carnuck

Whoever said only driver’s side fibbed. I put power windows in mine and got tired of fighting with the ladder tapes. I kept the power mirrors and went back to manual windows. If the motor isn’t grounded well enough, it will work backwards. (Found that out on my Eagle wagon too) There’s a number of online groups for full size rigs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Put a spoonful of fuel in the throttlebody after all else. Then if it doesn’t start you may have a burnt through ignition rotor. I would go after Cruiser54’s Renix maintenance first. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s also synthetic low moisture absorbing. I wonder if I still have an Oem cap on my clutch master? They were built originally by Girling for Toyotas. I had the same cylinder on my 1.6L ‘72 Corolla and Hilux pickup with just a different rod coming out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mis-Alignment also causes death wobble. My Comanche’s front end was all new with shocks, brakes, bearings and a 3” lift. We headed out to Ouray and everything was great till we got to CDA. A semi-truck in front of us hit one of those slabs on the road and tipped down the far end, which made out end come up about 3 inches. Banging that at 70 mph caused the first DW I’d even felt at the wheel. I slowed and it stopped shaking but then it was fine till Ouray. After I stopped at the Kragen store and ordered a slave cyl kit, their delivery driver (wife of the District Manager) backed into the left front wheel and my tires squealed and 2 wore to the cords before we left the campground (killed our wheeling trip) By the time we got back home all our tires wore through to cords and both spares were shredded. We couldn’t drive at 55 without wobble (accelerated through it was okay) and at 73 it shook again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

5 on 5 pattern for the front may require a knuckle swap out (I’ll ask my son. He’s played with ZJ and WJ front bearings recently) We compared in case I needed a spare bearing for my MJ from the ZJ he put new axles and bearings in right after he did his WJ ones. Except the wheel pattern, they looked identical side by side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do my own bleeding and rebuild kit if I can. External slave seals were $7 last I bought. Some Chinese ones were assembled backwards (seals facing wrong way) I took several apart and reseated them correctly with a dab of PBR rubber grease or Castrol GTLMA fluid. The number of reman calipers with the pistons in backwards was crazy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It could be the ignition slider is going bad too. Mine did that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The original system wants Castrol GTLMA brake fluid. If your clutch pedal is even slightly bent then it will cause a leak from the clutch master and make bleeding them near impossible. I have done it with a suction tool. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That distributor with the extra wire is spark timing controlled along with EFI. Depending on your carb/ ignition requirements, this one from an '80 Chevy Citation with 2.8L is simple as they come. I ran mine with an aftermarket carb and the cap and rotor from a '77 Nova with 250 inline 6 motor and external coil but we weren't doing a Jeep MJ or XJ with it so I'm not sure about firewall clearance. (Postal Jeep had more room) https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1980,citation,2.8l+173cid+v6,1040421,ignition,distributor,7108

I saw a '67ish Jeepster 1/2 cab soft top for sale in Auburn, WA yesterday but I was too ill to check on it. (You KNOW I was sick when that happens) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All 3 relays (fuel pump, AC and cooling fan IIRC) appear to be missing. Is the crank sensor still on the bell housing? I'd remove it first to prevent damage if this was my Jeep. On the AX15, I would swap it in rather than chance the BA-10/5 was toast already. It's a lot of work for nothing otherwise. The pilot bearing in the crank is different but I can't recall what else changed on those. Different slave maybe? That would get you the bolts you need at the same time. Make sure you swap the AX15 along with the tcase to avoid the 21 spline vs 23 spline problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My fever broke during the night and I feel more "normal" (whatever that is). I found a couple '86 XJs with 2.5L and T5s so I figured it might be a "Till the Chrysler takeover" kind of thing. Like the CJ7s did till the YJ came out in '87. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The shifter is the easiest way for a novice to tell which transmission you have. 3 bolts holding it on is BA 10/5, 4 bolts is AX series (AX4 or AX5 with 4 cyl, depending on whether it is 4 speed or 5 speed. 4.0L came with AX15 5 speed starting in '89 with some dealer replacements of the BA 10/5 under warranty in older models before that. ) The Tremec series trans used in pre '88 XJ, CJ Jeeps, AMC Eagles and stupidly some Full Size 81-84 Jtrucks with 4.2L was a light duty T5 that died quickly due to only holding 1 quart of fluid and having too much flexing of the main shaft away from the countershaft. It wasn't the world class high performance trans used in Mustangs with the 5.0L. Someone thought it would work fine when they converted the metric strength to standard but like with the BA 10/5 they used the wrong conversion factor and neglected the added load of being 4x4 to the equation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was wondering if any of our rigs came with T4 like some of the XJs did before '88. I know silly question but I've been sick the past three days with sinus infection so my mind is wandering. The trans shifts much better than the past AX5s I've had. The previous owner did some strange stuff to this Jeep. Wife says I'm running a fever. Only thing done this week was change the broken windshield. ($260! Ouch!) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven't crawled under it yet, but I have assumed till now it's an AX-4 behind my 2.5L AMC 4 cyl with TBI. I'm looking at putting a 4.2L in at least temporarily so I have enough power to get around. The 4.2L has a T5 bell on it already (it had been stuffed in a Rambler) and I can use some stuff from my '90 with 4.0L along with the lockup 727 and Np219 tcase I have or the HO AW4 and NV242 setup that I have along with an LPG system to run the fuel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Early D35 (aka non-C-clip) are different brakes and backing plate mount than '91 up ones. Found out the hard way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a '90 Ramcharger with 5.2 and 5 speed (it had a dead TBI system that I switched for Carter AFB) They have NP208 tcase mounted reverse (mirror image) to full size '80+ Jeep Jtruck ones with std trans. The starter is mounted opposite side of the front driveshaft to avoid smacking it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fat fingers! The iPhone keyboard is getting to be too small and twitchy for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would find Castrol GTLMA brake fluid for the integral slaves. I'm not 100% sure why but even the dealer would forego Mopar fluid for the Castrol and mine had zero leaks until the hose started leaking and I couldn't find any GTLMA to replace it with. (On my way to Ouray, CO to go wheeling 15 years ago) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is also Jeep bikes available Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It may have been assembled by someone who didn't know what they were doing. See if the BOL number is stamped on the passenger's side axle tube Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are a couple ways to make a rig similar to this but the "best" is to not cut the frame, but cut the back of the cab off to the floor line and use another cab back 1/2 to extend it on a longbed frame. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

94 Camaro would have TBI at the least. The vacuum hoses are a coolant temp override switch for the air cleaner to control hot air in winter for anti-icing. The factory gauge requires certain resistances to work. On that I defer to someone else as I don't have much internet thanks to an outage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wanted to make mine similar but with a CJ 1/2 cab style pass through between the cab/box and a crank up window for when the canopy is off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That two prong switch should be for an electric fan if it's stock for the 3.4L in a '90 Camaro or S10. In fact, if you look either of those up the sensors and switches should make sense. I ran into a bad bunch of thermostats a couple years ago. 195s were open at 160 and 180s weren't opening till the motor was overheating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk