carnuck

Could be fuel filter or TPS is getting moisture in it. I had to spray my '86's sensor twice a year. Sometimes the wires to the injector get frayed too. You can get "carb icing" with the TBI as well if the hot air hose from the exhust to the airfilter box is missing and you are in high air moisture and just above freezing temps. And as Cruiser54 points out, check your grounds because the spark will cut out if the coil loses ground.

in WA it's illegal to take them after hitting them unless in season and you have a tag (guess how I found out?)

If you were close to Seattle... I have a NP219 for $100 that is a direct swap. It doesn't have 2wd as an option but if you have a vacuum front diff, you can shift to 4 hi lock (AKA Edrive) and use a dash vacuum switch to unlock the front diff for 2wd. As for the current setup, part time 4x4 should lock front and rear driveshaft. I have a NP229 (almost the same) in my Eagle that has 2wd, 4 hi coupled (full time), neutral and 4 low lock. 4 hi doesn't lock. Another option is a Jeep (not other brand) NP208 (found in '80 to '88 Jtrucks and some of the other '80 up FSJs) but you will need a rear driveshaft about 5-6" longer. It's the same as NP231 but stronger. The 904 is 23 spline, but it's a shallow output.

904 is the 3 speed auto on 2.5Ls. The bellpattern is the same as 700R4 used in S10s with 2.8 V6 but if you have TBI or MPFI, you need the tone ring too. If you can find an AW4 for the 2.5, it's awesome too, but really rare out here.

Same motor with some external differences as forklift. Nissan used that motor in Patrols too. Did you get the adapter? Nissan used Jatco transmissions for automatics. I can't recall the std trans (bell swaps with other 4 cyls and some 6 cyls) I like the LD28 and SD33 turbo (used in many Jeeps and Scouts)

It could be just a leaky oring on the dist.

IIRC the 2.5L has a water passage? If so, the water/antifreeze can be sucked into the motor.

I've done the drill "patch" but things vibe after so I'd say emergency only! D44 have ubolt style yokes available and earlier AMC M15s used U bolts too.

Is the motor running with a weird RPM related vibe? When the torque converter goes bad they will do that. The 9XX neck cracks and causes a vibe and gets worse very quickly. If it doesn't, then it's probably just the front seal.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/947849-6at-cummins.html

I replaced the foot pedal on mine with one from my parts pile that matched close. It either came from a '77 AMX or Grand Wagoneer.

Not true unless it doesn't come with bellhousing. 4 and 6 don't interchange. Make sure it's not 2wd because the trans has to be taken apart and the output and tailstock changed to make it 4x4, Sounds like it may be 23 spline which won't work with your tcase if you have Renix EFI because it will be 21 spline.

4.0L never got the 904 in XJ or MJ stock. YJs did till '00. 08/86 is '87 model year but leftover parts were used till Chrysler did the full takeover..

Just wait till the north pole moves down over about Michigan. (or maybe DC to counteract the hot air coming from there)

904 lockup auto was the only factory auto for the 4 cyl till '88. It could be the dipstick tube or the torque converter neck had a groove worn into it.

That's not a hemi unless the plugs/wires come into the valve cover from the far side? I had one of the Ozzy built slant 6 twin cam hemi conversions years ago in a boat. I sold the carbs off it to a guy running a slant 6 Dart in N Seattle about 5 years back. http://static.ddmcdn.com/gif/hemi-pent-roof.gif

You can see a bend in the body if you look along the door line. I lay odds the right front corner is accordioned enough a rad won't fit right either. My son's ex-GF did the identical thing (hit a dark colored XJ at night when police were chasing a stolen car and the thief cut her off) I had enough parts to patch it up except a rad.

Seal-all glue.

Maybe there's grass on the field now? :rotf:

If you have a fan shroud, be careful it doesn't get crunched.

4 low isn't coupled. The carrier that the planetary of the 228 or the viscous coupler of the 229 is bypassed when it goes into low range. 219 has a variable front to rear in low range unless the Edrive switch is engaged but it was gone before XJs and MJs came out. '87 was the last year the little Jeeps got 228/229 as well but the Full Size Jeeps (FSJs) kept the NP229 till the end. They also had NP208 as a cheap option. It's the bigger, stronger brother to the NP207. All the FSJ cases '80 up are 23 spline and driver's side drop. AMC Eagle used similar cases with no low range NP119 80-81, NP129 '82 to '88 with NP128 in '86 as a "cheaper" replacement because the viscous coupler was so expensive. Even now used ones can command about $500 but no-one has bought the 2 I have for sale. (Ebay is next) If you pull the drain plug and black goop drips out, it's most likely a NP129 and the silicone "oil" acts like liquid sand on the internals of the transfercase. If he crawls underneath and looks at the driveshafts while it's going nowhere in 4 hi, the front shaft will be spinning (NP228) or if nothing, the viscous coupler of the NP229 is toast. Once in a blue moon the planetary of NP228s get lunched but that's generally caused by 2 different ratio axles being used. for more fun http://oljeep.com/edge_tcase.html The ONLY difference between NP228 and NP229 is planetary vs viscous coupler. If the front shaft spins, just permanently engage the front vacuum diff and you should be fine.

Swap out and upgrade while you're at it.

The 242 I have now had a BA 10/5 in front of it. I couldn't find a 23 spline 242 for reasonable cost here so I had to buy another AW4 after the new rad I got that had a "plug" inside the cooler from the factory cooked the one I put in last spring.

My wife told me to step up selling mine. :(

Sounds like the viscous coupler is gone (if it's NP229) Or the front diff isn't engaged (if it's NP228)