mdwatson

Wondering what trans options I can swap in my 86 2.5L 4x4 without major issues. It currently has the 3 speed auto with 4.10 axles and I'm not impressed with the 3 speed performance. Speeds over 55-60 mph seem to have the motor at a really high rpm and it feels like it has some sort of 4th shift when going from 2nd to 3rd.

Yes, I did as Oyaji said and I made a EGR port blocking plate out of aluminum that I had laying around. It covered both holes.

Wow this got technical quick and way over my head. I just simply put the plate on to block the exhaust gas until I can scrounge the money for a new egr valve. The inside was caked in carbon so there was no flow even if the valve worked. I was just wondering if having no egr would be bad on the engine that's all.

Cruiser54, there was no difference in how the motor ran with it on or with it removed with a solid plate put in it's place on the manifold. Guess I didn't really fix anything as the motor was running fine with it on but not working.

Yep pulled cap and it doesn't spin at all when trying to start. Motor does turn over but it is at a faster rate than before. It's at the shop now, I'm not looking forward to what the diagnosis is.

Distributor was tight and didn't think to feel it when starting. Truck died and dizzy doesn't turn when trying to start. Hoping it's just broken and no other problems.

Warmed my engine up this morning and everything sounded normal. Ran fine going to work and when I pulled up to go through gate I heard it knocking when I turned the radio down. I'm going to take it back to the shop that put the long block in but was wondering what y'all might think it is. It's a 86 2.5L auto. The knock gets faster with rpms while giving it gas. Used a dowel rod to pin point the sound and it's extremely loud at the distributor cap. You can grab the cap and feel the knock through it and even through the wires. Not sure if the cap is acting as a echo chamber or not but when I put the dowel rod at the base of the distributor it's not as loud. Pulled cap and rotor and it looks fine.

Thanks guys. I removed it and put a plate on it for now.

Oh forgot to mention the area I live in doesn't do emission tests and the po apparently gutted the cat.

Egr is on a 86 2.5 auto. Tested it by opening diaphragm and had no change of idle or rpm. Pulled it and cleaned a bunch of carbon off it reinstalled and still no change. The diaphragm is really hard to move with your fingers. My question is will it hurt anything to delete it until I can afford to buy a new one?

Thank you skidoo_j

You might be on to something Eagle, I've never had a solid brake pedal on this truck. I have recently re-bled the brakes and the light came on about a week later. How do you properly bleed the rear brakes with the height sensing valve? Also how do you check the pressure differential switch? I looked at it and the wires are plugged in.

The fluid level is good and I'll check the connections at the e-brake. Didn't know if there was anything else to look for that could cause it to come on.

What causes the brake light on the dash to stay on other than the obvious emergency brake engaged? It's a 86 2.5L with new master cylinder, booster, calipers and rear cylinder. It still has the rear valve but I'm not sure if it works, it has no rod on it.

Think I might have it hooked up correctly now. Have vacuum to the ball now but the vents still aren't working. I assume I have a problem under the dash too.