carnuck

On my ‘88 short box I went from 2wd to SOA rear with 7” TJ coils in front for softer ride and they sat only 5.5” taller with 33/9.5/15 tires on a daily driver. Extended lower arms (I should’ve run WJ curved ones because my tires touched the arm on hard corners at low speed ) and adjustable tracbar with YJ brake hoses (same year as my Comanche) and 3” longer front shocks. I had planned to put my Jtruck swaybar plates between the rear springs and axle pads to attach the stock rear shocks in place similar to where they were. I used D44 front springplates from the FSJ to clamp it all together. The rear brake hose was moved down the bypassed load level sensor arm’s bracket and the extra line capped off at both ends with a plug in the valve. I also went with AMC Eagle wagon rear wheel cylinders to increase rear braking (1/16” larger bore) with Grand Cherokee booster and newer XJ master cylinder. If you’re converting to 4x4, then ZJ tierod setup is beefier. The only front part I didn’t fix was the sway bar end links. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did one in winter that the owner hadn’t put antifreeze in. I did the rubber plug with the nut to tighten it as a test which lasted till about a year ago. Make sure it’s the plug and not the back of the head gasket with a mirror. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bandaid on a bullet wound. It might feel better and stop the bleeding but it’s still going to fester and eventually the patient will die from the infection. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I was going to suggest PB’Laster and reverse drill bit and grabbers. I make a tiny hole in the center of the bolt then run the grabber in. (Looks like a bit with small “wings” that grab the bolt at Speed to spin it out. ) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess they didn’t think it was important to have one before 1973 then. It’s an add on kit for most Jeeps and many other live axle vehicles prior to that. Shopping carts do that same shake but then they don’t have tierods to help fight it. Speaking of which, split Y systems like our MJs encourage the problem when lifted without correcting the Ackerman angle close to original and flattening out the plane of the tierods so the tires aren’t constantly doing the toe-in/toe-out dance. Vehicles other than solid axle have the steering stabilizers too. The AMC Eagle is IFS with CV axles to a frame mounted diff. Nissan, ‘88+GM, and Toyota 4x4s have them as well. Anti-swaybars helped a lot too. I remember putting a solid bar between the front shackles of a CJ5 in ‘76 or so to tame down it’s road manners. I guess they didn’t teach us the right reason for the stabilizer back in the motorpool. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It covers the symptoms but it’s job is to cushion the driver from sudden curb hits and potholes.

On Tapatalk for iPhone it’s right next to each reply button at the bottom of each post. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No like for the no alternative to FB but like for Pete Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I get these messages, I go to the thread but no new posts. I clicked like. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went simple on it with a $20 Sony Walkman CD knockoff that has surprisingly decent sound and unless you drop it, it hasn’t skipped yet. Plugs right into the factory radio in the wife’s Kia. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It should have been given to the Liberty but in hindsight, KJ for Krap Jeep is more appropriate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I lost interest in them after the first Rubicon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

According to the Wrangler Wikipedia it’s unofficial to differentiate between regular and extended TJs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Back to the OP’s question. If everything is tight and balanced in the front then you need to find out what’s out of alignment. Your tires will wear fast but slightly toeing in stopped it on mine till I could afford an alignment. Extreme Death wobble on manual steering is less common and really says alignment issues. Was it lifted at all? Are the rims stock or offset different than stock? Any tires with lumps? (Lift and spin the tire to see) Worn axle ujoints can play crack the whip if wheel bearings have the slightest slop. Brakes that drag can overheat the rotors. (I found out one of mine is after driving 30 miles but not bad yet) Have airsoft pellets thrown in when you change tires to help keep it balanced and check the rims for straightness before installing. Make sure the bolts holding the lower control arms aren’t loose or the shims holding nuts aren’t loose either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you replace the ignition slider? I lube the linkages while it’s out and the key portion as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It sure did and they never intended for it to have a standard transmission so the size of the bell didn’t matter as much because transmission torque converter design improved since the big block days but changing the starter under the Northstar V8 intake in a Jeep sounds like a nightmare job. My God daughter’s mom had a caddy with 4.1L and it was horrible to work on plus GM refused to warranty it when the water pump went out and it started to run like crap. After trying for 2 years, she gave up and we did the 4.9L swap. She drove a ‘78 Matador with 304 during that time which had its own idiosyncrasies but was easy to fix 90% of the time. We met when the flexplate and starter were stuck engaged and she had her 4 kids in the car on the way to a job interview. I got it going in two seconds after she had fought with it for an hour and it turned out she was my neighbor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

4.5, 4.9L and Northstar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So it’s an odd fire? That’s what the 84-86ish 2.8s have. But then my memory isn’t as good as it was. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There was a kit to mount the FWD motor in place of the RWD version but the dist for carb version isn’t dependent on an internal sensor for # 1. Caddy FWD V8s can be bolted in too but cooling and transmission longevity suffers. I considered using an AX-15 with the Dodge Dakota 2.5L bell and clutch/flywheel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When XJS went to HO in ‘91, speedometer cables went away by ‘92. YJs in ‘91 only had a pass through sensor that could be adapted for speedo cable as well as the trans controller for the AW4 or electronic speedometer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As long as the timing chain is set right, you won’t hurt it. If the timing firing order is 165432 then you need to find the overlap of #4 (where intake and exhaust are both closed but slightly turning the motor either way opens on or the other) That is where #1 should be at TDC and ready to fire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had planned to swap ECU anyways because I know they are different but I had the thought about how the TCU harness is between the C101 connector and the motor. I realize now the motor side would have to be on the chassis side or the C101 connector wouldn’t be as big. I know the plug on the ECU is different (wider connections on the 4 cyl one to the harness). On a different thought, what about using the TBI on the 6 cyl? It was brought up on the RENIXPower group a few years back. They use the same coil and ignition module but the TBI has no distributor sensors to tell TDC. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would start at 10 degrees static timing advance. I used to know all that stuff from setting Chev Celebrity with 2.8L but the bigger motor probably doesn’t have the offset crank that the smaller motor tried with an external balance before ‘86. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For a novice, a plastic drinking straw or screw in “stop” would be better. Less chance of damage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk