what did you do to your MJ today?

[Minuit]

Remembered it exists!

[1989commanche]

Put on my Comanche Club sticker finally. It came the day of my Hernia Surgery. Was not feeling like installing it that week. 

[GreasemonkeySC]

While I was replacing my alternator the other day, I found the freon leaki had been procrastinating dealing with.
So now....

[watchamakalit]

Thanks to the wonderful members here at comanche club I found the cause of a no start condition that ive fought for a while now. Now to put some things back together and get a new floor in it.

Obligatory photo: don't worry she is getting moved out shortly.....



Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk

[Wounded_Fighter]

On 4/27/2019 at 5:52 PM, 1989commanche said:

Put on my Comanche Club sticker finally. It came the day of my Hernia Surgery. Was not feeling like installing it that week. 

That looks like some new glass there...

[1989commanche]

5 hours ago, Wounded_Fighter said:

That looks like some new glass there...

Nope just a good angle it’s not even very clean. Stock window from when it was new😀

[GreasemonkeySC]

AC went warm again!
After some searching I find this BS.....
The low side cap I replaced was apparently deeper than the one that came with the fittings.
Dug out the broke cap, checked the schrader's, leak tested again, filled system again!

Has anyone noticed the AC in the MJ is slow to start cooling on start up? It needs to be driven a bit to get cold. Almost like the condenser isn't being cooled.
I've been through the system, everything but the evaporator & high side hose is new. Vacuume leak test is good. I got no pings on my sniffer in the cab & under the hood, system has dye in it, pressures are normal, hose & condenser temps are normal.

[GreasemonkeySC]

[Pete M]

you should probably start a tech thread   

[Minuit]

13 hours ago, GreasemonkeySC said:

Has anyone noticed the AC in the MJ is slow to start cooling on start up? It needs to be driven a bit to get cold. Almost like the condenser isn't being cooled.

Mine is pretty cool right away. Gets better once you start moving but it's not a huge difference.

 

What condenser are you running?

[Minuit]

The Weekend of the Drum Brakes

 

'89: Both rear adjusters seized solid, passenger side brake shoes were put on backwards by a previous owner. Brake fluid looks like muddy water. Spend the afternoon putting new shoes and hardware on. Both rear brakes get plenty of fluid, but no brakey brakey. The shoes don't even budge. The only possible thing I can think of is seized wheel cylinders. Yay!

 

'91: Decide I'm going to try and get the right rear adjuster working again. Remember how much I hate the 9" brakes on the c-clip D35s. After spending way too much time screwing with the stupid adjuster cable setup, it works for about 3 stops until the wheel cylinder on that side pops and fills the drum with brake fluid. Yay! Guess I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow for some ZJ disc parts.

 

Drum brakes can  my [REDACTED]

[GreasemonkeySC]

Mine is pretty cool right away. Gets better once you start moving but it's not a huge difference.
 
What condenser are you running?

OE replacement from NAPA

[Minuit]

11 hours ago, GreasemonkeySC said:

On 5/5/2019 at 11:06 PM, Minuit said:

Mine is pretty cool right away. Gets better once you start moving but it's not a huge difference.
 
What condenser are you running?

OE replacement from NAPA

I think that's a "serpentine" tube and fin style condenser. A lot of guys have similar complaints with them on 134a. Back when my A/C still had the original parts including the condenser, it'd struggle to reach 50F at the vents even when moving and it was even worse at idle. If your pressures are good and you're getting good airflow through the condenser (fan clutch?), that's probably what I'd be looking at myself. It sounds like you know what you're doing so you might know about this, but I've always tried misting some cool water on the condenser and seeing what happens to the pressures. If you get a big drop on the high side, the problem is either the condenser or airflow through it. Although with a stock condenser on R-134a, I'd personally expect "just ok" temperatures at idle.

 

When I built my system I used a parallel flow APDI 7014173 condenser. I don't know if that was what made the difference, but the A/C now is much better than I ever remember it being before the rebuild.

 

[Minuit]

Hard to put into words how much better it stops and the pedal feels now. Totally worth getting sunburnt in a crappy junkyard in the middle of the hood. Writeup incoming, maybe? All OEM parts, and the ZJ parking brake cables even fit, if a little short. I did have to make new brake lines to each caliper, as neither one came off nicely. There are aftermarket parking brake cables that are about the right length.

 

Just have to patch up one small leak. It was a flare that I knew was suspect before I even bolted it up. Turns out it was dripping a tiny bit of fluid after a very hard panic stop. I'll fix it tomorrow. I hate those bar clamp flaring tools so, so much.

[89 MJ]

Called a guy about buying another one. 

[GreasemonkeySC]

I think that's a "serpentine" tube and fin style condenser. A lot of guys have similar complaints with them on 134a. Back when my A/C still had the original parts including the condenser, it'd struggle to reach 50F at the vents even when moving and it was even worse at idle. If your pressures are good and you're getting good airflow through the condenser (fan clutch?), that's probably what I'd be looking at myself. It sounds like you know what you're doing so you might know about this, but I've always tried misting some cool water on the condenser and seeing what happens to the pressures. If you get a big drop on the high side, the problem is either the condenser or airflow through it. Although with a stock condenser on R-134a, I'd personally expect "just ok" temperatures at idle.
 
When I built my system I used a parallel flow APDI 7014173 condenser. I don't know if that was what made the difference, but the A/C now is much better than I ever remember it being before the rebuild.
 

That's the style.
I was kinda thinking it was the 134a causing the issue. It's always hit or miss with 134a retrofitting on OE parts. I've been through lots of HVAC training over the years. None of them could ever convince me that using 134a in a system engineered for R12 wasn't going to cause issues.
There's no mechanical issue I can find, so I'll deal with the slow initial cool down.

[GreasemonkeySC]

Hard to put into words how much better it stops and the pedal feels now. Totally worth getting sunburnt in a crappy junkyard in the middle of the hood. Writeup incoming, maybe? All OEM parts, and the ZJ parking brake cables even fit, if a little short. I did have to make new brake lines to each caliper, as neither one came off nicely. There are aftermarket parking brake cables that are about the right length.
 
Just have to patch up one small leak. It was a flare that I knew was suspect before I even bolted it up. Turns out it was dripping a tiny bit of fluid after a very hard panic stop. I'll fix it tomorrow. I hate those bar clamp flaring tools so, so much.

I look forward to that info.
If I'm gonna keep my truck as a DD, I've got some upgrades to make.

[13 Legion]

Well I’m hoping to get her a legit plate! I live in an area of the state where you have to have emissions. Long story short I’m going to attempt, again, to apply for another type of plate. I contacted my BMV and said I wanted to apply for an historical plate (these issued plates are exempt from emission testing... thank you!!!) Only requirement is that vehicle is at least 25 years old. Contacted my insurance, sent in required pics. Fingers crossed for a 32 year old Jeep.

[RustyRodder]

Finally did the wiper bushings, and ran the REM wire into the cab.

Then found that I have a coolant leak that goes onto the evap canister, and for some reason it really doesnt go over 165 when driving.  Wonder if the CTS is bad.

[watchamakalit]

Didnt really do much after the 6hr drive home but the new floor pans arrived today. Gonna get started tomorrow after work.

My build: https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://comancheclub.com/topic/8033-finally-found-onenow-it-has-a-new-floor/&share_tid=8033&share_fid=53169&share_type=t

[GreasemonkeySC]

Sunday I noticed a small coolant leak. Found a loose lower hose clamp, and fixed.
Fire it up, fill it up, watch the constant stream from the water pump.
I was cleaning up some grime on the rear of the intake manifold, and the motor stumbled! Intake leaking!
Today I replaced my lifetime warranty water pumpi just put on a few months ago.

After some inspecting, I find the 2 rear manifold bolts were not completely tight. Intake leak fixed!

[GreasemonkeySC]

Started hunting for another freon leak!

[GreasemonkeySC]

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So jealous of that black interior!

[GreasemonkeySC]

Added some pinstripes.

Not sure I like them.....

 

[13 Legion]

On 5/11/2019 at 1:37 PM, 13 Legion said:

Contacted my insurance, sent in required pics. Fingers crossed for a 32 year old Jeep.

Well after working 14 hrs last night.....Called downstate to verify I had my ducks in a row. Got sent a temp insurance ID card as well as an in house form, from  State Farm, saying vehicle is insured as antique/ historic. Not enough. They need hard copies of course. After 15 minutes of going around in a circle I told them I’ll just register in another county. I told the lady ‘I have insurance and a current license, I’m good to go. You don’t want to plate it that’s your problem. I’m driving.’ It just irks me to know downstate Indy, the ones in charge, tell me I’m good to go, the people here tell me that’s just a call center they’ve never actually worked in a branch. Whatever.... to be continued....