carnuck

The stock headers crack when the front hanger from the bell housing to the pipe is missing (usually taken off during clutch changes and not put back) then the hanger for the muffler lets go and the whole system becomes a pendulum. Sloppy motor/trans mounts make it even worse.

I added a braided strap from the block to the frame at the motor mount (like FSJs have)

I found mine searching for cumanche (I accidentally hit the U instead of O and 4 came up!)

The '87 to '90 firewall connector is the same (I have a '90 underhood harness on my '87 for the AW4 swap) I think I still have the '89 MJ underdash harness from the rig I parted.

Rockers may be too tight and holding the valves open. Before you pull it apart, try a spoonful of fresh gas in the throttlebody and see if it tries to fire up.

PS: What usually breaks is the engine owner's wallet!

You mean like net HP vs Gross HP? Pre 1972 auto manufacturers used Gross HP ratings then insurance companies started hemming and hawing at 400 HP motors and jacking rates through the roof, so they started rating them net, with all accessories functioning in '72. That's why people think the smog stuff killed the HP because the numbers dropped so much. The reality is the power didn't get smogged away till a few years later when catalytic converters became required.

Service replacement engines at the tail end of '86 were sometimes internally balanced. I can't find the link on NAXJA anymore.

I didn't say it was under the hood, did I? :rotf:

On bad ones that stick open I remove and plug the hose then use a hammer to tap the top in until the valve can't open anymore. (or take it off and weld up the hole)

Silly question, but you do know there are 2 sets of screws inside the tilt assembly? Both sets of mine were loose.

If you are getting @ 20 mpg, and you need a truck, where will you find one in CA that will get 30 mpg? Even small cars are hard pressed to do that on the crud that passes for gas in CA.

I've always used logging chains because they drop when something comes apart, but recently my buddy was using his mini dozer to try to remove the stump of a BIG cottonwood we cut down 4 years ago. He went back and forth tugging it several times, then tried a long run. The hook broke (he didn't wrap the stump twice) and flew off. Several weeks later I found out it flew through a window of an empty house next door. Realtors thought some kids had thrown it!

I fixed it.

Seafoam in the oil can help noisy lifters. Closest thing to injector cleaner working I ever found!

here's mine: Image Not Found

Also check out Winnebago Le Sharo

Re-check the wheel nut torque. Spacers have been known to come loose.

I AM sure. Just the order was mixed up. :doh:

Ground issues and loose/corroded battery clamps can wipe out the alternator. Maybe not instantly, but it is progressive damage.

Unfortunately, that's the way it goes. I needed the gravel right then and not after it dried out. I put the Metric Tonne style springs in because I was thinking of using the truck to haul fifth wheel. I'd have to go full float rear axle and then there is beefing up the frame. Decided to pass and go bigger truck (which is why it's for sale now)

What can I say? Once you get past 55, things get tougher to remember the right way around!

This pic is 2200 lbs (parked on a curb left front) One and a half tractor buckets I only had to take the 3300lbs 10 miles. 2 full tractor buckets (it had been raining, so a lot of water poured out when I went up the hill after the scale)

Same as '91 XJ probably, but I have the ZJ front brakes already (and the front diff with CV axles) I'm swapping everything over to the '90 XJ D30 I have (non-vacuum) with 4.10 gears. They ARE better than the '87 MJ front brakes. If I wasn't doing an 8.8 rear diff swap, I'd do the '96 ZJ rear disc swap.

The Mopar trans style flexplate has 4 bolts on the converter. The GM ones have 3. Did they use 3 or 4 bolts on the 2.8? I know the AMC 4 cyl 904 flexplate has 4.