Salvagedcircuit

I was sifting through jeep forum threads, as one does, and this mysterious piece came up. It looks like some kind of blower motor / blower motor vacuum actuator cover. Does anyone know what the official name for this is? I'd like to buy one and CAD it up so others can print one. This looks like a unicorn part to me, I don't think I've ever seen this in my brother's XJ. Wild.

The foam worked. It's a bit of a pain to work in this area, since you have to work entirely by feel, but with a pair of scissors, pencil and a mountain of patience, it worked! It's not an immaculate job, but it certainly is 100x better than what was there previously. My comanche was not down for 2+ days since the hvac box remained in place. I'd call it a win-win

Aww yeah, makes that tedious floor pan job worth it

Hear, hear! So many stories of previousowneritus I lost count

Looks like someone has a new neighbor indeed! https://www.theverge.com/news/658223/slate-factory-electric-truck-location-indiana

Absolutely stellar work right there! Wow. What did you end up choosing as a head unit? Thanks!

Update: Sanded the flap, cleaned it up and painted it today. 2 coats of rustoleum black enamel on both sides with a foam brush. Not the prettiest job, but definitely better than whatever was stock. I taped off the bottom to prevent paint from getting onto the interior if it dripped. I found 2in wide 1/8in thick closed cell foam adhesive backed tape at homedepot in the HVAC aisle. $16 tape, but certainly cheaper and quicker than mcmaster. This tape has a flat black speckled finish that was originally off-putting. Closed cell foam is usually a flat color with no speckles. It turns out the finish was due to a 3M antimicrobial finish. Not a big deal. This is directly after applying 2nd coat of paint. Not the prettiest paint job but it should flatten out a bit as it drys. I'm not aiming for awards here, It just needs to be functional. The tape application is tomorrows project. Now to decide whether to apply just the bottom side or both top & bottom.

Change the rear leaf shackle to the one from an XJ. I believe that's the easiest way. It's like $35 for a set from moog and they lower your rear a little bit.

Here it my heater door as it sits. Viewed from the passenger foot well: Viewed from the blower motor cavity: There is plenty of foam left internally on the opposing side to seal against: I searched around and saw the excellent job @ghetdjc320 did on his HVAC box, but I really don't have any desire to take the HVAC box out right now. I am able to access the steel blend door through the blower motor hole in the firewall. As a temporary fix, I am going to take 400grit sticky sandpaper and clean off the surface rust the best that I can do by hand, clean with alcohol and then apply a rubbery tape or adhesive backed closed cell foam on the front face. I have some polyken tape that might do the trick, but I'm going to hunt around for adhesive backed closed cell foam at homedepot. They may have something close in the heating / plumbing section. Hopefully this will dampen out the rattling noise that seems to occur at ~60mph. It's very possible that was the culprit creating that metal-on-plastic sound I was hearing. Who knows, maybe this temporary fix will become permanent? I'll update with how this goes.

I have a squealing / rattling sound coming from my glovebox area. On my 4hour trip home every 15min or so I would hear what sounds like two pieces of sheet metal tapping against each other / a squealing sound for a minute, then the sound would vanish. This sound would happen around ~62mph. I do not remember having my blower on, I believe it was off. When I got back, with the engine off and the blower on I tapped the back of the blower motor housing with a wood stick. I got the fan to squeal once. It is an original Canadian made blower motor, so It's gotta be an old boy. However, I have a feeling my problem is not from the blower motor itself. I think I have simply uncovered two problems. Questions: -Is there any solution to the rubber air tube fitment on the bottom of the blower motor? I have read many posts with folks complaining the newly produced blower motors have a larger diameter hole and the air cooling tube no longer fits. -Is there a function to the foam shown in the attached photo. Mine is completely missing and it's just an exposed rusted piece of sheet metal showing.

I'd also be interested in one of these spare tire brackets. I'd love to CAD it up and make it available for others to duplicate. Would be a good addition / alternative to the spare tire holder mechanism. Also, I'd be interested in an armrest retainer clip, just to have a spare.

There's only one thing to say:

Woah, excellent photos. Thanks for these! These photos and the ones from @pizzaman09's heated seat guide paint a lot clearer picture of what's needed for a headrest mod. Thanks guys!

Added a tissue box holder. Cut down a standard sized 4.5" cube tissue box to about 1/3 of the original volume. Fits pretty nice and the tissues come out naturally with no fiddling. Uses standard sized 8.3in tissues. Winnner winner, chicken dinner.

Woah, Thanks for all the photos guys! Now I'm curious how the headrests come out. Is there a simple button adjuster and the headrest pulls out like a fork? I'm wondering if I could reuse my seat cover and just make two holes and a plastic trim washer. Interesting...

Does anyone have photos of a bench seat with integrated headrest? I am curious how the seat was modified by chrysler. It looks like the bottom seat foam was formed around the top of the springs, but I don't know how the back was designed. It would be nice if the back foam can be removed without severe destruction. The best case would be removable foam front and the springs on the back side. I'd be happy as a clam if I just need to weld on a bracket and the headrest mechanism from a bucket seat.

I just saw this! Did you see the released marketing materials? They 100% lifted the stripe from the comanche! I have to say, if they manage to make this 20k, it's gonna sell like hot cakes because: Price Simplicity Ride Height. The scion xb sold extremely well to older folks because they could get into/out of it easily. This is not a comanche competitor by any means though. The Slate pickup can tow 1,000lbs and has a 1,433lb payload. Oof, that's low. In comparison, the maverick has 2000lbs/4000lbs towing and 1400-1500lb payload. The bed is the same size as the gladiator. So any 6ft truck has more utility than this. It's more like a modern modular gimped XJ. The MJ & XJ can tow 5000lbs though :/ The suspension has not been discussed in detail yet so the verdict is out. It makes me sad that Jeep, who put the utility in SUV, is being completely washed out by this. They could have owned this modular utility vehicle market but instead they are just going to relabel a fiat and call it a jeep again. This is what should have preceded the XJ (albeit more capability), regardless if it was gas or electric.

Woah, I had no idea this was a thing Added the photos for post longevity. Truly a wild addition

The tonneau cover above is made by Downey. I believe they are out of business. The only tonneau cover I can find for the long bed comanche is one off an s10 longbed: https://www.napaonline.com/accessories/access-tonnosport-tonneau-cover at $315 it's a bit to chew considering tonneau covers for larger bed modern ford pickups are $150

Looking mighty nice

Excellent work

You can try the water bottle trick to stiffen up broken seat belt holders. Water bottles are pete-1 plastic which is very susceptible to heat. Cut the top and bottom off the bottle, slide it over the buckle receiver and use a hair dryer or heat gun. The plastic continues to shrink and contours the item inside the bottle. Use a pete-1 bottle that is close in diameter to the buckle receiver. A bottle too big will not shrink down enough to contour the belt + buckle. I found that a standard water bottle works great. This only works on pete-1 bottles. This will not work at all on the other common hdpe bottles that are used for milk, detergents etc.

Woah boy that's a whole lotta work! Nice job

You know, I didn't even notice that until you mentioned it. The concept of impossibly huge fenders instead of just a separate bed is a foolish one. This is the same problem rivian has with their pickups and the absurd cost of rear fender repair. The design language seems to be very rivian like, and makes me doubt this is from anyone other than rivian.

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