KC0GFG

Are you sure you have factory cruise control? I thought I did but I was fiddling around tracing wires and found out mine is an aftermarket setup.

https://www.jeepslimited.com/ has some MJ stuff and a little bit of everything else too

I've been working on an 89 Long bed I acquired a while back and finally got it on the road! That was until I noticed I had no running lights, among other electrical gremlins. while looking at the fuse box i found the tabs that hold the fuses/complete the circuit were either coved in corrosion or just plain missing. I did some googling and was loosing hop un till I just so happened to run across 24 Circuit Harness Part No 20101 on the Painless performance site. Aside from the circuits being in different spots the block is the same. Note: I haven't bit the bullet just yet and bought one because I think I may have a spare block at my brothers, and I hear that just the metal tabs are available somewhere just haven't found them yet Another note: "Universal 21 circuit wiring harness for chevy mopar for jeep hotrods" (not pictured) on ebay also appears to be the same and is much more budget friendly 89 MJ 24 Circuit Classic-Plus Customizable 1967-68 Camaro/Firebird Harness Part No 20101 Also Universal Style Pre-Wired 20 Circuit Fuse Block Part No 30003

I'm about to make a separate post with this exact same information but. I just so happened to notice the Painless Performance Universal Style Pre-Wired 20 Circuit Fuse Block Part No 30003 is the same as the 89 MJ fuse box. the circuits are in different spots but plastic is the same also 24 Circuit Classic-Plus Customizable 1967-68 Camaro/Firebird Harness Part No 20101 Universal Style Pre-Wired 20 Circuit Fuse Block Part No 30003 24 Circuit Classic-Plus Customizable 1967-68 Camaro/Firebird Harness Part No 20101

i found somebody doing this build! ya'll should subscribe and follow if you want. i imagine it will encourage him post more if a bunch of us started fallowing his progress https://www.instagram.com/comanchinook/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoxqW9Fm_RKy3989Vy8zPsQ

updates?

I've been thinking of doing the exact same thing for a few years now. any updates??

get the 2.8. drive it till it blows up and swap in an OM617!

DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! I've been kicking around the same idea but with a Chinook shell

for sure use the xj's dana 30 high pinion, but double check the rear axel as well i'm not sure but i think some came with an 8.25 rear. Something about it being a "country" makes think its a good chance its got a beefier rear axle. and if it is you should be able to run it with out re-gearing. my memory is foggy but i seem to recall that that you want to run higher gear s with a diesel an account of them having more torque

Hey guys! so I wound up with a sewing machine because I wanted to make light weigh camping gear and the thought just occurred that maybe I could redo the upholstery in my MJ. dose any body know where I could find the material? I'm looking for the patterned cloth that was in late 80's jeeps

Finally got some time to do some fixes, see original for updated results indicated by **

I concur, check the drive shaft balance. visually inspect the shaft to see if there is any evidence of a balancing weight that's fallen off. but since your under there give a good look at the under carriage, give the drive shaft a good wiggle see if any thing seems loose

Tie rod ends cannot cause death wobble. New ones can (maybe) mask death wobble to an extent, but sloppy ones cannot cause death wobble. because the shop I went to didn't know how to adjust it ( they don't get many old jeeps) and I didn't either until I researched it more.

Hello all! well I finally got around to installing my rough country 4" lift on my 90 pioneer and low and behold I have death wobble. so far I've had an alignment done and that seemed to help it out a little bit but the death wobble still occurs it just takes a larger bump to get it going. Next up on the agenda is all the tie rod ends regardless of if they are needed or not we are talking about a 35 year old truck here so I'm going to lay out my plan of attack and update after each step on if it was the fix or not **1: pull caster shims $0, should decrease caster angle (currently +9 if I'm reading the alignment results right) = update I got the caster shims pulled result was no fix. Hard to say how much the caster angle changed as I I didn't see much difference in my before and after measure meant useing a magnetic angle finder **2: tie rod ends $70 for all 4 ( likely cause and they are old might as well )= update: well of the 4 parts I received from the parts store only 1 was correct passenger side tie rod got changed results are inconclusive as I also installed a rough country's tearing stabalizer at the same time and as of now the death wobble is not present (once I get the rest of the tiered ends and drag link replaced I'll do a test run with either the old stabelizer or no stabelizer installed) 3: adjustable track bar and drop pitman arm $170ish ( will center the axel; not number 1 because track bar is new as of 4 months ago)= pending 4: adjustable upper control arms $180ish ( will provide finer caster adjustment)= pending personally my money is on either the tie rods or the caster angle. I also have a new steering stabilizer on order but the popular opinion is that's just a band aid not a fix. why not lower control arms you ask? because the lift kit came with extended lower control arms. why this order? because that's the order I can afford do it in. why don't you balance the wheels? because the problem did not exist before the lift.