GreasemonkeySC

The issue arises when you reach a location that is prohibited by law! I assure you that walking into the County Court building to go pay taxes isn't going to go well when the security buzzer goes off. [emoji600][emoji600][emoji600][emoji600]

I know I'm not the only MJ owner that has a CWP. The give box is a joke, I'm not leaving it under the seat, and my toolbox in the bed isn't that secure. What's your storage solutions for keeping your side arms secure?

Made adjustments to the SofTopper. I think I got the fit correct now.

It is. They do make one specific to the Comanche, but a new one is around $800

Better pic

I literally finished 5min ago. I was installing my new to me So topper bed cover. $500 used, and a 1 3\4hr drive to get it. It's in excellent shape, and after I can see well enough to give it a few tweaks tomorrow, it will fit perfectly. I even hit the jackpot, and it's the correct color to match the Comanche. BTW: it was from a 6ft bed Toyota Tacoma

I was actually hunting for a pic of the one he made for me. Black kangaroo leather, and bright blue thread to match my car. I guess my pics are lost to time! He taught me how to make headliners, door panels, seat covers, ect....

About 25yrs ago I was working in an aircooled VW restoration & hotrod shop. We had a 75yr old guy that was a heroine addict who did all the interior work. He could custom wrap a steering wheel, and stitch it up in 30min flat. Made some amazing multi color custom wraps.

Jeepsticker.Com custom 2 color Comanche decals. I was impressed with the good work!

1: Blend door actuator motor is an electrically controlled motor that moves the blend door in the HVAC system. That's the door that changes from heat to cool. They seem to always fail in the summer, and in the default heat position. 2: I did get his help with about 6 or so screws, bolts, nuts. I have a bad back, so getting in the floor board to remove & install trim & hardware is tough on me. He took care of that at my direction. So 1 person can do it in under 2hr if you follow my steps, and have some mechanical understanding. Doing that job in under 2hr is something I passed along to others, as the service manual called for removal of the dash, evacuation of the AC system, and partial removal of the HVAC air box behind the dash. If I remember correctly the flat rate box hours for that job are 7.5hr. 3: We weren't. It was a kinda abstract thought.... I was thinking about the past 18yrs I worked on a Municipal police fleet, and 3 years previous at a Ford dealership. Several officers have purchased them from surplus, as they are still the vehicle of choice, and I worked on a good many of those in my off time. Lots of performance upgrades. That repair in particular is a very common repair. Those actuator motor fail regularly. I meant to expand on my statement by saying that it could save you allot of money, time, or both! That's a very costly repair with the average shop charging between $85-125hr. Shops charge flat rate book hours. So 7.5hr x $85 = $637.50 labor + parts. Auto techs get paid by flat rate, so $20hr x 7.5hr = $150 to the tech. If he takes 10hr, he still gets paid 7.5hr rate, and if he does the job in 2hr, he gets the 7.5hr rate. So he could make $150 in 2hr instead of 7.5hr. then on to his next repair. I was actually going to send you a PM with the little how to I posted, but couldn't find it. I had to retype it. Then you ended up asking before I could get free to send it, so I posted it. I didn't mean to interject, and derail your post.

Trying to figure out how I do a blend door motor on a P71 Crown Victoria in under 2hr? Well it's more of a shortcut to get it done in under 2hr. Remove dash trim, cluster, radio, upper trim, glove box, passenger air bag, kick panel on both sides, lower dash bolts on center hump, and HVAC duct behind passenger air bag. Loosen driver's side dash mounting bolt, remove passenger side bolt. Remove the 3 upper screws by the windshield defrost. Use piece of 2x4 between A-pillar & passenger dash mount.Unplug blend door motor, remove screw closest to you. ***Here's the first part of to the trick!!!! If you use a set of dykes you can snip out a 2in wide section of the upper dash directly above the screw closest to the driver. Use a long 1\4" extension with a short swivel 7mm socket, and remove the screw closest to the driver. ***Part 2 I use a 9" long set of side cutters to snip off the plastic stud where the 3rd screw goes. Then you can remove the actuator. I removed the 3rd screw from its mount, and reattach the mount with epoxy, and reinstall the screw with just enough clearance for the new one. I use a box cutter to cut the rear mounting hole on the new actuator motor. This leaves it open like a horse shoe. Reinstall actuator motor, and reassemble the dash in reverse order.

I just helped with a blend for motor on an 04 last week. I can still do one in under 2hr!

About 15yrs ago we had a welding related accident at work. The kid that was suppose to be doing the fab work was a moron! He had been doing allot of small jobs all evening, and had cutting slag all over the floor, accompanied by drops from making small cuts. He was busy welding a vertical filler of about 1\2in, and since he sucked at it, there was hot weld dropping off into the floor. The previous job he did had resulted in a half empty can of spray paint that he left on the welding table. As he was welding, he knocked the can off the table, it landed on a sharp piece of slag that punctured the can, and the dripping weld ignited the paint. It shook the entire building, and have him 3rd degree burns to everything that was exposed.

Several years ago we got 1 of the SC HEAT cars as a prize. Gen 2 Charger. It was completely upfitted, and ready to roll. 1 week into service it starts blowing the fuses for some of the accessories. Here is the professional work I found in the console.... At that point I gutted the wiring, and started over!

Oh I know they are just people, but that guy is one of those that doesn't come to the shop until it's dead! Parts have to fall off, or it not be drivable....

It's holding, so I have a bad control panel. Just have to verify with the gauge.

How fast do you need to sell it? I want it! I'm in Cayce, and can come look at it and time your free.

I took a class in high school. It has been a highly valuable skill. I've built bumpers, skids, trailers, tire swings, and all sorts of awesomeness!

I mounted mine on the front wall inside the bed. I'm have to move it when I put my camper shell on.

Finally got time to install a temporary vacuume canister while I sort out the problems. [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16] BTW: still no vacuume leak, and mode stuck on defrost. [emoji53]

This is a few years old, but I just ran across the pic. Police car comes into the shop, and it literally fell apart as I was pulling it in to check a rear end noise. Officer states the rear end is making noise after his last call ended with a high speed chase! Yeah, because that just happened on your last call.......[emoji52] Bearing failed, ground it's way through 3\4 of the axle shaft, and then the shaft broke.

The pic of the wiring is only the lighting & siren control unit. I add the console, prisoner cage\dog kennel\swat gun vault, camera system, police radio, data transfer system, battery isolator, second battery, computer dock, GPS locator, electronic shotgun lock, and wireless refueling system. I do all of that along with fab work, mechanical repairs, supervise the shop, drive the car\truck\equipment wreckers, and every other job they have ever thought of!

Working now

I spent the past 18yrs of my career with the P71 Interceptor. They do have some quirks, but very solid vehicles. I have a co-worker with a 98 P71 that has 345k on it. He drives 80mi round trip to work\home every day in it. It's been tweaked to the point he's getting 21mi per gallon. He also has an 04 P71 drag car. Twin turbo 5.4 under the hood. It's a freaking beast.

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