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About MrSimon

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    Comanche Aficionado

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  • Location
    Downingtown, PA
  1. I need a new steering column in good working condition, with keys. Do not want column shift. Glenmoore, PA
  2. I absolutely love Craigslist!!!!! But there is an art to finding the deal you're looking for. Once you've done it for a while, you get really good at quickly sorting the crap from the gems. Also, you have to watch it every day and be ready to move quick and fast.
  3. Read, read, and read some more. There is literally an endless supply of information on the web. And then, after it all completely confuses you ..... just do something and see how it goes. After all, there is no perfect choice. If you are new to modifying Jeeps, the best way to learn is to DO. No amount of internet reading can replace real world experience. But with all that said, I'd recommend searching the classifieds for a set of used adjustable lower AND upper arms. Being able to dial in your caster angle helps with road manners a lot.
  4. If I read it right, you need to re-build/replace your failing 4.0. Some of your goals are to drive it to Alaska for back-country moose hunting, and you want it to last a few 100 thousand miles. A stroker might not be your best option. They do give some extra power, but they aren't known for longevity. Plus they cost more from the get go and will put more stress on things like the trans, transfer case, gears, suspension, etc. It's not a TON more stress, but it would add up over the years. $2,400 is a lot of money to spend on an old engine. Have you considered replacing it with a newer 4.0 from a Cherokee? You could find a nice donor XJ and have a shop swap the motor over for about the same price. Depending on your current truck, you might also get an upgrade to your cooling system, axles, transmission, transfer case etc etc. A few years back, I bought a wrecked, low mileage 99 XJ for $500 and paid a shop $2k to swap everything into my MJ. I did pay a few extra hundred bucks to have them do a full tune-up of the engine when they put it in .... new seals, gaskets, plugs, hoses etc.
  5. Any more specifics on what you mean? Screwdriver in the cylinder, jumping the solenoid, or doing something to the ignition switch on the column. Even through the cylinder is drilled out, it won't turn .... at least not properly enough to engage the ignition switch correctly. Essentially I need to "bypass" the cylinder by messing with the ignition switch.
  6. I finally found a totally rust free MJ in Richmond VA. I went down there, bought it, and drove it to my brothers house 50 miles away with zero problems. 65MPH on Rt. 95 after sitting for a year. RENIX baby!! I shut the key off and the key cylinder locked up ... it was pretty wonky to begin with, and the whole column really should be replaced. We drilled it out so the wheel is unlocked. To get it home to fix it properly, I need to essentially hotwire the thing. I researched the ignition switch wire colors and know what is hot, starter, accessories, etc etc. What I really want to know is where is the best place to tap into the wires? There seem to be two sets of wires going up into the bottom of the column. Any ideas which one is the right one to mess with? Ideally I'd like to find a connector that I can un-plug and jam some paper clips into. Any suggestions?
  7. I've had Detroit lockers, Aussie lockers, ARB with full York driven OBA set-up, and Zip lockers with a small under-hood tankless compressor. Here are my thoughts: Air lockers are VERY susceptible to not working right. Like was said above, air lines can leak, solenoids can stop working, relays can lose a good ground, wires corrode, compressors crap out, switches break etc. When air lockers work properly, they are fantastic!!!!! Full OBA set-ups are totally not needed to actuate air lockers. Small tank-less compressors work great and are easy to install. Detroit lockers are freaking awesome! Cheaper than air lockers, easy to install, no fuss, decent dry road manners and phenomenal off-road traction. I don't really like having the front locked full time though ... it makes turning hard while wheeling. Pretty sketchy on slick roads though. If that thing unloads in rain or snow, good chance you go into a spin. Lunchbox lockers - mostly the same pros/cons as Detroit, but cheaper .... not a full case locker though, so less strength than a Detroit and won't stand up to abuse of big tires or big power. Love these little things though. ARB and Yukon air lockers are very similar. I have Yukon right now cause the dealer close to me gets great prices and any warranty issues can go through him. I like that. A properly installed and maintained air locker is probably the best all-around set-up. You just have to be diligent in maintaining it. More than likely you WILL have issues to work out after the initial install, but once it's all dialed in, you'll be thrilled.
  8. Here is an update: I traded the green MJ for a trunk full of guns, sold off or parted out all the junk XJs, and finished up building the green 00 XJ. It's a sweet sleeper build with gears, air lockers, long arms, inner air beadlocks etc ... but it's still fairly low and plain looking with only 33" tires. I love it!
  9. NAXJA is having it's annual wheeling event at Rausch Creek Offroad Park this June 23-25. It will be a great three days of wheeling, camping, and hanging out with other XJ and MJ owners. Rumor has it the raffle this year will have a lot of great prizes too!! More info here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=369
  10. Bump. Still for sale. Now included are a nice set of black leather seats from a 96 XJ Country, a full center console, and really nice door panels with the wood trim to match the dash panel.
  11. You will be fine. Don't forget to pound down the pinch seem inside the front wheel wells. I ran 3" with 31s for some pretty heavy duty wheeling without any issues. You'll have no problems with 32s and mild stuff.
  12. Will a 231 transfer case from an 87 MJ with the 2.5L 4speed be a direct swap into an 89 MJ with the 4.0 AW4? Both trucks are 4x4.
  13. 200HP on the ground is a ton for an MJ. If you go much more than that you'll have to upgrade the trans, TC, axles, drive shafts, cooling system, suspension, etc. That's big big money. Strokers are perfect for people who want a noticeable increase in power with a mostly plug and play swap. If you need more power than that, then a V8 swap will certainly do it. Just be ready for a big project.
  14. Because of this thread I did a bunch of reading last night on V8 swaps and building up strokers .... mostly because both are AWESOME :yes: :yes: It seems like the 4.8 or 5.3 Vortec is a popular option. There is a ton of info out there on the swap and you can even buy adapter kits easily. Seems like this swap runs in the $3k range if you do it right - maybe less if you get a smoking deal on the motor/trans and do all the work yourself. The 4.6 or 4.7 strokers are also popular, and put out some impressive numbers ... especially in torque (more than the 5.3 even). The beauty of the stroker is that it's a direct drop in replacement. They seem to run in the same ballpark as a V8 swap. I guess it comes down to what you like .... or what you have available. Personally, I love the idea of picking up a decent 4.0 from Craigslist for a couple hundred bucks .... building it into a stroker in the garage .... then dropping that 275HP torque monster into my Jeep in one evening after work.
  15. I've run drop brackets and long arms both quite a bit. They both work fine. Most people don't push their trucks hard enough to even feel the benefits of long arms (although they do offer a slightly smoother ride even on the road). For me, I switched to long arms because I was tired of having the drop brackets get hung up in the rocks. The LAs act as long smooth skids and slide over rocks that used to hang me up. This is a pic of me going through some stuff on LAs without getting stuck .... where I used to get hung up a lot on DBs. If I didn't wheel in stuff like this, then I don't think I'd have LAs. But since I do, I freak'n love the LAs and will never go back.
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