GreasemonkeySC

Use a can of 3M spray adhesive #90. It will never happen again!

Been busy lately. So busy I'm having to get my buddy to work on my MJ while I'm running my new business. So here's the list of repairs........ New control arms, bushings on the axle, ball joints, end links, fuel sending unit, motor mounts, spring & shackle bushings.

Area 51......

Cried!

And I checked today. Thermostat opens properly.

Starting to think my new thermostat isn't opening fully.

This is after a flush & fill with pre mix 50\50. Chem tested - no head gasket leak! Dash, thermostat housing, radiator cap. It's running 225° with the AC on at highway, or city speeds. If I try to tow my #800 trailer it runs up around 250°, with or without AC. It's never run this warm before. Just started yesterday. I don't understand WTF is going on.

Recently replaced a failed water pump, and put in a new thermostat. Flushed & filled the cooling system. Everything went well until I towed a 1500 trailer down the interstate @ 80mph. 25 miles from home I notice the temp rise quickly, so I kill the AC. Temp doesn't drop, so I pull off to investigate. Temp is holding at around 245° with the E-fan constantly running. I let it sit & cool for a bit, then check coolant. I find a muddy rusty nasty mess in the radiator. [emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959] I hooked the trailer to my wife's JKU, and back down there road I go. Temp holds at about 225°. We made it through family lake day, but just barely. Now I gotta flush it again.[emoji2959] Anyone know a good coolant additive for rust prevention? One that's not snake oil! The curious thing is that I have 2 TJ's, and a YJ. None of them have this issue, and I fill them with the same coolant & water.

Who the F**k invited the clowns fishing? [emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959]

You can do an Amazon search for "M10 1.50 shift knob" and get pages of results! I have the Hurst T-handle, OE fat head knob, aluminum ball, aluminum tall knob, and Dragon Ball Z #4.

Added some pinstripes. Not sure I like them.....

So jealous of that black interior!

Started hunting for another freon leak! [emoji2959][emoji2959]

Sunday I noticed a small coolant leak. Found a loose lower hose clamp, and fixed. Fire it up, fill it up, watch the constant stream from the water pump. [emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959] I was cleaning up some grime on the rear of the intake manifold, and the motor stumbled! [emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959] Intake leaking! Today I replaced my lifetime warranty water pumpi just put on a few months ago. [emoji2959] After some inspecting, I find the 2 rear manifold bolts were not completely tight. Intake leak fixed! [emoji16][emoji16][emoji322][emoji322]

I look forward to that info. If I'm gonna keep my truck as a DD, I've got some upgrades to make.

That's the style. I was kinda thinking it was the 134a causing the issue. It's always hit or miss with 134a retrofitting on OE parts. I've been through lots of HVAC training over the years. None of them could ever convince me that using 134a in a system engineered for R12 wasn't going to cause issues. There's no mechanical issue I can find, so I'll deal with the slow initial cool down.

OE replacement from NAPA

[emoji3525][emoji3525][emoji849][emoji2369]

AC went warm again! [emoji51][emoji31] After some searching I find this BS..... The low side cap I replaced was apparently deeper than the one that came with the fittings. [emoji849] Dug out the broke cap, checked the schrader's, leak tested again, filled system again! Has anyone noticed the AC in the MJ is slow to start cooling on start up? It needs to be driven a bit to get cold. Almost like the condenser isn't being cooled. I've been through the system, everything but the evaporator & high side hose is new. Vacuume leak test is good. I got no pings on my sniffer in the cab & under the hood, system has dye in it, pressures are normal, hose & condenser temps are normal. [emoji2369][emoji2369]

While I was replacing my alternator the other day, I found the freon leaki had been procrastinating dealing with. So now....

Decided to get back at that code #41. Finally found a test procedure got that fault code. Found an open circuit between the ignition & ASD relay. R&R ignition switch. $25 Continue testing, found faulty alternator circuit internally. R&R alternator $175 Test battery I had charging during the repairs. It failed! Install used battery I had around the shop. $0 Finally! She's back on the streets!

My exterior door & ignition key are the same.

[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji23][emoji23]

Spare key locked some place under the truck. Kingsley Guard-a-key Black... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMDX3B6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You misunderstand! Tested & Replaced the faulty MAP sensor, cleared code, truck running at idle in my shop, 2 min later I get the check engine again! Now code 41. Just now, battery at 11.7v, alternator only charging at 9.9v, wiggled wiring harness, alternator jumped to 14.4v. Cut off truck. I figure it's a poor connection, clean cable ends on alternator\battery\PDC, start truck, alternator is back to 9.9v, and I can't duplicate the result of the wiggle test. [emoji35][emoji35][emoji35] Dropped tools, closed shop, going fishing! I refuse to have a [emoji90] day.