Salvagedcircuit

Does anyone have a pdf editing software? I think we should respect jeremy's privacy and edit out the address from the PDF and then re-upload it. Just sayin.

Oh man, talk about landing in the right hands Eagerly awaiting the restoration process

Woah this is absolutely wild. Thanks for the link @89 MJ

I just have to find a red that does not fade in the sun!

Your bench seat may just be stuck on the track/guide. The adjustment cable on mine snapped and the seat was stuck somewhere midway on the track. I ended up using stainless braided line (garage door cable) that you can find at most hardware stores and a U-type Wire clamp, then tied it to the adjustment lever base and the far corner, as per the original design. A turnbuckle also gives you some more adjustment if you can't get the tension right for the adjustment lever. There are other ways to adjust the pedals. You can upgrade the brake booster to a dual-diaphragm and choose to not use the 1/4in spacer. The brake pedal will sit closer to the driver. You can also use an accelerator cable spacer, which early ford mustang owners used to adjust the pedal height as there was no mechanism to do so. Obviously whatever mods you do, take your own safety into account. It's purely your call.

Woah. I'm guessing someone got crafty with fiberglass and bondo. I can't see this being a stock option.

I may try to copy that. My bed mat is an aftermarket one, but I'm not complaining

Just have to figure out what orientation now I think I'll test it out with tape or cardboard to settle on the size of it

The big question: Should I do that to my new roll up tonneau cover?

Lookin mighty good in the snow! Excellent work. One of these days I'm going to have to service my gas tank + pump. both are still stock

Very cool!

Excellent! Saved one from doom and gloom

Mine looked exactly like this when I removed em I replaced them with used genuine motor mounts from a ~00 TJ. Who knows how they will hold up, but they may outlast the clone mounts of unknown quality. I really wish keyparts would clone the motor mounts. I'd grab like 4 sets for keepsies.

That paint job Simply amazing. Wowzers!

Very cool! Thanks for the scan!

No problem! I went with the monroe ones because they were made in the states and at the time was ~$97 for the pair. That's hard to say no to. Also, one of the shocks in my first set of 58484's was leaking so I had rockauto send me replacements. Monroe quality has really, really went by the wayside lately.

I did the same thing to my MJ. Previous owner lifted it 2-2.5in using front spring puck spacers. Stock original control arms. Stock swaybar with no lift blocks. I achieved stock comanche ride height according to the dimensions listed on comancheclub / MJ manual. Here's what I did: Front: MOOG K160039 Coil Spring Insulator Moog CC782 Bilstein 24185622 MOOG K3171 for stock MJ swaybar diameter Dorman lower and upper MJ/XJ control arms New front axle bushing moog swaybar links Rear: MONROE 58484 hilman bronze bushings from tractor supply Moog K150405 Front: I removed the pucks and went with two new MOOG K160039 Coil Spring Insulator and a set of moog CC782 front coil springs. These springs are for a cherokee with an upcountry package, but they were the cheapest and quickest springs I could get at the time, and my brother used the exact ones on his XJ. I went with bilstein 24185622 shocks for the front because the monroe and rancho shocks I purchased locally and online were defective. I tried four sets of monroe and 2 sets of rancho front shocks. They were all incredibly underdamped out of the package. Even after priming them and leaving them sit upright, the rebound time was measured in minutes. no car shock should take minutes to rebound. The bilsteins were far more responsive and well worth the money. I went with dorman control arms because they were like $26ea at the time and I didn't need to press anything. I did notice there was some sample variation between control arms and needed to purchase 4 sets. Dorman changed the design at one time and the metal was thicker on the left side vs the right. after choosing between 4 sets, I got a set that matched. I returned the duds. Folks here like going with the WJ control arms because they are fully boxed in. The dorman ones can be fine, just be picky. Or get some bushings and press new bushings into your old contol arms. I would highly suggest replacing the front axle bushing as this is usually original to the vehicle, 35+ years old and rotting. It's a doosy of a job but it's well worth it. no wobbles here! You will need to rent a bushing press tool from advance/orileys. Now is also not a bad time to consider grabbing a ZJ or WJ control arm for the front. They are larger diameter than XJ/MJ and a lot of folks on here are happy with the results. Also, get new swaybar links or a swaybar link bushing kit. Do not get it locally. The one I originally grabbed from advance failed in 2 weeks. The rubber cracked while being torqued to specification. I went with a moog kit and was ok. Mevotech also makes some nice stuff. Rear: I went with MONROE 58484 helper shocks in the back. Other folks on comanchclub used these with success. I also happened to use this same series on my astro van with great success. You will need to use bushings to make these work as the ID is different than the OD of the shock post on the comanche. I also upgrade my rear leaf springs, but it was likely unneeded with the helper shocks. I ended up using XJ rear leaf shackles since I did not want to press in new bushings into the old shackles. I did not have a press. I think there is about a ~1.25in height difference between the readily available XJ leaf shackles and the stock MJ shackles. Because my leaf springs ended up being some weird custom package from st.louis spring, the XJ leaf shackle ended up providing me the perfect stock ride height.

Excellent taste right there

Absolutely mint grand wagoneer in front of my post office. I peaked through the windows and the interior was also immaculate. This one had to have been restored.

This is the hose that's commonly available https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9805924&cc=1181584&pt=6900&jsn=16342 With the ebay link and the rockauto link, both lines are now available. Yay.

Gonna drop this here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/126363936003

Woah there. Wow. That's pretty crazy!

According to this thread: The long bed GMC Sonoma / Chevy S10 Tonneau cover seems to dimensionally fit: I found the s10 bed dimensions on the s10 forum. The longbed S10 measures 88.31in, incredibly close to the 88in length of the comanche longbed. I checked more modern vehicles and it seems the 7ft bed sonoma / s10 is the only real option for the comanche longbed https://automotozine.com/truck-bed-dimensions-size-chart/ The specific Tonneau cover mentioned in that thread is the Access TonnoSport Tonneau Cover 22020159 This is a video showing the install of that tonnosport cover on a s-10. I don't know if the video shows a longbed or not:

Still searching for a tonneau cover for a longbed. I don't know of any. Hopefully I'll find one for a ford, chevy, toyota or nissan that's dimensionally compatible