carnuck

Note that early std trans ones don't have the bracket for the TVS cable or the holes for it to screw into..

The other dimmer is the headlight dimmer hi/lo switch.

I've seen the bleeders get so packed with rust they look like they are one piece with no hole.

Make sure the EGR isn't sticky/opening when it shouldn't. The IAC is external on that and more of an idle stop. They need lubing once in awhile. Did you clean the throttle body? Gunge around the plate disrupts the air flow. When you first start it, the computer runs the "ice cold" program (like a choke), then it switches to a "warming up" phase until the engine temp is high enough to switch to the O2 feedback. Look down the throttlebody while it is running and see if fuel is dripping from the injector while it is idling. If so, you need a new o-ring kit although a few times I have pulled them and if it wasn't damaged, re-installed with Silglyde grease to slide it in place so it resealed.

Just be careful you don't use TOO much pressure or the core will pop like an accordion!

Pinion bearing going bad can cause issues like that too. It makes the driveshaft play crack the whip.

There are several rigs already done on http://ifsja.org and http://fsjnetwork.com The biggest factor seems to be engine weight. I think I'd sooner put that motor onto an M715 because it has a beefier frame and the big 3 discovered the hard way stock frames weren't beefy enough to avoid frame cracking but a N/A 6B should be okay.

The T/O bearing is different and there are 2 different spline counts for the trans input shaft. Also keep in mind that the flywheel is different from Renix to HO EFI system. I swapped an AW4 into my '87 and I HAD the C101 connector before. I undid the harness at the firewall and removed the half with the C101 connector and replaced it with a '90 harness from an automatic rig. I could have just swapped 1/2 the drivetrain harness if I had a pre '89 auto harness with the C101 connector. I also swapped the TPS for an auto one but didn't have the holes for the TVS cable bracket. I have another throttle body to put on that does have the bracket.

Too bad it isn't just as easy as putting a turbo on them. The block is stronger and the cylinders have bottom oilers for turbo ones.

Waaaaay too wide for an MJ AND they are off a dually rig.

Sounds like the lower control arm bolts (at the frame) might be slightly loose. Mine did that to me a couple times before I got the double serrated lockwashers.

228 usually doesn't die unless there are mixed axles, mixed tire sizes or no oil in them

For some reason I stopped getting notifications of posts, so this is old news. Did you loosen the temp sender to allow the trapped air to escape?

I fixed mine back when it was still std trans. I think I used a Jtruck Ebrake pedal assembly and I had to drill one hole to make it work (It could've been off something else though. Almost 10 years and a few injuries later it's amazing I still recall my own name!) When my tilt column was still doing the flippity floppity I climbed in on the side of a hill and had to pull slightly on the wheel to make it (33" tires and 5 1/2" lift) and it popped out of park and nearly took out my wife's new car!

Check the dist cap fro moisture and/or crossfiring.

I got an adjustable tracbar for $100 delivered 10 years ago. I think it was Superlift.

Those Faye aftermarket bumpers have a kit to fit MJs. (I have one on mine. 3500lb tow capacity) I still have an extra mount kit to sell too.

Flipped you could. The NP207 would last a few minutes behind a SBC. I killed one with my 4 banger in my '86! The std trans NP207 should be 21 spline deep and the 3 speed auto will be 23 spline shallow. NP207 went away after '87 AFAIK and replaced with NP231. Later 4 cyl with AW4 auto are 21 spline like the Renix 6 cyls. HO went to 23 spline deep and tcases became New Venture by '93.

I have hooked up 1 wire alternator to the pinion to charge a battery in the back for electric brakes in the event of a breakaway and lights for camping (I have a 4D battery for my cabin).

If you unhook the wire the gauge should drop. If not, then I'd be looking for a new gauge.

You would have to manual shift all the gears if that was the problem. Make sure the TVS cable isn't bound up or disconnected. I know there is a 1-2 shift issue but can't recall what it was but http://www.radesignsproducts.com/ made a rig for manual shifting it.

I used 7" TJ coils (and STILL drive slightly uphill empty but level with my canopy and almost level with 2200 lbs of gravel), extended lower arms (Wish I'd bought the '00+ Grand Cherokee ones with inward curve to them so my tires didn't touch at full turn), '87 Wrangler brake hoses (they match to the year of your Comanche), Adjustable tracbar and home made shock extenders (shocks were brand new at the time I converted from 2wd 10 years ago) 4WD tierods are bigger. I used a ZJ set I had from a '93 I parted. Otherwise the adjuster sleeve tends to come loose once a month driving rough roads.

Another possibility is the battery post has melted off inside. Does a jump start have power at all times? A cable can look great on the outside and still be greener than an Irishman on St Patrick's day on the inside.

Is the starter coming loose? (I mean the through bolts holding the body together)

It's possible they aren't NHTSA approved.