marie
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Everything posted by marie
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Thanks for doing this, I hate those greedy little bastards too. Everyone wants a piece of my penny these days. But advise is still always free, even when you don't want it. lol! Do we need to resend any of our pictures? Not that I know where any of them are, but I do know where my tools are, at least most of them :) cheers m
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In my diagnosis process, I replaced the master cylinder and the line from the master to the slave in the last couple of months. I discovered the leak had become visible and was dripping out the bell housing. So replacing the slave is the next and last thing to change. My fuse box had been broken off the firewall by the previous owner so it's just kind of tied up under the dash. I can imagine what a horror story that scenario would be though. I'm wrestling with whether to get a 20 yrr old, but new in the box mopar slave cylinder or a newly manufactured LuK (German made) one from my racing shop...
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HornbroD, the one on ebay was manufactured in 97, so it's 20 yrs old. Is there a chance there are any seals that might be old and dried up, or the plastic parts might be brittle?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-87-92-JEEP-CHEROKEE-WRANGLER-COMANCHE-WAGONEER-04728737-/182483447129?hash=item2a7cdc6d59:g:TCYAAOSwsW9YwcPD&vxp=mtr Offer him $100 or so..... Cool, thank you! Summit Racing has one from LuK, $97. Have you ever used their parts, do you have an opinion on them? After typing that I asked myself why would I use LuK if I can get a mopar part....?
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Good luck! You might be able to find the molybdenum additive at your local gun shop. Get one of those pumps that screws onto the top of the bottle. You have to keep twisting the bottle upside down and right side up while your pumping it in. The additive is heavy and wants to sink to the bottom of the bottle rather quickly. Works like a charm.
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Hey guys, does anyone know where I can find Mopar parts for my 88 Comanche? The local dealership, and Mopar.com say they don't manufacture slave cylinders anymore for my year, specifically not for peugeot transmissions. :( Is Napa is the next best shot or should I try my local racing shop, Summit Racing Equipment? I really don't want to drop my transmission for a third time because I used after market parts, again. Let me know your thoughts.
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Re: adapter, one of these? http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html I Couldn't find the actual adapter for the floor jack, but it is something like this. I believe there has been discussion on how well it works and the consensus seems that it doesn't work very well on a floor jack, wobbles around a lot. This is what I was looking at https://jet.com/product/detail/af29967f97a14e4786a7a67472bc1012?jcmp=pla:ggl:a_nj_dur_gen_vehicles_parts_a2_b2:vehicles_parts_vehicle_parts_accessories_motor_vehicle_parts_a2_top:na:PLA_627454470_31308599722_aud-155003204480:pla-161714612700:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15 I like the scissor one you linked, it seems better. Seems like the scissor would lift and drop would be smoother than a hydraulic one. I'm 125 lbs, so I need all the smoothness/help I can get! I will check the things you mentioned about the harmonic balancer too. I had a problem with a harmonic balancer on a 72 cutlass years ago. So I'm semi familiar with them. Thanks for the links! :)
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Hi Cruiser54, I actually have one of those already. I was checking things from above and I believe it's the alternator, which bummer, is only maybe 5 years old. I was dressed to nice at the time to crawl under and use the stethoscope on the harmonic balancer, am doing that on Sunday. I did get the alternator from Napa so they will replace it for free. If only they would throw in the labor to change it out too...... a girl can dream.... though my dreams are usually nightmares of a piston flying out of the block! I didn't have any noise before I changed the power steering pump, but maybe the release of pressure from removing the belt let an already worn barring in the alt shift. It's actually really loud, so it's more like a screeching rat than a mouse!
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Wow, love the acronym, spot on! Can't really nurse it along, it's loosing half the reservoir with 20 min of driving. I have to fill it every time I stop. I borrowed a friends old Nissan truck (as old as mine) for the moment. My Cherokee needs and alternator and a battery. Tough times... My son, who is sick of hearing about my truck woes, is trying to convince me to get a second car that is newer with a loan. He even offered to put a down payment on it for me. He's actually sweet to his dear old mom. I have a line on a friends 2006 Corolla with only 73K on it for $4k. It's a good deal. But I will NEVER give up my truck! I am happy to sell my Cherokee though, it's a grand cherokee and I actually hate all the "luxury" crap on it, mostly because most of that stuff doesn't work any more, lol! I'll be dropping the tranny by myself this time, my son will be away with the military for extra training to make staff sargent. He's a crew chief and a jet engine mechanic in the Air Force. I'm going to get one of those tranny floor jack adaptors and see how that goes. And I will get a Mopar slave cylinder. I'm thinking of starting a blog called "The Wrenching Wench" :rotf: Oh and I think the bearings went on my alternator, or something next to it, is chirping like a $%#@&%$
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So, is my diagnosis correct then, that the slave itself is leaking internal to the tranny? if so, where does it actually leak from, there aren't any fittings on that part as I recall?
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I thought I posted a final report here, but apparently I didn't, my apologies. I kept getting little bits of air in the system and finally I replaced the line between the master and the connector on the slave cylinder, bled it with my handy dandy Mityvac (love that thing). And all was well for several weeks. Then..... it started again, only this time the fluid level just keeps dropping in the master, it's not actually sucking air in that I can tell. I was baffled, so I wrapped paper towel pieces around every connection, the master itself and even under the plunger on the inside of the cab and tapped them all in place, then drove it for a week. Could not find a leak. Then I put newspaper under the bell housing and pumped the clutch, yup you guessed it, fluid on the paper... :wall: That means the brand new slave installed with the new clutch went bad, right? The slave that's inside the trans is a closed system, right? I mean the bleeder and the line to the master that hang out outside the trans are the only places the slave can leak from that I can see or imagine. But why would it go bad 6 months after being installed. If it was bad from the factory, wouldn't it have leaked from the get go? Is there a seal somewhere in the part that is inside the trans? I'm a little horrified because I don't have a lift and my truck isn't lifted. So dropping the tranny is tough on the street. Any diagnostic suggestions I have overlooked?
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I get all my parts from Napa, I can't afford dealership parts.
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Hey, thanks for all the pointers. I did have another person in the truck pushing the peddle while I worked the bleeder. However I did not have them pump a few times in between bleeds. I'll give that a try before I think about replacing the line. The master is only a couple of years old, so hopefully it's not getting air at the plunger, but I'll keep that in mind if all else fails. As for the guys who do it solo with a stick, you have to give them a lot of credit for not just throwing their hands up and saying, "no one else around so I can't do it". I do most of my work on my truck solo and have learned to come up with some tricky mechanical advantages when I lack the physical strength for some part of it. There's nothing a good breaker bar and a length of pipe can't handle.... I also do a lot of the work solo because no one wants to here me cuss and throw wrenches... :rotf: I'll report back in a week or so, it'll be that long before I know if it all worked. in the meantime :cheers:
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Hey guys, I'm back.... You should imagine the jaws theme song as you read that. So, I seem to be getting air in the system from somewhere. I have had to bleed the system twice now since I changed the gear lube and bleed it a few weeks ago. The last time I bleed it quite a bit, used more than half of a big bottle of Dot-3 to be sure there was no air in the system. Checked all the connections to be sure they were tight. It seems to be ok for about 5-7 days, then it goes back to needing to be bled. It's obvious it's getting air somewhere, but the fluid doesn't get low so it's not leaking fluid anywhere. I had to replace the bleeder as my son mashed the one it came with with vise grips because he stripped it (just the nut portion not the threads) trying to initially loosen it to bleed it when we first installed it all. This is actually the second replacement bleeder as the first one was too long and didn't seat completely. Is it possible that it's getting air through the threads, should I try some teflon tape? Or would that not hold up to the Dot-3? The only connections for the fluid are at the master and just outside the transmission by the bleeder, right? Should I try another bleeder? Maybe from a jeep dealer instead of Napa? They are tiny, 1/4". Big trouble comes in small packages, I know, I'm a small and I am definitely trouble! Let me know your thoughts! :thumbsup:
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Got the Pennzoil Synchromesh and the Moly powder, changed the transmission lube. The old stuff still looked good and there wasn't much shavings on the magnet, always a good sign. Also replaced the bleeder valve, as I noticed a drop of fluid on it even though it was tight, and bleed the system. I'm glad to report she's shifting like butter once again. \m/ This transmission has over 250,000 miles on it. The speedometer broke about 4-5 years ago when it was at 239,000 so I'm guessing at the mileage, though it's probably higher than 250K. I think the bleeder valve was the issue in that it wasn't seating properly. If any fluid can come out, air can get in. I was fooled a little when I initially looked in the reservoir and the fluid level looked good, so I thought everything was good with the clutch system. My Comanche and I will grow old together after all. :) A word to the wise about the Pennzoil and Moly. I used a tablespoon, which is an ounce by volume, in each quart of Pennzoil. Molly is very heavy and it settles in the fluid almost instantly and does not want to stay suspended even when mixed thoroughly. Even after I had put the pump on bottle, I had to keep shaking the bottle. I'd put 10-15 pumps in the transmission then tilt the bottle back and forth several times. It takes longer but it's the only way to insure you're getting all the Molly in the transmission. Also, wear gloves, a dusk mask and safety glasses when working with Moly, it's poisonous. Especially when you are under your truck and on the ground like I was, waiting for it to spill out of the fill hole. If you get it in your eyes, it's a trip to urgent care, it's even finer than graphite powder. Tomorrow I get to work on my Grand Cherokee... aka "the beast" Thanks for the advise everyone! Every time I finish working on my truck I hear the same song in my head... Highway to Hell..... It's my road trip song \m/ Someday I'll be done enough with repairs to lift it and paint the body.... It's ok, I can dream, I can dream.... :thumbsup:
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Thanks Eagle! Don't know if I can get the Moly by Saturday, though I live in NV and there are gun stores everywhere. I might be able to find it local. At the very least I will drain and replace the fluid with Pennzoil Synchromesh and then change it again when I get the Moly powder. If mixing myself, how much powder would you recommend adding to each quart of fluid? I will bleed the system too and report back Saturday. I'd do it tomorrow but it will be raining hard tomorrow and I don't have a garage..... Does that make me a street mechanic rather than a backyard mechanic??? :yes:
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PS, I just called the driveline specialist in town just to see what it might cost to have the syncros replaced. They said they won't even touch my Peugeot transmission. They said they never work right if they are rebuilt even if you can find the parts. They also said replacing it is even worse. Please tell me this isn't so...... I just put a new engine in 5 yrs ago, the front end suspension and steering are completely rebuilt, new clutch and new tires in the last couple of months... all done by me :cry:
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Thanks for the responses! Eagle, I believe i have a Renix transmission and I'm not sure if that is a BA 10/5? I'm pretty sure I used 75W90 last time I changed it, I used what was in the manual and I don't have the manual handy at the moment. It's not that the gears are grinding, it's that I can't get the stick into the gear positions period. I can't get it in reverse to even retry first gear. :cry: I don't recall it popping out of gear upon deceleration for coasting. However I can shift it easily when it's not running, which is why I assumed it was the syncros. But like I said I'm not that knowledgeable about transmissions. I will change the fluid tomorrow and re bleed the slave cylinder (if it doesn't rain like they say it will). Don't worry, I have never treated the transmission like a dragster, I baby this truck because it's all I have, and I kind of like it. We understand each other, even if she is a bit temperamental sometimes. ;) So, what are the pros and cons on switching to synthetic vs the 75W90?
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Hi guys, it's been a while.... I need some help diagnosing a shifting problem. Well, actually, it's not shifting, that's the problem. For starters, this is an 88' Comanche, 4.0, manual tranny, yes I am a girl and yes I do all my own work and have for many years, even successfully, LOL! I'm guessing the syncros are shot, but I'm not certain and transmissions are not my specialty. It's always been a little stiff going into first or second gear when cold, nature of the beast as I am told. Though I have noticed it getting a little worse lately. I recently replaced my clutch, plate and internal slave cylinder and all was working well after the repair and shifting was like butter. That was a month ago. The last several days first, second and reverse started getting tough. Today it got worse and I had to drive some back roads in second gear home. Thank goodness I wasn't far from home. I'm fairly certain the clutch is disengaging fully. It was bled properly when I changed the clutch assembly. When it's not running I can change gears easily, this is only when it's running. Third and fourth gear seem to be ok. I'm guessing my (probably) 28 year old syncros are failing. Does anyone have any suggestions on anything I can check or test before resorting to taking the transmission out..... again! Though I'm 125 lbs of stubborn ornery, dropping the tranny is no easy task, on the ground with a standard hydraulic jack...solo, no matter how big you are. I did pull my engine and dismantle it by myself and that felt like a piece of cake compared to dropping the tranny without a lift... I will admit I did enlist the help of my rather large 6'3"/220lb military son to wrestle the tranny off the spindle and back on, he is not available right now to help. He is keeping up the family tradition (which started with me, there are no grandpas or uncles) and he is a crew chief and a jet mechanic in the Air Force. Sorry, I can't help myself when it comes to bragging about him. When we work on cars together, he calls us master and blaster... :-) got any suggestions? Many thanks in advance if you do!
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Hey guys, maybe it's different on my 88 Comanche, but I didn't have to take my dashboard out. I did however take the lower cover of the dashboard under the steering wheel with the ashtray on it, off. Once the pull knob is removed via the little button on the bottom of the unit, accessible by the convenient hole Jeep leaves for you in the plastic. Once the knob is off you are looking at a bolt, though it doesn't really look like a bolt. I looks more like a washer with a small center hole (the knob went through) with a line cut in it that traverses the full diameter. I used an old chisel because the slot is too wide for a flat head. Just twist it out and the light switch unit falls out the back. That's the only thing holding it in! Then you can just fish it out the back side, unplug it, and plug the new one in. Reverse steps and your done. :) It might be different on other vehicles, but that's how it is on mine. I hope that helps :)
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Marie, why don't you click on the link in my signature and do Tips 1 through 5? Good preventative maintenance on an old rig and you can avoid issues in the future. Thanks Cruiser54, you're always an inspiration to me! The plastic (or probably something like bak-o-lifte) on the top of the solenoid on my starter was cracked, so I think that was the more major problem. However, I did go through Cruiser54's 1-5 tips too. Cruiser54, you helped me out before and gave me the heads up on cleaning the C101 a couple of years ago. So that has been thoroughly cleaned. I did the other steps too, well not EVERY connector just yet but several. I will do the rest soon. My truck doesn't have the bundle of ground wires on the dip stick bolt. I did find four wires coming out of the bundle that comes from the C101, on a bolt on the rear passenger side of the valve cover and cleaned those up all nice and tidy. Did the ICU too. It is running now, however I think there may still be an issue with the MAP. I checked the resistance as you instructed and I got a reading of 51! Not good! So do I have to trace that B connector wire and replace it, is that the next task? I was supposed to disconnect it from the MAP to stick the probe in, correct? You guys are the best!
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So instead of a boy friend, why don't you try getting a man friend? :brows: Ha, that's the best come back I've heard to that comment! :)
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That's what I thought. So there is not voltage regulator between the battery and the starter, the solenoid takes care of that, correct? The aftermarket starter was a Mitsubishi...... So I got a ride home from a friend and gave it a try, got the nasty bad electrical part noise. Had my friend jump to turn it over so I could listen in the engine compartment to confirm the noise came from the starter..... and she turned it once and it started like a dream, six times.... Sheesh! Watch it not start when I get in it to go to work tomorrow morning. When it started the battery read fully charged, so yeah I'm pretty sure it's the starter too. I'll replace it unless anyone else has any other diagnostic tricks for me to try. I still consider my truck more reliable than any of the boyfriends I've had... :rotf: I know how to figure out what's wrong with my truck! Thanks Eagle and ComancheKid 45!
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Hey guys, I’m having trouble tracking down an engine turnover problem. A few days ago I turned the ignition and got nothing, dead nothing. I was in a parking lot with no tools (of course). My positive battery cable was loose so I wiggled it and few other things, it started so I tightened it at home and had no more problems. Until this morning when needing to go to work (of course). I could get it to try to turn over, the starter was working but it was not starting. Then it would only engage the starter every 4th or 5th time turning the key over. Completely unresponsive, not even a click on the in-betweens, with the exception of the sound of something electrical like a solenoid spitting its dying breath. Got a ride to work, but I thought I would post while at work so I might have a clue when I go home and try to work on it. So the big questions for me are, does my 88 Comanche have the kind of starter with the solenoid built into the starter? I replaced the starter about 8 yrs ago, so it’s not all that old. Also, does my truck have a voltage regulator in between the battery and the starter like my cars from the 70's had? My battery is only a few months old too. Of course, first off I will try jumping it when I get home, and I don't mean with a baseball bat. My gut tells me it’s not the battery, but I did eat spicy food for breakfast…. Thanks in advance :thumbsup:
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@carnuck, I'll check the voltmeter, but I have a serpentine belt and it's only about 2 yrs old. Also, the issue seems to be better now, so it is possible it was just low enough and maybe had some air bubbles and it took a little bit for it all to right istself. Thanks guys!!
