carnuck

If it was a stationary motor you may need to have a fuel injection advancing system put on. Made that mistake once. The different pump co$t and arm and a leg but the power difference was incredible! On your motor mount pads, if you are making custom brackets for the frame, maybe look into the CJ 6 cyl motor mounts. Energy Suspension makes a poly version that is pretty much bullet proof. Energy Suspension 2-1102G I ran them in my '83 Cherokee, '84 Eagle and '84 J10 with stroker 6 cyls while towing a trailer made from a bus.

Napa is 13-4011 (common GM alt) or 13-4011SW for single wire. Probably the light is coming on because the brushes are worn down. Simple to change and about $5.

Angle shims are easy to find but your noise may be from the lower oil in the diff unless you jacked up the back so the pinion was level when you filled it. Was the driveshaft in synch front to back when assembled? (they need to be mirror imaged)

How's the rear main seal? Trans front seal?

No sense mentioning all the FSJ and AMC boards and lists since only the body is Jeep. I'm on about 20 of them at last count. ;)

my '86 got an '89 gauge set. I just swapped the senders to make it work.

I made my own with the old fittings, a steel brakeline long enough to do the whole thing, a brake hose and my line flaring tool. Unlike brake lines, there isn't as much pressure but I still do double flares.

On the bottom of the fuse box is the resistor/fuse that tends to get kicked loose. Try that first before all the other effort gets wasted. ;)

For basically a stock ride, I use the Napa Regal Ride commercial shocks and get a better ride than the more expensive ones

First, pull the valve cover and run the motor and see if that rocker is pumping oil. If not, rap the rocker on the pushrod side (straight down in line with the rod) and see if the oil starts coming up (make sure the pushrod isn't clogged first) Mine does that about every 5th oil change and I add a can of CD2 engine oil detergent and it goes away.

Too bad you need the shortbed one (if they are different) I have the whole tank from the '89 Comanche I just parted and scrapped for sale for $50.

I used 7" TJ coils to get 5 1/2" on my Comanche with a decent ride.

Bad master cyl. Fluid too low? Does it have the roll pin holding the plastic line in? I'd take the slave off, press the pedal and see if the slave comes out, then retracts without releasing the pedal. On my '86 I had trouble with the clutch arm being slightly bent off straight and air kept getting pumped into the clutch. The fluid kept draining down the firewall (and into the fuse box) After the third master under warranty, I took the one off my '87 and it went bad in a week. I noticed the different angles of the pedals and bent the original back into alignment and the master stopped leaking again.

EGR sticking open?

Water in the fuel, clogged injectors, clogged fuel filter, CPS shorting/melted on the exhaust. And of course the infamous Renix C101 and ground issues.

Cat ratting? Sounds like popcorn almost. Injector sticking open? I re-did my thermostat and almost forgot to bleed the system by unscrewing the temp sensor.

Never heard of Coax. Maybe Coates?

According to Felpro the change was in '97

No. The CCV hose on top that goes to the intake.

Pic is dark, but I got mine from Napa last time. Tell them it's a '93 Grand Cherokee (they don't list it for Cherokee or Comanche. Go figure!) Look on the "HELP!" rack too.

The difference is the newer headbolts are torque to yield (ie: Not for re-use)

if there is rusty powder stains around the ujoint caps, it's time for new ones! (plus, grease each cap with good grease during install)

Check out the Wrangler stuff for 4 cyl headers.

They tried 15% in BC (Mohawk stations had 7.5% methyl and 7.5% ethyl blended to 85% gas) and cars were catching fire all over the place and breaking down because factory cars weren't being made to handle alcohol and fuel lines split, injectors self destructed (my wife's '84 Nissan 810 wagon almost caught fire on the SR520 bridge!)

Mine have been more sensitive to dirty injectors (the Amsoil PI does a good job)