GreasemonkeySC

More like I can't help my self!I'mma jeep whore, and sooner or later this daily driver will end up full on custom.

So what did everyone's MJ get for Christmas? Mine got a new clutch kit, front & rear brakes, toolbox, lighted rear view, 97+side mirrors, rear bumper, sound\heat insulation, and side window tint. [emoji318][emoji318][emoji318][emoji318]

I know what ya mean. I'm debating doing bed liner in my Rubi. 6in long arm, 35s, tummy tuck, custom shafts, regear, custom torque converter, and no carpet to avoid the messy cleanup after wheeling. Everything resonates, and the volume is unbelievable. I could use a thick coat of bed liner, and it will take quite a bit of it out. If you look around Lowe's\Home Depot you can find Great Stuff expanding foam for doors\windows. It's not the regular Reed cans. These are green cans, and less destructive that the original. I'm going to fill my pillars, and roof line with it.

I'm using 50mil butyl base foil backed. I'm using more than I would if it were solely for sound deadening. The foil backed 50mil provides very good heat reduction. It's not as good as using an actual insulation, but is easier to install, and no messy fiberglass.

I've got some delrin & phenolic to choose from. I made some measurements, but it's been busy at work, so no I've not had time to write a program for the CNC machine. Not forgotten. I think about it every time I open the gate.

Here's my crap install job windshield.

Found 50sqft of sound deadening & insulating 50mil adhesive mat on Amazon for $50 shipped. [emoji16] Rear of the cab, tunnel, and roof are about to get quiet!

So I got a new windshield after 4 hours. Windshield took 30 minutes the clean up in between the old glass and new glass took 2 hours. the previous owner had installed the windshield with nothing but two layers of butyl tape. [emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959][emoji2959] The extra time it took was because they decided to close down and take lunch in the middle of my windshield I was waiting on

I've had a small leak around the windshield, about half way up the passenger A pillar. Last week I find my headliner is wet on the driver back corner, right where it cups under the rear glass window frame. Late Friday I pull both A pillar trim, and the drivers B pillar. It drizzled Saturday, and had been clear since! I find the windshield leak using the water hose, and as soon as I start poking at it I realized what the Fu-- stick Di-- dumb half @$$ PO did to try and cover it up! There's a strip of Butyl tape stuffed around the windshield. [emoji2959] Worst part is that this @$$ hat PO couldn't every do that correctly. It was leaking past the Butyl tape! [emoji849] It's got a small crack in the windshield so the up side is that it's probably big enough to replace the windshield. Now to find my rear window leak!

I can attest to that. I've got a list of repairs, or upgrades on every Jeep in the driveway. In the past few days it's rained like there was no end. I found my new rear slider in the MJ is leaking when it rains for a few days. It's already Full***d up my new headliner! No to mention the dam windshield is leaking even after I put an added layer of silicone. On top of that it needs a new clutch since the PO did a $#!& job, and the slave leaks. Don't forget it needs front brakes & rotors. Then my 03 TJ with the transmission rebuild is headed back to the shop for the 5th time, because it still won't act right! The wife's 11 JKU has a leak on the freedom tops, and the new LED front turns are randomly not working. It needs to be regeared so that it has some balls. No more struggling on the highway. My son's 94 YJ needs the ax5 rebuilt, a clutch, and exhaust manifold. Add a tire swing to the bumper, install lights, and Dad's 01 TJ needs an alternator, harness repaired, PCM, complete frame, then the bumper, winch, lift, and lights installed.

Took allot of searching, but I found a pack of bushings at Napa with the 3 I needed. Napa #NOE 665-1522 Hope that saves someone the hassle.

New wiper linkage bushings

You had my hopes and dreams in your hands for just a moment....... Then [emoji95][emoji26] Currently @ 130k, I've upgraded all external parts, and had a full rebuild 2 times. The 42rle still sucks!

So what did it take to do the transmission swap in the Rubicons? I've been all over the place looking, and researching, but everything I find leads me to the conclusion...... If you have an 03-06 TJ Rubi auto, you would have to replace the wiring harness & PCM with an earlier model. The PCM is not tuneable for an alternative to the 42rle, and the transmission variables are to broad for the PCM to be fooled. There's not even an engine swap available for anything equipped with that transmission.

If I could get a few donors I would be willing to try a few lenses. If anyone is interested, ill cover shipping, and only need housings, or ones with damaged lenses.

Getting them apart is no joke! They are glued together, and I spent about 45min with my razor knife & panel puller trying to get that one apart without busting the lense. I'll probably end up with 5-6hr labor in the set if they can be polished. If I had several sets I could try to fix a set, and try new lenses on a set to see how it turns out.

Y'all figure out the designs, and options. Then "I'm be down like 'Foe' flats on a caddy fulla fatz gurlz!" [emoji16][emoji16]

Started carefully taking my OE tail lights apart. They will get a reflective silver coating inside, and the lenses polished. If I can't polish them, I'll start fabricating a set of translucent red acrylic lenses. Helps to work at a place where we CNC route, cut, and form plastics. [emoji16]

I've not gotten anything made yet. It might not happen. The more I look at the tailgate, the more I feel that there isn't enough room for a lock that couldn't be tampered with.

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It's according to what state. I've seen them all laid out differently. Last time I looked, the box you check off for mechanical limitations is the same box you check for the milage not being correct. That's here in SC, and some states are more thorough on paper work. I can get a vehicle titled with nothing more than the current title signed by the owner. So long as it's over 5yrs old. [emoji849]

I use these larger boxes for the kits in all of our vehicles, and the smaller ones for kayaking, ect... MTM Survivor Dry Box with O-Ring Seal (Orange, Small) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KEKOSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K5e6Bb29K72FD

I need a better pic of mine. That makes them look crazy bright. I'm on the other side of the dimming issue. My eyes don't like to focus from looking out where the headlights are protecting light away, and try to glance down at my cluster. I need the bright lights in the cluster to make it easy to see, and the green is easy on my eyes to transition. I've changed the dash light color of everything I have to deep red, or green since my 94 Chevy S10 Blazer with the green digital OE gauge cluster. It's the absolute best gauge set I've ever had, and from 15 to 39yrs old; I've had nearly 20 vehicles.

I worked for a local Ford dealer for several years, and a government fleet for nearly 20yrs. By my understanding there is only one legal requirement when replacing a cluster, or odometer..... The correct milage must be verified by the manufacturer issuing the cluster, and reported to the proper agency. They usually demand the original cluster to test and verify that the odometer has not been tampered with. If no such new replacement is available we had to open the cluster, and install a decal with the original mileage, the beginning mileage on the used cluster, and the difference that would be added to the used cluster reading to give you the correct milage.

Just to chime in on the legal side of this..... You can adjust, replace, reset, zero the odometer. It's not illegal unless you are selling the vehicle, and are misrepresenting the milage. You are perfectly legal so long as you clearly mark the title. There's every a spot on every title I've ever seen for you to mark the vehicle milage as being in excess of the mechanical limitations.