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Hello all! well I finally got around to installing my rough country 4" lift on my 90 pioneer and low and behold I have death wobble. so far I've had an alignment done and that seemed to help it out a little bit but the death wobble still occurs it just takes a larger bump to get it going. Next up on the agenda is all the tie rod ends regardless of if they are needed or not we are talking about a 35 year old truck here so I'm going to lay out my plan of attack and update after each step on if it was the fix or not **1: pull caster shims $0, should decrease caster angle (currently +9 if I'm reading the alignment results right) = update I got the caster shims pulled result was no fix. Hard to say how much the caster angle changed as I I didn't see much difference in my before and after measure meant useing a magnetic angle finder **2: tie rod ends $70 for all 4 ( likely cause and they are old might as well )= update: well of the 4 parts I received from the parts store only 1 was correct passenger side tie rod got changed results are inconclusive as I also installed a rough country's tearing stabalizer at the same time and as of now the death wobble is not present (once I get the rest of the tiered ends and drag link replaced I'll do a test run with either the old stabelizer or no stabelizer installed) 3: adjustable track bar and drop pitman arm $170ish ( will center the axel; not number 1 because track bar is new as of 4 months ago)= pending 4: adjustable upper control arms $180ish ( will provide finer caster adjustment)= pending personally my money is on either the tie rods or the caster angle. I also have a new steering stabilizer on order but the popular opinion is that's just a band aid not a fix. why not lower control arms you ask? because the lift kit came with extended lower control arms. why this order? because that's the order I can afford do it in. why don't you balance the wheels? because the problem did not exist before the lift.

Never had it before on road vehicle (1-tractor did) but had son with me coming from a salvage yard and don't know what really started it but alarmed me and scared the ____ out of him.. Only did it once since I've had it but nonetheless. When I got it i did the wheel tug on it but that was sitting for a while and didn't feel all that bad. Going after church today to look under it and see what's up. Also, if I'm going to be replacing stuff, Are there any brake upgrades for the MJ's? (maybe I should start another thread) E

I need some recommendations on some good adjustable upper controls arms for my XJ. Right now, after some hard wheeling, the death wobblez have returned. I knew it was only a matter of time because my caster is all sorts of stupid off. The pinion yoke is perfectly parallel with the frame rails instead of raised like it ought to be. My coils are rubbing all over the coil posts as well. Anyway, I'm running Rusty's Offroad fixed LCA's with the bend (not sure of their length because I bought them years ago when I was stupid and was new to lifts). I'm running 4" of lift up front. Need some good adj. UCA's to get my axle back to acceptable caster. Also, I'm not looking to buy the best, most expensive UCA's ever. Eventually, I'm upgrading to long arms and a 6" lift. Just need something to make it drivable again for a while.

I have been chasing down a front end death wobble for the last several months. I have replace almost all the steering and suspension components at this point. See list below for what has been replace, what has not. I have also listed the symptoms for easier reading. Here is the gist of the history of the problem. It started out as the typical hit a bump on the highway and the front end shakes mercilessly and your heart skips a beat. I took it to a driveline specialist and they replaced the track bar and the steering dampener. To no avail I might add, the rest of the work mentioned here I did myself. I took it to get the wheels balanced and the shop said my steering knuckle on the passenger side was bad. I replaced it, and when I took the old one back to napa, they said there was nothing wrong with it and it didn’t really need to be replaced, bummer, but I left the new one in anyway. As the months passed I kept replacing stuff and it would seem to get a little better but not go away. There has also been a consistent clunk whenever I back out of a tight parking space and cut the wheel tight. Then suddenly two weeks ago I couldn’t go over 30 mph or it would wobble and I didn’t even have to hit a bump. So I replaced the center link, tie rod end and lower control arms. This has still not fixed the problem! It is better, I can go 45 or 50 before hitting a bump and getting the wobble. I think I am getting there but I’m running out of parts to put on and with the new center link, tie rod end (at the wheel) and control arms I have a much worse crunching clunk when I turn the wheel tight left at back up or starting speeds and an occasional clunk when turning at higher speeds, this is new! :shake: I did make sure that all the tie rod ends center link connections were nice and straight when I put it all together. The center link and tie rod ends at the wheels appear to be ever so slightly tilted now that it is all settled in, but it is not by much. (Should I re straighten them?) Not sure what I should do next, besides a front end alignment. I’d like to wait until I’m done with new parts to do that. As I was typing this up it occurred to me that the crunch and clunk could be the steering knuckle on the driver’s side. How do I check that out without actually taking that part off? If I remove the wheel would I be able to tell if it is bad by wiggling it? What say ye, any advice as to the next step? Thanks in advance for an help and don't be afraid to tell me if I've done something stupid. It happens to the best of us. Symptoms at this point Slight crunching sound and clunks twice when turning the wheel to the left at start up speed. Wobble comes back at speeds over 45 when hitting a bump. Occasionally clunks when turning left at normal street speed Going downhill seems to make it more susceptible to the wobble New parts I put on myself (except track bar and dampener) Upper and lower ball joints Sway bar links Track bar Lower control arms Steering knuckle passenger side Center link Steering dampener Tie rod end at wheel Tie rod end at center link Power steering gear box Steering shaft from firewall to gear box Rebuilt steering column in cab Front brakes and rotors new last year Rear brakes new last year Parts left that look to be in good shape still Sway bar itself looks fine Pitman arm looks fine Coil springs, look fine Shocks, only 3 yrs. old and seem fine Tie rod bar itself, seems fine Drive axel, seems fine Parts that may have wear Upper control arms could use being replaced but I was nervous about getting the bushings out of the axel, I don’t have pneumatic tools Steering knuckle driver’s side not sure how to check if it’s stable

I got this RC trac-bar a little over a year ago and the heim joint seemed to freely spin around when I had it disconnected from the axle. I've heard a ton of bad things about this trac-bar, mostly saying that the heim joint wears out quickly. I have pretty bad DW starting at around ~40-45 MPH, and I know trac-bar is a good place to start. The polyurethane bushing side going to the drop bracket seems fine. Does anyone have any suggestions to remedy this problem, such as a better quality heim joint or should I just replace the whole damn trac-bar with something better? Also, I should add that I started having DW before I swapped axles, and still have it now that the new-to-me axle is installed. So, don't *think* hubs, ball joints, etc. The UCA's have new polyurethane bushings axle side and the stock, 26 year old rubber bushing frame side. The LCA's are Rusty's with the bend and rubber bushings (seem to be in decent condition). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Adjustable-Track-Bar-4-6-5-RC-/260745988655?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb5ac0a2f

It's me again...... This time I am replacing my upper and lower ball joints and the u-joints (while I'm in there anyway) at the wheel. I think I will have access to a lift to do the work, YESSSS!!! You are my guardian angels when it comes to repairs, so I look to you for guidance and any cautions or warnings to take for this job. I read an article on a 92 Cherokee installation of these parts and they mention that you have to get a special ball joint for the lowers. Here is the article quoted: "For the ball joints you want to be careful when getting them as autozone and advanced auto parts didn’t have their list made right when I got mine, when you get the ball joints the upper ball joint is listed correctly but when you get the lower ball joint make sure that the ball joint does not have the grease fitting in the top of it as it will not work due to the u-joints in the axel shaft sitting right above them you need the lower ball joints that do not have the grease fitting or the hole for one it has to have the sealed case." Here is the link to the article: http://www.automotiveforums.com/t723666-how_to_replace_ball_joints_axle_u_joints.html Lemme know if you think this article will hold true for my 88 MJ. Thanks in advance :bowdown: Marie