Salvagedcircuit

It's possible my hood was an after market or from a different year cherokee. It was painted. PO decided to spray paint can overhaul just the hood, so it's making me think it was swapped.

Looking for a broken ash tray for the 84-96 style interior. I am testing to see if I can grind the inside of ash tray or heat gun it to make it slightly bigger. I'm not sure of it's solid or hollow inside. I don't want to destroy mine to find out. Yeah I know I can buy one on ebay, but I want a broken one so I'm not wasting a good part. I don't care the color. Thanks! End cap brackets

My MJ was very much a misfit toy when I picked it up. Every front panel is not flush and the panel gap is variable. I re-mounted my passenger side fender and the panel gap and fit has greatly improved. However, there is now a huge gap between the front of the hood and the front clip. I can fit my entire pinky inside the gap. I'll be adjusting the driver fender soon but it looks mostly correct. The hood looks to be sitting correctly and even on the rear cowl seal. Is there anyway to tell if my hood is factory or aftermarket? Is there a dimension discrepancy between the two? My left and right fender are AMC parts with the 1987 date visible on both inside faces. I could not find any part number emboss on my hood. Thanks!

One of my brake pads started separating like that when I noticed one slide pin was longer than the other.. .

@Islander@Pete M@gogmorgo Somehow it's not hitting the crossmember. There's ~1/16in between the muffler and crossmember. There is a rust spot where it could be hitting. I'm going to grab my gopro and investigate again. I tried paint but it left no marks on the muffler My motor mounts and transmission mounts are ~8 months old. I did not replace that rubber block that holds the catalytic converter hanger. Does replacing this rubber block solve the problem? Is there anyway other way to add clearance besides adding spacers between the crossmember bolts and the frame? Edit: I ran across this guy's post: https://there4.io/2021/07/26/Jeep-XJ-Crossmember-Exhaust-Hanger/ Maybe I'll try to add a half-pipe copper or steel pipe shim below the C-shaped hanger for the exhaust. That may give me some more clearance in case the muffler is rubbing. That seems to be the mos reasonable solution without having to spend 3-4hours removing the crossmember to get to the small lil rubber block.

Oof. What a find Hopefully a new gasket and oil and you'll be home free.

What an update! Excellent work!

Looking like glass! Gosh I want to do this to mine if only I could find the time

It is an awesome color. I think it's Spinnaker Blue. I was between that and my original MJ color, medium bronze metallic.

I believe teraflex sells the spacer separately. Something like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/TeraFlex-8636-Pre-Load-Spacer-Brake/dp/B00ZJB9XOE https://teraflex.com/tj-rear-disc-brake-preload-spacer-each.html If you call them and ask them nicely I they will let you buy it direct from them.

Now those are the 80's vibes I'm talkin about. Nice

Hahaha. excellent

I did the WJ booster upgrade. You need to check over every part of your braking system with a fine tooth comb. Check: -brake bleeder screws. They can get clogged or in my case deformed from over torquing. the bleed hole should be circular not oval. They will no longer flow brake fluid properly when deformed. Thus your system will not bleed. -brake bleeder screw threads in the calipers. If there are only a few threads, it's no good. The after market calipers have incredibly poor quality control. I went through 4 sets of calipers before I found one that was rebuilt properly. -correct length caliper slide pins. Mine were from a different caliper and punctured the back of the brake pads. -teflon sleeve on the caliper slide pins. They are necessary for the proper function of renix era brake calipers. They are often omitted on rebuilt calipers. -grease up slide pins generously with brake lube -check the caliper piston for pitting. A newly rebuilt caliper came with a piston so badly pitted the surface looked like swiss cheese. I found brake bleeding to be significantly easier using speed bleeders. These have a ball bearing inside the bleeder to reduce air in the system on the brake pedal return swing. To me it was worth the ~$14 to not have to bug someone else for an hour or so while debugging.

That's some dedication right there. #LifeGoals

I'm following this build thread with some eager eyes. Stainless mudguard brackets from @boxyjeep looking good in the cart....

The acceleration is smooth when it makes the thudding sounds. Also, the thudding sounds are not present while decelerating. when driving 50 or 60mph there are no odd vibrations.

I checked my U-joints for play and they all seemed pretty solid. I'll check for play again though. Thanks.

My comanche's been a pretty great lil vehicle. The engine sounds good and idles smoothly at ~800rpm. The AW4 transmission seems to shift without issue and I'm pretty happy with it. I just replaced my muffler, tail pipe and window guides so the cab is quieter than ever. However, I am noticing a thudding sound whenever I initially accelerate from stop. It's not particularly loud and does not occur with gradual acceleration. Only when I'm putting my foot to the floor when accelerating from stop. I put a gopro under my comanche and recorded the drivetrain a few times. There is a bit of movement in the yolk, but that may be normal. Oddly, the gopro does not seem to pick up the thudding sound in audio. The thudding sound is a 3 to 4 knock on hard acceleration and then vanishes. It's completely gone after initial acceleration and does not occur when accelerating from 20-->30 or 30-->60, just the initial acceleration. I originally thought it was my speedometer cable, but it does not change with speed. I don't know what's causing this. I replaced the fluid in my transfer case 3 months ago. I replaced the coolant lines to my transmission since one was misshapen, I added transmission fluid to compensate for loss when removing my transmission lines. I replaced the transmission and engine mounts. I just greased the yolk fitting as well as the front / back drive shaft u-joints. I greased one u-joint in the double cardan joint as the other requires me to remove the cross member to grease. Edit: I looked back through the videos and noticed my muffler is moving a bit. I didn't tighten it down super tight because I didnt want to deform the pipe. It's a pain to remove when the pipes are dented and rusted together. I guess I'll have to tighten them down. Any ideas welcome. Thanks a ton guys!

This is good to know! I did not have plans to put sound deadening on the inside roof. Tryin to keep my center of mass on the wayyy low Gotta put the sport in sportruck

Nice job! A lot of great guides in that build thread. Well deserved!

That's not a bad idea! I ended up velcro-ing the front dash carpet the other day and it came out excellent. I don't see why it would not work there.

My MJ was missing a headliner. I eventually found one and installed it. However it seems the center rear sags a bit and obstructs the rear glass about 1in. Is this normal? The headliner was not creased or cracked. The rear b-pillars are the only thing that hold in the headliner in the back. Is there some bracket I'm missing? In the photos below I'm holding up the center with my hand in a before / after.

Thanks for the input guys. I found what I needed.

Some mighty fine work there. Nice job

Looking for: Both Front Fender Braces, Wheel Well Fender Flare Brackets. They look like the attached images. I have the fender flares, just not the brackets.