cherokee

Not that I can think of, but it's been 2 years or more since I did this. You'll need some of the trim from the new doors too.

Yes you can. I have swapped a 97+ power window into a 96- door frame. The mounting holes for the regulator are different, and you will need some washers here and there to get the spacing right. I think I needed a track from the new doors as well. Here's a couple pics. Internals. Finished.

it's possible but it's a fair amount of work. old doors need to be modified, you need the new glass, regulators, seals, and maybe some other parts that i can't think of right now. lop out the cross section, drill out the rivets, carefully position and drill holes for the regulator, test fit everything.

can't remember what I did exactly but I think it was close enough that it wasn't a problem. Either I used a washer or had the carpet in and there was enough give to make up the difference.

your upper photo looks to be in excess of .030, the lower... maybe .010-.020... if you don't have any actual tools to measure the inside use some feeler gauges pressed into the ridge. this won't be very accurate at all but you can probably get a ballpark figure within .010-.020. and you won't be measuring the width of the bore, only the difference between the ridge and non ridge.

most likely they are a m10x1.5

You wouldn't happen to have LED bulbs in either end would you?

A renix block is interchangeable with an HO block (certain ones not as easily though). A HO head will bolt to a renix block (and vice versa presumably). A HO intake will bolt up to a renix head, but the ports will not match (and the same in reverse).

I've found that an early-ish tracker/samurai overflow bottle works pretty well if you don't mind some really simple fab work. About 6-8" of flat stock, some tapping, and it attaches to the bracket for the charcoal canister and is a pretty good spot to still let you get to anything you need to. Not the best pic for showing this, but...

it's m10x1.5x65mm or so I guess I missed one. If possible get a hardened flange bolt in m10x1.5x60mm (I never found a 65mm long bolt in the hardware store). If you can't find a flanged (built in washer) bolt, find a normal one and get a hardened washer to go with it. Don't forget that metric hardness ratings are different so you're looking for a 10.9 rather than the 8.whatever. Last time I bought a couple cost was a bit over $2/pc. The bolts that Wildman is referring to are the bolts used to hold the upper trackbar/motormount bracket to the frame.

Like this? ah ha, fixed

The NSS would need to be swapped as well as 97+ has a different plug style.

So lately I've been trying to figure out how to classify the renix o2 sensor. It didn't register before that it operated on a 5v range when I'd only heard of 1v range sensors. Since some wideband o2 sensors use a 5v output does that mean the renix sensor qualifies as a wideband sensor? Or was it not that sensitive and needed the extra voltage range to make up for it? It'd be nice if a could hook up an afr gauge of some sort directly to the factory o2 sensor. Has anybody ever logged the voltages produced while a stock (or non stock) motor was running?

Actually, the 3rd already is an led strip.

Turns out it was led tail light bulbs. Very strange since it would have been working correctly if it wasn't for the 3rd brake light.