DirtyComanche

I use the synthetic in my AX-15. It, like most modern GL-5 oils, do meet the GL-4 spec for sulfidation corrosion. Unfortunately the presence of high levels of phosphorous means it will eventually strip the synchros (I did not know this when I put it in). Should I be using it? Probably not. But I'm not a fan of putting motor oil in a tranny. I'll probably switch it to something else next time, I haven't decided what though (most of the better options aren't really available to me, and I'm not putting $$$ Amsoil in a transmission that's already mostly junk).

Yes, it's the thicker oil. Most likely at least. Being better oil probably doesn't hurt. I'm surprised you ran cheap oil. And then not switching to a synthetic? Even I run synthetic, and have you seen my garbage!?

I'm assuming it's from doing something wrong with the puller or the up'n'down wrench. Filing some threads off, or a thread file, can fix either if you know how...

On the threaded shaft in your steering column, you can probably just clean the first couple threads off with a fine file and it will be perfectly fine... Or get a thread file and clean them up more properly.

That's a cool process. Nobody around here does it, which is kinda too bad, I need something like that done on my old J truck cab.

That's good info on the latest style MAP sensor. I'll have to try to remember that.

As for the 242 vs 231 tcase, some of the parts do swap between them. As long as they're the same generation, the input gear and planetaries are the same. However, that's pretty much where the similarities end. New Process actually rates the 242 for a higher maximum input torque, IIRC, but as to of how much of a difference it makes in the real world I don't know. I wouldn't hesitate to use one or the other for what you're doing. Don't fix your floors with fiberglass. It's temporary at best. Weld or rivet/panel adhesive new pieces in. Keep working at it, you're making great progress.

No point now. Does anyone have a picture of the TJ tank installed in a MJ?

There's an extension for Google Chrome or Mozilla Firefox browsers that will let you see the pictures.

You can take the brackets off your bench seat and put them on a set of XJ buckets. You just have to find the correct XJ seats (84-95, the straight railed versions fit much better) and drill the rivets out of the brackets on each and replace them with 1/4" bolts and nylocks/stovers. I think there's a decent tutorial in the DIY forum.

I want to pull apart the slave that failed on mine just to see if it was assembled wrong or just a really $#!&ty part. GTLMA is Dot 4, which is an odd choice for a clutch system, I guess next time I might try it or a Dot 4 fluid.

I'm not familiar enough with their build to know. Did they do a 97+ swap at the same time? Because if so, the 97+ fuel system, cluster, and fuel pump wiring would likely play nice with the TJ tank. Otherwise it should be a matter of adding a return line to the tank, and swapping the sending unit guts (and perhaps the fuel pump) over to the TJ pump/sender/pickup basket. You would have to bend/trim the arm on the sender correctly for it to read accurately. I think the TJ pump basket also has a regulator on it, you could likely leave it in place though. I've toyed with adding a YJ tank as an aux tank, I was just going to graft a XJ fill neck and sheetmetal into the rear of the bedside, it looked like it was possible to snake a filler hose through the frame back there, BUT you might need to cut/weld a notch in for it. This really should be a new thread, it's a different topic really...

Following this logic, cracks on the road will cause death wobble, while loose steering allows it. Balancing tires only goes so far, as there is nothing you can do about the other potential sources of vibration or upset to the stability of the vehicle. I'm not saying don't get the tires balanced, but if he has a blown shock and a bad ball joint on the same side, it will likely still death wobble.

I think you have a ground issue, or some wires melted together, based on the whole bizarre issue with your brake light switch engaging your aux fan. Might want to do a quick visual on your underhood harness, check your fuses and fusible links, and look at all the ground points.

Read through build threads and ask questions. There's many ways to skin a cat, and there is probably no best one, but there is certainly bad ways to do it... And remember, in general, you get what you pay for. Cheap parts are cheap parts.

Omix is generally on par with whatever the cheapest generic is for quality, but priced much higher.

You can adjust the mileage fairly easy if you feel the need.

Yeah, I'd suggest making your own tcase linkage. I would have to find my old phone to get the pics from when I made mine. But it was very simple, just one piece of flat bar with the correct holes in it and a little grinding to shape, a couple rod ends, some threaded rod, and some nuts and bolts. Functions way better than the factory one ever did. Also, since your brake lines are cut you might want to look into deleting the height sensing load valve thinger for the rear brakes. Lots of guys do, as most of them aren't functional at this point anyways. Mine was gone before I got the truck. You will only need one line to the rear brakes that way.

The two breather/vent lines on the transmission and tcase would originally get routed around and hook to a bracket on the bellhousing that dumps them downwards. You're better off putting a new hose on them (you can tee them together) and running them up into the engine bay. There is a vent cap to go on them to keep water/debris out, I have the Dorman P/N around somewhere if you want it. The switch on the transmission is for backup lights. Of your mystery lines that run to the rear, I can't commend what order they go in. However there is a brake pressure line, a brake fail pressure line, both of which run from the distribution valve by the master cylinder back to the height sensing load valve above the rear axle. The fail line only comes into play if there is a front brake failure (drop in pressure) as the valve will shuttle in the distribution block to provide pressure to the fail line which bypasses the height valve (gives rear brakes full pressure). Then there is the fuel pressure and return (which you ID'd) lines. Lastly there is an evap line from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister in the engine bay. The other lines are vacuum lines for the CAD (central axle disconnect), they run from the vacuum reservoir to the tcase vacuum switch, and then to the axle and an indicator switch for 4wd. There is info around on exactly which ones do what and how to make it all work, personally I'd delete it.

Nope. I'd check the foil circuit board and all the connections. They corrode too, especially if it's a junkyard unit that might have been exposed to the elements for a long time. You can drive the gauges separate if you have a wiring diagram.

I find most of the kits suck... But they tend to be a better deal than piecing it together, at least in the short term. Inevitably almost any of the kits tend to need upgrades/replacements.

Yeah, 150-175lbs seems more reasonable with brakes on it. I think I'm going to buy one of these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VDKXJ2W/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2JQHHAMEA1H4B Should give me some answers between what is lying around my place.

Wow, lots of progress. What media did they blast it with? ZM bends up bedsides, but they need a lot of work to use: http://stores.zmjeeps.com/bed-side-mj-comanche/

You just cut them down a bit. It seems to cut down on the amount of oil that gets vented into the air filter. I say seems to, I don't have enough first hand data at this point.

Internal or external slave?