Salvagedcircuit

I just read the article. Heck yeah man! Well deserved! Your Race bumper looks like fire! I remember when that archer brothers MJ sold on BOT. I surely thought it was going to go for 40k or something. The comanche finally made it mainstream Excellent work man!

Aww yea You have chosen correctly

Interested in how this one goes too. If the seller only put 200 miles on it, and has only owned it for 6 months, he most definitely purchased it to flip it.

I get about 17-18MPG with my '88. There have been claims that MPG can improve if you move the IAT (Intake AIr Temp) sensor from the intake manifold to the air box, but it looks like the results are mixed. You're pushing a brick through the air at 60+mph. Not much you can do with that

Mine was covered in a blob of silicone. There was no cap on mine. The other ones I've seen showed an exposed torx screw. The later ones have this geometry missing completely. I could be wrong, but that's what I found

I used 5/8 heater hose on my vacuum lines harness because both of my u-shaped pieces rotted out after 34 years and the dorman kit only included one side of the vacuum harness. So I notched the front vacuum connector a bit and put the hose over the fitting inside of inside the fitting. It works, but the heater hose is not very flexible. Since you have a renix, also check your throttle body! Early renix throttle bodies had an extra threaded testing input port. The geometry was removed on later renix throttle bodies. I found this out by investigating a blob of silicone the previous owner attached to my throttle body. I had a vacuum leak there. That torx screw you see in the photos is stock and just requires a new 8mm ID, 12mm OD o-ring to seal well. The stock o-ring was very flat and old. I snuged it down tight with the new o-ring and no the screw does not interfere with the butterfly on the throttle body. The o-ring can be found at any TrueValue / Ace / Do-it-Best hardware store.

I second this. The line going to the MAP sensor is an odd size and very brittle. It can sometimes not seal well. If you find a hole in it, you may be able to get away with an adhesive heatshrink fix, but a long term fix is Cruiser54 tip 31: https://cruiser54.com/?p=280 I have no idea if this problem holds true for HO though. If you end up finding any holes in your other vacuum lines, I do find that adhesive lined heatshrink works well to seal them again. Even non adhesive lined heatshrink works. Use a generous sized piece and a hair dryer. If you use a heatgun, go easy on the heat so you don't melt anything. I had a hole in the vacuum line that runs under the firewall seam. I could not find a replacement hose for this diameter, as it's some weird thin walled hardline. I used an x-acto to clean up the melted hole surface, disassembled the corner elbow with a heatgun and metal spudger and slipped on a piece of heatshrink. It's been working well for 2 years so far. Good luck!

Nice! I put a dash cover on mine too. Ended up needing a lot more velcro than provided in the kit, but well worth it in the long run

Haha Glass jars and plastic bags work well inside ultrasonic machines. I use Isopropyl alcohol for circuit board cleaning because it's non-hazardous (Don't drink it or inhale it for a while) and there is really no issue dumping it. PCB specific cleaners such as Alconix or Branson EC work well, but they require special disposal due to unknown chemical composition, which is not economically feasible for home use. Simple green also works well diluted and can be acquired at most big-box stores. Whenever I use IPA inside my ultrasonic I watch it, leave my tank heater off and make sure the temperature reading on my tank does not get too warm. The process of ultrasonic cleaning raises tank temperature by itself. All those colliding atoms must generate heat lol.

Heck yeah, that looks great! I had a dent in my front member too (the previous owner did not disclose the tree stump he had a disagreement with). I ended up using a chain-fall, eye hooks, ratchet straps and a few hammers to straighten mine. Oh and a big 'ol 15ton lathe was used as the anchor point.

Aww yeah, that has some good bones right there. This is going to be good

That stripe package is worth it's weight in gold.

I use ziploc bags of IPA to clean electronics and it works wonders in an ultrasonic machine filled with tap water. However, make sure to watch the machine because IPA has a low flash point. I've never used gasoline, but it also has a low flash point and can combust. I use simple green most of the time and it works extremely well in an ultrasonic.

Aww yeah

Woah that's some mighty nice work there! Anyways you can spill the deets on where you got the new emissions charcoal canister & heat resistant wire loom?

Aww yeah, nothing like a road trip in the MJ

Excellent Work! Cool to see parts of the MJ I've never explored before

Nice score!

Neat technique. I would have suggested using a 40khz ultrasonic machine, but you sure can't beat a pot + baking soda + boiling water. Easily accessible for anyone. Nice job.

Good to know! Thanks.

I know the 96 booster+master combo has a 1/4in aluminum spacer on the back side from factory. Was there a notch in the firewall for the 96+ XJ? I've never seen one myself lol It sure is possible! I ended up doing the WJ booster+master and notched my firewall seam. I wish I used a 1/4in spacer and not bothered.

Looking mighty good! Nice job.

Looks straight to me! I need to straighten my bumper out. What did you use? A big ol propane heating torch and a hammer? Thanks.

Those seals look mighty good! Nice job. I did the brake booster upgrade, and if I did it again, I'd just add a 1/4in aluminum spacer behind the booster and not notch the firewall. The brake pedal would sit further back into the footwell which would be an added bonus. I find the height difference between the accelerator and brake pedal is substantial.

Rebirth of the Diesel MJs. Aww yeah. This is going to be excellent!