carnuck

Did you pull the needle over the top speed end post?

If you can, get Castrol GTLMA or Amsoil brake fluid so it lasts longer

I'm using my '87 std trans ECM with a '90 auto harness and AW4 with zero probs. The fuel curves are slightly different auto vs stick but aftermarket shows 87 to 90 4.0 the same except auto vs stick.

I reset mine some time ago. Probably time for it to light up again.

There was a big discussion on the strokers board about the swap some time ago. Some folks thought they got 75 HP boost from the swap, then they were unhappy when it didn't happen. All the magic in the HO system isn't in the head, you see. Alone it is worth about 15 HP. Add the better flowing intake for a bit more (especially the '01 up) but the big kick is the HO injectors. Right about here is when the ping monster rears it's head. Mopar dealt with that by retarding the cam and cutting back on the engine timing curve so they could do away with the EGR valve. If you are expecting massive power increase, unless you do pretty much the whole swap, it will be somewhat disappointing.

A lot of people mistook the Chrysler 9.25 as a Dana 60. I thought about swapping one in my Comanche but regearing to 4.10 is spendy.

I used to pack a spare ignition slider switch in my testing equipment box. You can unplug the harness and plug the switch in to test with a screwdriver without taking the column apart. Take care not to push the slider too far or the power will cut out. Tilt and non-tilt use different switches, but they are wired the same (just reversed direction for the slider). They are also a common GM one.

When you lifted the rear, did you extend the load level arm rod to match? If not, try undoing the rod and pushing the arm up then try driving it (zip lock the arm up) I bypassed mine a long time ago.

On the Older Jeeps gauges were for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality was purely coincidental!

Did you compare the complete engine weights?

No answers after my tips? Are you kidding me? Check with some of the folks on these forums. Why do I get "thank you" PMs almost daily because I stuck with them? I'm not positive? I'm positive I don't want folks taking poor advice and spending their time and money chasing down yours, or anyone else's rabbit trail. I don't help people? Your "outside the box" thinking is extremely distracting not only to the folks seeking help, but to those of us who have to go back in and straighten things out after you've "shotgunned" multiple posts with mostly nonsense. I'm thinking "out of the box" is just another excuse for irresponsible posting. If you call this "taking care not shooting from the hip", you're saying 2 things. One is that you have been shooting from the hip until recently. Since when? When I called you on it? And two, what if I hadn't done that? Would it have continued? I made a noted effort to say in my previous posts that not ALL of your info or advice was bad. Go re-read that. Now you're the victim....... I care about these people. I don't want them to waste time and money, and I don't wanna waste my time or anyone else's cleaning up after your "out of the box" suggestions. You've admitted that you were "kidding" when I challenged you, or that you had some other issue like dyslexia or the like and sometimes got stuff backwards. Holy crap, man. How is that my fault? If you truly have issues regarding dyslexia or other maladies, please try using some extra effort before posting. Who is leaving because I challenged you? Anyone out there? Post up. I wanna know. Are you thinking I am paid for what I do, and you're not? ....Sheesh. I took some time off and thought about my reply before coming back. When I said I was kidding, I was only half kidding because it was entirely doable but the cost of parts varies everywhere in this country. Not everyone has a pull-a-part in their area where they can get a whole motor in unknown condition for $100. You do things by the book, which is the right thing to do unless it doesn't work. The OP posted that he did what you said to do and refreshed all grounds, etc and still it's not even trying to start. I waited for you to offer him another solution. Nothing from you was posted so I offered the next step and you attacked me. Sets a nice example, doesn't it? His last post on the board: " 10 March 2014 - 02:08 AM There's no spark. I've tested the new one and it's putting off .5. Could it w the computer I'm stuck any ideas?" Most people who leave don't bother saying why. They just go. I care about these people too or I wouldn't be coming here to give free advice. Never said you got paid to do it. There are different types of repair people out there. Parts shotgunners, who load the parts gun with everything they can/can't afford and pull the trigger. Then they get upset if it doesn't work. By the book: Follow the steps and if that doesn't fix it, do it again and again until it does work. If that doesn't cure it, you must've done something wrong. Previous experience. "I had one that did that and this is what worked for me". I had one old guy with a '55 Dodge with flathead that was 6 volt. When it wouldn't start, he would turn on the headlights for 3 minutes, then it would. Turned out he flooded the carb so sitting cleared it out and the headlights on warmed up the battery post so the moisture between it and the clamp dried up and it started. There are different ways of approaching a problem but in the end the cure is still going to be the cure. My question is why are you so angry?

Non traditional engine? Look at the 2004 Isuzu Rodoe 3.5 V6. Gasoline Direct Inection, 250 hp.@ 5600 rpm, 246lb/ft at 3000 rpm. Aluminum block and Heads, 10.3 compression runs on 87 oct. gas. Engine weight is about 450 lbs. Best of all the automatic transmission is our own AW4. Does the transfer case line up for the Jeep? Don't know. Guess I should look at my 4X4 Rodeo and my sister-in-laws 4X4 XJ. The enine is close to bullet proof, good low end torque and a 6200 rpm. Much better 4 valve head than the non crossflow 2 valve Jeep head. If the trans is the same version of AW4 that Jeep uses then you "should" be able to use the Isuzu bell and torque converter on the Jeep trans. I don't know if there is enough space for the motor width-wise at that point. If there is, then motor mounts and a big enough rad will do most of the swap if the steering doesn't interfere with the pan or exhaust.

I used a '97 ZJ booster/master last year with the matching brake pedal so nothing else was modded to fit. I found a universal light switch with bracket that I fastened with a screw that was already above there. Sorry I don't recall the switch part number.

Seems like you say that on every site we're both on. Attitude is everything. Mine is positive about trying to help people, even if it's outside the "box". I notice that after people go through your tips and the ones that don't have it fixed by that point, you seem to have no answers for them so you stop posting. You do a good service with your grouping of what to do first and they really should listen to that. Calling anything people do or suggest that is outside your box wrong is a disservice. I have been taking care to NOT shoot from the hip, yet you still treat me like I'm the enemy. If I post something wrong, call me on it. I'm man enough for that. Saying that NOTHING I do or say is right is wrong and there are people leaving because of it. I am here to truly help people. I'm not paid to do it.

If it's actually going into 2wd but the light is staying on the switch could be sticky on the tcase. Often that is also a sign of the tcase being low on fluid so I would pull the fill plug on the back and top it off. Since they only take a couple quarts, I usually go with the synthetic fluid. You could switch the front axle to a cable operated Posi-lock style.

Also see if the vacuum hose is off the vacuum motor right above the gas pedal. A new vacuum ball is about $17 at Napa. Here's mine mounted under the hood (my bumper is extended forward for a hideaway winch)

If you search on top of the tube near the pumpkin there is a number string (BOM) that can be used to look up the correct parts. It "should" be SKF 13165 or National 5131 depending on that number. Spicer 44 Axle Thru Serial CE0000 is what covered the '77 F350 crewcab front axle I put in my Jtruck.

something totally new. (not yet available, but interesting setup blending rotary and piston technology) http://pixelbark.com/13045/how-the-duke-engines-increases-the-efficiency-of-the-internal-combustion-engine

You can buy a 4.5" kit for less then a good SOA if you do it right and it is complete. Granted some of the 4.5" kits aren't ver complete either. I just offered another option that "shouldn't" cost more. I did that myself putting an XJ axle in mine. I even run OEM shocks but the mounts I made weren't as elegant as I have found since. I also replaced my springs at the same time with Metric Tonne ones and converted to 4x4 so I could clear 33/9.50/15 tires. I even run stock ebrake cables. I just moved the floor brackets slightly. You have to add shock mounts when you do an 8.25 swap as well. I have swaybar plates from an early Jtruck (you can probably use CJ aftermarket ones. Test fit them to the shock lower bushing) which are flat plate with a mount stud. You will need a longer spring centering bolt to pass through the plate and into the axle's centering hole. I'm not one to re-use spring U-bolts, but the 8.25 is a wider tube and the spring plate off the D35 won't fit either.

And he already did as you suggested (no argument that is necessary to be done first, but he HAS done them) with no results so I offered him the next logical step.

Exactly. Even with the special equipment at Hayes Rotaries it was hard to build the 1.1 or the 1.3L but the last one in the US was the RX8 turbo @ '06. There's even a couple for sale here in Seattle http://www.royrobinsonsubaru.com/tcd/inventory/used/Mazda/RX-8/?tcdkwid=25289952&tcdcmpid=19758&tcdadid=33362443421&locale=en_US The RX7 remodel may be coming back in 2016 as a hybrid. .33L (not a typo) with electric. http://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/mazda-rx-7-return-2016

And you know what it is how? I was joking around. If you have no sense of humour, you should at least have common sense but it's not so common anymore. :peek:

More like going at it in a logical manner. Find out what works and what doesn't. Especially since he did what you said to do first and still has no spark. According to your own logic, it should be running by now.

Since he's welding on spring pads anyways, how much extra work is it? (I know. I know. He has to lift the front to match)

I guess because the truck is a Mazda this was enough for another one of your irrelevant posts? What was the point of that comment? Yes because it was a Mazda. That and I got to check out an RX8 turbo today but I was too sick to drive it. Dude was playing Ken Block with it.