GreasemonkeySC

Gonna make a new vacuume reservoir tomorrow. I've got an old stainless water bottle that's not the insulated kind. The lid has a very good thick seal on it, so I'll put an 1\8" barb through the cap, hose clamp it somewhere, and connect to the existing vacuume line. Redneck, I know, I know...... But the one I made from an empty R134a can has been in my Rubicon for about 8yrs without fail!

I'm absolutely sure it's running hot. That's any condition causing the coolant to heat up above the NOT. It only over heated once. That's the point at which the coolant boils, and exceeds the limits of the radiator cap. The cap releases the excess pressure, and allows the coolant & steam to escape. I'm not being a smart @$$, but those are two separate conditions. I use my multi meter temp probe, or my temp gun to watch the temp while I'm testing. I found my last 2 problems today. I just swapped out my idiot cluster to a gauge cluster today. I also found the gauge sensor with the plug broken. Gotta get one in the AM. I noticed that the electric fan only ran a short time. So I find the fan would run for a minute, then abruptly stop. It would also spin a half turn then stop. It ran a full cycle once. Crazy, but the first time I checked it, the fan ran it's cycle, so I assumed it was working properly.

I didn't see any vent at the bottom of the dash. I'll check again. I have a 25 Night Watch over head in my Rubicon. I might swap them out since the 25 is a little smaller.

Replaced the idiot light cluster with the gauge cluster.

My ash tray doesn't stay in place, so I found a spot for my CB. Mounted through the metal bracket around the ash tray.

So where does everyone mount their CB radio? I got a Free, brand new Cobra 25ltd Night Watch. I know it's a little on the big side, but Free!

It sounds like a blood worm.

I wasn't sure. I still see allot of heavy truck, and commercial engines that have retention springs, so I didn't want to assume that was the case.

I filled & pressure tested the cap & system. The water pump had a very small leak on the gasket. I chem checked the system for a head gasket leak, and got negative results thankfully. Gave it a quick flush, and pressure tested again to verify. I'm not gonna replace the gasket when a new pump is only $35, so I put in a new pump. I'll hang on to the old one as a spare in case I get in a jam, or someone needs one to get out of a jam. I put a new thermostat in, replaced all the heater hose, checked the radiator hoses. They do seem to be very new, but the lower hose doesn't have a retention spring to stop it from collapsing. I called NAPA, Oreilly, and AutoZone and none of their replacement hoses have the retention spring. Not sure about what to do there...... New temp sender for the gauge cluster. I figured out that the PO had never put the correct sender in when he put the idiot light cluster in! Guess that explains why I never got an idiot light when it ran hot\over heated. I would imagine that means I wasted money on a new oil pressure sender for a gauge. I'll finish tomorrow morning when it's cooler. I still need to check the radiator for flow, and check the E-fan to be sure it hasn't crapped out on us.

PO head already done a hack job on the exhaust. Cut 4in behind the coupler flange, 4 flared adapters, a 24in pipe, 2 flare adapters, a muffler from something huge (3.25") , and a 45deg turn down right in front of the axle. It was held together by about 8 u-bolt clamps, and hanging from 2 clothes hangers. I drove it 3hr home from purchasing it, and the exhaust literally fell off along the way! [emoji53][emoji53][emoji849][emoji849][emoji19][emoji19][emoji35][emoji35] One of my first repairs was an OE replacement cat back exhaust. I reused the 24in pipe, and welded everything together, hung on new rubber.

First time was the pin hole blow out in the heater hose. Second time was the cap.

Closed

First post: I covered the thermostat. Heater core is completely bypassed, and system was properly filled. I'll know later. I'm going to finally get it in my shop to check it.

I'll be checking the cooling system later. So far I used it to boost of my dead battery in the Rubicon. [emoji35][emoji35][emoji35][emoji35]

The houses are new, water pump is new ish, and I'm going to do a flush first thing. I have several kitchen oven thermometers that I use to find radiators with poor flow. Carefully stuck them through the radiator in a zig-zag and let the engine reach NOT. Check your temps, and it will be obvious the one that's usually cooler by 30deg or more. I actually had just ordered a gauge cluster, and sensors to work the gauges. Should all be here today!

Friday I leave SC on a 4hr trip to North GA to kayak & fish. About 2hr interstate, and 2hr secondary highways. 1hr from home I notice the Comanche is sluggish. I pull off at a rest stop, and instantly see steam, and hear the hiss. No light on the dash! [emoji35] Thankfully it's only a short hose between the heater bypass valve, and the heater core. (The valve is apparently not closing completely [emoji35]) I just looped the heater hose around and bypassed all of it. Top her off with water, and down the road we go. 45min later as we exit the interstate I see steam again! 🤬 This time it isn't just hot, it's over heating. Let it cool, fill it up, check for leaks, let it run, check for leaks. Nada! So I think I might have had an air pocket. We continue on for 1hr on secondary roads, and highways without incident. Back on the interstate again, and I pull over after 30 min to check it. Yep it's hot again. I base this on 25yrs as an auto tech, and literally being able to feel the excessive heat coming off the motor. I let it cool, and get underway with a new route avoiding interstates. No more issues. So my 4hr trip took 7.5hr. No issues Saturday while roaming the mountains of GA kayaking & fishing. 1hr down the interstate today, and it's over heating again! 🤬[emoji35]🤬🤬🤬 New route home, and 6hr later were here. Now I've not checked the system with a pressure tester, or chem tested for a head gasket. I do know the water pump is pumping, radiator & cap is new, E cooling fan is working, thermostat is opening\closing, and system has no air in it. I was towing a 500# trailer with 2 kayaks at around 50# & 75#, with around 200# of cargo in the bed. It seemed like every time we would start running up long grades on the interstate it would get hot. It was fine on the long grades, and winding up mountains though. Only difference I see is the speeds were above 65mph on the interstate, and below 60mph on the highways. I'll be doing a full diagnosis tomorrow, including why my temp light works with the ignition start, but never came on when it got hot, or over heated!

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

So I tested that section with my vacuume pump & gauge. Pump down a vacuum, and check the gauge for loss. I tested it at the T up by the firewall. No vacuume loss. I decided to check it again and found that the previous owner had removed the canister, and capped off the line just forward of the battery. [emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849][emoji849] This guy cut more corners, and did more shady work than I've ever seen before.

Here's a pic. The push rod has a gap of 1\8" to the pedal stud. I looked at the export model bushing, but it's paper thin, not nearly enough to fill the gap.

I removed the clip so I could see to make the video, and there is no bushing that goes there. It's suppose to fit snug.

So I still got the issue, and here's what I found.

Not a vacuum leak between the controls and the motor. I've checked that already. Justin need to figure out where the problem lies. Thanks for the illustration. I'll check them tomorrow.

My MJ is stuck on the defrost vents. The useless manual I have had nothing with actual locations of vacuum actuators. I need to test it, and try to find a replacement if it's faulty. I'm about to do a compressor, accumulator, expansion block, flush, 134a conversion, blower resistor, and duct cleaning. Can someone please give me the exact location of the mode for actuator?

Last night I did a rebuild on my foot brake pedal assembly. Just need to get my son to install the bolt by the fuse panel, and make the adjustments under the bed.

Ordered some decals I thought would look good on the Comanche front fenders along with the OE badges. Slapped then on today!