carnuck

At least all you need to do is pull the stupid fill bottle (even easier if you did the rad upgrade to open system when you put the new one in and elminated that thing) and take off those 3 nuts/screws holding it in. Usually 1/2 hour or less.

I hear that! I have a matching pair of 3.73s (D30 vacuum front and D35 rear that is SOA correctly except the shock mounts, but they work) that I'll be swapping out when I'm feeling better for non-vac 4.10 front and 8.8 or 8.25 with 4.10 rear. Then my axles will be for sale.

The valve being replaced won't help if the hose to it isn't getting vacuum. As long as the temp goes up on the gauge, you can apply vacuum directly to the valve to get heat happening. If the vacuum ball (in the stupidest place, behind the right front bumper corner) is cracked, some things may work and others won't.

Sweet brow! Later, if I find a cab as rust free as I have now, I'll swap the one on my Honcho. For now though, I wish I could access it to get it running!

You want '80-83 Wagoneer, 4 dr Cherokee (2 drs can be wide track), or Grand Wagoneer axles for ease of fit. D44 front and either M21 (Model 20's stronger brother) or D44 rear ('87 up)

When they were younger did you get them a Barbie Jeep?

You have to pull the ring gear and carrier (one piece) from a CAD axle to put a seal behind the carrier if you replace the 2 piece shaft or you won't be able to keep oil in the axle and water/mud out.

Did you change the oil? If it was flooded before the oil would be thinned out.

It had Grand Wagoneer axles swapped in and handled quite well up to 70 mph. The biggest benefit to it was 30 mpg with the turbo diesel Nissan SD33T with a Mopar big block 727 behind it and NP208 tcase. They came with a 1/2 ton counter ballast because their original use was moving up to Boeing 727 size planes around on the runway.

Look above the gas pedal first. The vacuum hose on the defrost controller tends to come off from someone putting their foot too high up and kicking it.

A hammer does a nice job of removing the bellhousing from the trans when the top two &$^#%$@* Edrive bolts round the heads off even WITH a Snap-on E-12 socket!

No 4.0L in an '86? :brows: I beg to differ... hahaha... My 86 has a 5.2! I think we're talking "from the factory" here. :yes: Just the same as "no shortbox" yet I had one on my '86 I was going to extend the cab on. :laughin:

Make sure there are no extra spaces with the url between the brackets too.

Make sure there aren't any rocks stuck in the bottom loop of the coil spring too.

They are 1 ton based on weight capacity, not tire size. The 1 ton D44 axle tubes are thicker to prevent bending with the extra weight.

I got rid of my death wobble by removing 2 shims each side on the lower control arm at the body to push the caster back slightly.

The spline that goes through the clutch (the trans input shaft) can be one of 2 different diameters. Older, smaller one is the same as BA 10/5 but the newer one is larger and won't fit. Not sure what year they did the change.

1 and 6 tend to wear the most due to uneven cooling. I would do a sonic check before boring. '91-95 blocks were "weakest" due to too much metal taken out for lightening. Thats why later years got a bolt in "ribcage" aka girdle to beef them up. I saw a '91 that cracked top to bottom and the only thing holding it together was the head and oilpan!

Are you sure you have constant spark? A single arc with the key on/off but nothing else says bad CPS.

http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/rigs/1986-CJ10A/0_best-of-CJ-10A.html

Or loosen the bottom front while bleeding. It's the return line and air gets trapped in it that can't get out any other way.

D44 and 8.25 as well as 8.8 are stronger. Matching the ratio is tougher. I'm about to pull the 3.73 axles from mine to go to 4.10s but I have to wait till after Christmas.

I'd sure like to convert to a cable shifter in mine, but can't afford it right now. All I have to do is drill 4 holes in the floor while the trans is being replaced and the stock shifter will line up.

It's definitely not a good vehicle to tow with in bad weather. I towed an '82 Eagle SX4 from nearly the CA border to Seattle at 55-70 mph (over 55 wasn't allowed in Oregon on I-5) and the only casualty was the auto trans (which is getting changed out very soon), but that was because the cooler in the rad was plugged with gum or sealer since new and I had only 2 weeks before converted to auto. A J10 or even better a J20 or M715 will give you what you need in counterbalance weight AND braking power. My '73 J4000 was about 1/2 way between a J20 and an M715. D44 front and D60 full float rear (not original) This pic is me towing a '91 E350 28' box truck with 7.3L diesel and a full load of old CRT TVs.

You have to change the spring pads on the axle anyways. I did 1.5" inboard on each side when I did mine 11 years ago on my D35.