marie

Thanks for doing this, I hate those greedy little bastards too. Everyone wants a piece of my penny these days. But advise is still always free, even when you don't want it. lol! Do we need to resend any of our pictures? Not that I know where any of them are, but I do know where my tools are, at least most of them :) cheers m

In my diagnosis process, I replaced the master cylinder and the line from the master to the slave in the last couple of months. I discovered the leak had become visible and was dripping out the bell housing. So replacing the slave is the next and last thing to change. My fuse box had been broken off the firewall by the previous owner so it's just kind of tied up under the dash. I can imagine what a horror story that scenario would be though. I'm wrestling with whether to get a 20 yrr old, but new in the box mopar slave cylinder or a newly manufactured LuK (German made) one from my racing shop...

HornbroD, the one on ebay was manufactured in 97, so it's 20 yrs old. Is there a chance there are any seals that might be old and dried up, or the plastic parts might be brittle?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-87-92-JEEP-CHEROKEE-WRANGLER-COMANCHE-WAGONEER-04728737-/182483447129?hash=item2a7cdc6d59:g:TCYAAOSwsW9YwcPD&vxp=mtr Offer him $100 or so..... Cool, thank you! Summit Racing has one from LuK, $97. Have you ever used their parts, do you have an opinion on them? After typing that I asked myself why would I use LuK if I can get a mopar part....?

Good luck! You might be able to find the molybdenum additive at your local gun shop. Get one of those pumps that screws onto the top of the bottle. You have to keep twisting the bottle upside down and right side up while your pumping it in. The additive is heavy and wants to sink to the bottom of the bottle rather quickly. Works like a charm.

Hey guys, does anyone know where I can find Mopar parts for my 88 Comanche? The local dealership, and Mopar.com say they don't manufacture slave cylinders anymore for my year, specifically not for peugeot transmissions. :( Is Napa is the next best shot or should I try my local racing shop, Summit Racing Equipment? I really don't want to drop my transmission for a third time because I used after market parts, again. Let me know your thoughts.

Re: adapter, one of these? http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html I Couldn't find the actual adapter for the floor jack, but it is something like this. I believe there has been discussion on how well it works and the consensus seems that it doesn't work very well on a floor jack, wobbles around a lot. This is what I was looking at https://jet.com/product/detail/af29967f97a14e4786a7a67472bc1012?jcmp=pla:ggl:a_nj_dur_gen_vehicles_parts_a2_b2:vehicles_parts_vehicle_parts_accessories_motor_vehicle_parts_a2_top:na:PLA_627454470_31308599722_aud-155003204480:pla-161714612700:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15 I like the scissor one you linked, it seems better. Seems like the scissor would lift and drop would be smoother than a hydraulic one. I'm 125 lbs, so I need all the smoothness/help I can get! I will check the things you mentioned about the harmonic balancer too. I had a problem with a harmonic balancer on a 72 cutlass years ago. So I'm semi familiar with them. Thanks for the links! :)

Hi Cruiser54, I actually have one of those already. I was checking things from above and I believe it's the alternator, which bummer, is only maybe 5 years old. I was dressed to nice at the time to crawl under and use the stethoscope on the harmonic balancer, am doing that on Sunday. I did get the alternator from Napa so they will replace it for free. If only they would throw in the labor to change it out too...... a girl can dream.... though my dreams are usually nightmares of a piston flying out of the block! I didn't have any noise before I changed the power steering pump, but maybe the release of pressure from removing the belt let an already worn barring in the alt shift. It's actually really loud, so it's more like a screeching rat than a mouse!

Wow, love the acronym, spot on! Can't really nurse it along, it's loosing half the reservoir with 20 min of driving. I have to fill it every time I stop. I borrowed a friends old Nissan truck (as old as mine) for the moment. My Cherokee needs and alternator and a battery. Tough times... My son, who is sick of hearing about my truck woes, is trying to convince me to get a second car that is newer with a loan. He even offered to put a down payment on it for me. He's actually sweet to his dear old mom. I have a line on a friends 2006 Corolla with only 73K on it for $4k. It's a good deal. But I will NEVER give up my truck! I am happy to sell my Cherokee though, it's a grand cherokee and I actually hate all the "luxury" crap on it, mostly because most of that stuff doesn't work any more, lol! I'll be dropping the tranny by myself this time, my son will be away with the military for extra training to make staff sargent. He's a crew chief and a jet engine mechanic in the Air Force. I'm going to get one of those tranny floor jack adaptors and see how that goes. And I will get a Mopar slave cylinder. I'm thinking of starting a blog called "The Wrenching Wench" :rotf: Oh and I think the bearings went on my alternator, or something next to it, is chirping like a $%#@&%$

So, is my diagnosis correct then, that the slave itself is leaking internal to the tranny? if so, where does it actually leak from, there aren't any fittings on that part as I recall?

I thought I posted a final report here, but apparently I didn't, my apologies. I kept getting little bits of air in the system and finally I replaced the line between the master and the connector on the slave cylinder, bled it with my handy dandy Mityvac (love that thing). And all was well for several weeks. Then..... it started again, only this time the fluid level just keeps dropping in the master, it's not actually sucking air in that I can tell. I was baffled, so I wrapped paper towel pieces around every connection, the master itself and even under the plunger on the inside of the cab and tapped them all in place, then drove it for a week. Could not find a leak. Then I put newspaper under the bell housing and pumped the clutch, yup you guessed it, fluid on the paper... :wall: That means the brand new slave installed with the new clutch went bad, right? The slave that's inside the trans is a closed system, right? I mean the bleeder and the line to the master that hang out outside the trans are the only places the slave can leak from that I can see or imagine. But why would it go bad 6 months after being installed. If it was bad from the factory, wouldn't it have leaked from the get go? Is there a seal somewhere in the part that is inside the trans? I'm a little horrified because I don't have a lift and my truck isn't lifted. So dropping the tranny is tough on the street. Any diagnostic suggestions I have overlooked?

I get all my parts from Napa, I can't afford dealership parts.

Hey, thanks for all the pointers. I did have another person in the truck pushing the peddle while I worked the bleeder. However I did not have them pump a few times in between bleeds. I'll give that a try before I think about replacing the line. The master is only a couple of years old, so hopefully it's not getting air at the plunger, but I'll keep that in mind if all else fails. As for the guys who do it solo with a stick, you have to give them a lot of credit for not just throwing their hands up and saying, "no one else around so I can't do it". I do most of my work on my truck solo and have learned to come up with some tricky mechanical advantages when I lack the physical strength for some part of it. There's nothing a good breaker bar and a length of pipe can't handle.... I also do a lot of the work solo because no one wants to here me cuss and throw wrenches... :rotf: I'll report back in a week or so, it'll be that long before I know if it all worked. in the meantime :cheers:

Hey guys, I'm back.... You should imagine the jaws theme song as you read that. So, I seem to be getting air in the system from somewhere. I have had to bleed the system twice now since I changed the gear lube and bleed it a few weeks ago. The last time I bleed it quite a bit, used more than half of a big bottle of Dot-3 to be sure there was no air in the system. Checked all the connections to be sure they were tight. It seems to be ok for about 5-7 days, then it goes back to needing to be bled. It's obvious it's getting air somewhere, but the fluid doesn't get low so it's not leaking fluid anywhere. I had to replace the bleeder as my son mashed the one it came with with vise grips because he stripped it (just the nut portion not the threads) trying to initially loosen it to bleed it when we first installed it all. This is actually the second replacement bleeder as the first one was too long and didn't seat completely. Is it possible that it's getting air through the threads, should I try some teflon tape? Or would that not hold up to the Dot-3? The only connections for the fluid are at the master and just outside the transmission by the bleeder, right? Should I try another bleeder? Maybe from a jeep dealer instead of Napa? They are tiny, 1/4". Big trouble comes in small packages, I know, I'm a small and I am definitely trouble! Let me know your thoughts! :thumbsup: