tonight and found out that one of the springs in the pack is broken. I think I am going to replace both sides with some fresh springs. The only stock height springs I am finding are the Metric Ton springs from Hell Creek. Could I add my 2'' add a leaf to these springs and maintain a good ride quality/lift height?

I called the Police when I was living in Utah a few months back and locked the keys in my car. After about an hour about 5 highway patrolman on bikes rode up and had it unlocked in 10 seconds, for free.

I tore out the carpet in the MJ this weekend to remove the surface rust from the floor boards now that i have my water leak fixed. My problem now is that the factory underlayment that layed underneath my factory rubber floor is deteriorated and mildewed. Does anyone know where I can get a good replacement underlayment?

We were talking about input shaft compatibility relating to the tcase, not the speed sender. Weren't the speedo gears for an electronic speedo a different length than the mechanical ones? For some reason I thought that the electronic speedo's used a short speedo gear and the mechanical speedo's used a long gear.

Yeah, but the short length 23 spline input was only behind the AX15, and the 242 was only offered behind the AW4 (which has a long length 23 spline) as far as I know. (http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np ... _gears.htm) Would I have to swap inputs to get the lengths correct?

That answers my question perfectly, I wasn't sure if the NP242 used a hall effect type sensor on the electronic speedometer versions instead of a gear. I should be able to make this case work then. Thanks!

I'm looking at swapping a non renix (1991 and up) NP242 transfercase into the MJ. I already know I need to swap input shafts to make this work with my AX-15. But I also know that non renix XJ's are Electronic speedometer control. Is there a way that I can make this case work with a mechanical speedometer? If not, what would I have to do to convert the MJ to read an electronic signal?

I have a 90 which was the first year for the AX15, will I have a 23 spline input?

Are you hearing just one click each time the key is turned to the start position? Or are you hearing multiple rapid clicks as your post implies? If it is just one click your starter solenoid has a problem. If it is multiple clicks then you are not getting sufficient current flow to the starter solenoid. The Starter Relay and Ignition switch are not your problems. You are getting power to the starter solenoid (that is the click noise) which means that the starter relay is turning on and sending power to the solenoid, and your ignition switch is making a complete circuit to the relay because if it wasn't the relay would not be functioning and sending power to your solenoid. The gauge cluster has nothing to do with the starting system on a truck this old.

YAY! :jump:

Slide the vent strait up, pull out.