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marie

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Everything posted by marie

  1. marie
    Ok, back on track today. I had other overdue obligations yesterday. I am waiting for a couple of parts to come in, should be here tomorrow. i.e. the ccv tube and MAP tube and rubber connector. But I won't be able to be back on it till Thursday :( I put most everything else that is clean back together. I was going to try to clean the EGR, but I can't get to the second bolt with the tools I have. It is directly behind the the connection tube on the flying saucer part. I need to get a T-40 that is like an angled screwdriver, my star drivers are sockets. :shake: Or is it ok to try to spin the unit a bit? I'm guessing not. Here's a pic. While I have the attention of people who know...... I have a couple of connectors in the area I am working in that as far as I know have never been connected to anything. The pics have reference item in them to show you where they are located. Can anyone tell me what they belong to? Thanks!! #1 #2
  2. marie
    When I put the clean C101 back together should I put some of that electrical connector grease on the prongs? Would that help retard the black gunk from reappearing? What is that gunk anyway, some kind of by product on the plastic casing? I have never seen an electrical part do that before. By the way, I got the the temp sender installed In that hole. It took a little fenageling but you were right, slight angle. I was able to hand turn it a few times so hopefully I didn't cross thread it. What is the name of the skinny tube that goes into the top of the valve cover right next to that? I broke it while putting the sender it :(. Bull in a china shop as I have said before lol!!
  3. marie
    @Jeep Driver: How can you tell it's not an 88? I don't doubt you, I just want to learn how to tell the differences. @Cruiser54: So, is the CTS in the wrong hole? I am assuming because it's in fluid, it doesn't need cleaning. I found the O2 sensor too, does it need cleaning? Here's my nice clean C101, the other side is just as clean. Compare it to the gunked one on page two of this post, very time consuming but worth it. I took the covers off too and cleaned the other side and cleared the holes that go all the way through. It should last another 25yrs. Hopefully I'll still be running too!! Here's the IAT. It was pretty black and gunked, but I did clean it. Do you think I need a new one? I am letting everything dry out tonight. Hopefully I will remember how to put it all back together tomorrow...... :eek:
  4. marie
    So there are two holes in the driver's side of the block. You saw the one first one in my last post. Here is a pic of the one closer to the firewall which has something installed in it already. Could this be the CTS and it's in the wrong hole? I am aslo posting a picture of the only wiring harness in that area and one of them is connected to what ever is in the second hole. This is the hole that is closer to the firewall, is that the CTS? This is the wiring. The top wire goes up somewhere into the upper part of the enginge (sorry I should have traced it). The middle wire goes to what is in the pic above. The lower one goes to what you told me looks like a broken knock sensor. So, please tell me which is which? And BTW, the broken knock sensor wire will not reach to the first plugged hole from the previous post. So may wires, senders and sensors....so little time.....sigh I have to go to job #3 today but i will be back by 1:30-ish. Thanks for the help :)
  5. marie
    This evenings report: I wound up working until 4 so I didn't get as much done as I wanted to, i.e. it's not running yet! But I did make good progress. Located the IAT (see pic). Now that I have located it, what do I do to check it? The IAT is the nut with the white in the center and two wires, right? I believe I found the hole that the CTS is supposed to go in. It too, like the sending unit hole, has a plug that is painted over and need an allen key to unscrew. the allen key whole you see in the picture on the right, directly behind the motor mount is in a similar place as the diagram. On my engine block there is another sensosr closer to the firewall that has wire connected to it and I was told that that was a knock sensor. Is that correct? My so called knock sensor is about in the place the diagram shows the block drain plug. But, the diagram is for a 90, so it might not be right for my 88. This is what I believe to be the connector that should be connected to the CTS. It doesn't look like it's been connected for years. As a matter of fact I remember taking something out of my old blcok from that spot that was broken. That must have been my old CTS! BTW, I checked with Napa and the engine I bought was an 88 and not a later 4.0. I was happy to hear that. I also have the C101 mostly cleaned, nasty gunk for sure! I am cleaning the back of the unit a little too, being very careful not to damge the wires.
  6. marie
    Most girls dream of a nice little house with a white picket fence. I dream about having a three car garage with a lift, a pit and the walls lined with every tool box and tool imaginable, and a pneumatic tool system taboot. ahhhhhhh, I would feel like a Queen in a castle! I'll see what I can get from Napa on my way home from work. I'm not sure about that sending unit, it seems to be too big in diameter to fit in the whole. It's like the unthreaded part will go in as deep as the thread in the head then it feels like it bottoms out. I will see what I can do to wiggle it around/angle it. I will report this afternoon. Thanks again guys, I really appreciate the help.
  7. marie
    That's the sending unit I bought and the plug I took out of the head. That's the location of the plug I took out OMG, have you ever seen C101 that bad? T-Rex is in there somewhere, I just know it. And yeah, the other side looks just as bad. I left this pic big so you could really see the gunk!
  8. marie
    ok, I had an epiphany this afternoon. I think I work my job not so that I can put a roof over my head, but so I can buy parts for my Jeep. :yes: cruiser54, you were right the C101 it totally gunked. There is so much tar in there I'm pretty sure I am going to find dinosaur bones! What an ugly mess. I will clean it. I ran out of light tonight and have to work tomorrow till noon, but I will have the rest of the day to do hopefully finish up. As for the CTS and the gauge sending unit for the dash (have I got that right?). I found the hole for the sender, so I thought. I found a small flat plug that took an allen key to get out. It was almost flush and had been painted over. It was located next to the last bolt for the head right next to the valve cover, firewall end, driver’s side. Right were the pics I've seen said it is. The sending unit I got from Napa fits nicely on the cap but does not fit in the hole. I have some pics, I will figure out how to put them in photo bucket so I can post them. I can pass on this for now because it's the CST I'm most worried about, right? So I just found a picture for the location of the CST http://autorepair.about.com/library/images/bl825a-lib.htm (it's not a link, you'll have to cut and paste) it's for a 90 but it looks like what you are talking about. I will have to wait for daylight to look for it. I went to pull the tubing off the MAP to check it and I broke it. I'm 5'5", 120lbs and female, you'd think I would know how to be delicate, but no, I'm a bull in a china shop at times. I am hoping I can buy one at Napa??? Please tell me it's not a junkyard only part? :( I WILL be careful with the C101! I have not looked for the IAT yet, will do tomorrow. I will try to post some pics in a few minutes. Thanks for your help cruiser54, I really appreciate it.
  9. marie
    Well, I had to look up all those acronyms except the MAP, because I just put a new MAP in. So the MAP is good. Now the C101, is that that bunch of wires and connectors right above the master cylinder, and is it one of those wires or the whole thing? I’m just finding out that the coolant temp sensor on an 88 is all in one with the dash gauge for temp right? That could be an issue because the dash temp gauge didn't work when I got my truck back from the guy who put the new engine in. I am finding out that he screwed a bunch of stuff up, so it's not surprising to find out that that was important. He said it wasn't. I actually bought the temp sensor to put in a month ago. I can plainly see the connector for it. I can't seem to find the hole it's supposed to go in. I have seen several pictures on the internet of where it's supposed to be but I don't see a hole there. It should be near the firewall end of valve cover driver’s side, right? This could be a/the problem. But it hasn’t been there for 2 years now and it ran fine. I figured it was just for the dash gauge alone. Your thoughts? I will have to find the IAT.
  10. marie
    yup, I did! So, what makes it run rich? Would the IAC being fouled make it run rich? The stalling is something separate isn't it?
  11. marie
    Yeah, I looked it over pretty carefully the other day when we were talking about it. I will take it completly off tomorrow and reinspect. I'll clean it and myabe even blow in one end of it while blocking the other end and make sure there are no leaks.
  12. marie
    Nice job, really awesome Neohic!! Welding is on my list of things to learn, obviously an asset to Jeep modification. I am lucky, I live in the desert, no rain and lots of BLM land. I can pull off the road, sleep in the bed of my truk with my dogs and fall asleep looking at the stars. I really like this site and I am looking forward to getting past keeping my truck running and start sprucing it up and....... possibly making it a rock crawler.
  13. marie
    Lets see how well I type now that I’m stoned on throttle body cleaner. The plugs were black as pitch, but powdery not sticky. So, now we know it is/was running rich. The plug wires all looked good except for the one I broke, which of course was the last one. I will get a new set tomorrow. I disassembled the throttle body and removed the IAC. I cleaned all, including as far as I could reach into the intake manifold itself. Everything had varying degrees of soot. All parts are clean and shinny. I did not have time to get to the EGR before nightfall, nor could I reassemble the throttle. It passed the NV smog test just two weeks ago, which would not have happened if it was running rich. And the smog test was after the first episode of the bucking and stalling. I am wondering if the running rich aspect is new and separate from the stalling. What say ye?
  14. marie
    Well, I have cleaned and rebuilt carborators before but not this kind of throttle body. I just looked a picture of it and it's that little doohicky that comes out the side of the throttle housing and has a little stem that rests inside. I can clean it with some carborator fluid and a tooth brush then let it air dry for a bit, right? I will pick some up with the spark plugs on the way home. Can one clean the EGR in a similar fashion or is that strictly a replacement item? Thanks!
  15. marie
    Right on jimoshel! My tub of Gunk sits right next to the dish soap, and there are two towels in my kitchen, one for greasy hands and one for dishes. I try not to mix them up, but I'm sure I have ingested more petroleum products through osmosis than most people have seen with their eyes.
  16. marie
    Sweet!!! I am super proud of girls who pick it up!! I have three tool boxes, one electrical, one plumbing, and my automotive one which I can't even lift. I'm thinking of bolting it in the back of the truck but I'm affraid someone would steal the truck just for the tools. LOL!!! :rotf:
  17. marie
    So, the pump checks out ok, right? And it's obvious that the choke/stall problem is intermittent. Let's see what I can get dialed in after work today. It's a process of elimination now.
  18. marie
    I know this is going to sound silly, but there are a few girls that post here...... So how about a smiley/emoticon that looks like Rosie the riviter? You know, the WWII pic of the girl with the bandana tied around her head and she's showing off her bicep. She does represent us girls who aren't affraid to get our hands dirty! I'll see if I can find one. cheers m
  19. marie
    I live in the desert, it hasn't rained in several months, but I will check it.
  20. marie
    Yeah it smells rich and is a little black, though I am not an expert at that. Yes, the spark plugs are like the windows to the internal combustion as eyes are to the soul. (auto poetry??) I should have thought to check them earlier. I think my brain was focusing on sensors and external valves. So, the report I gave about the fuel psi, is that in the normal range? I thought the psi was supposed to go down when I took the vacuum line off the regulator?
  21. marie
    I will check the plugs and wires and make sure all is well with that. I suppose if the plugs need changing that could make it run rough and contaminate the exhaust, right? But would that make it stall out like it has been? Sorry, I know I'm full of questions, the logical side of my brain is on fire.
  22. marie
    ps, I will have to do the plugs tomorrow in the light too.
  23. marie
    Yes, the line from the MAP to the throttle body is good/clean and tight in the rubber plug it fits into. I installed a new MAP two days ago when it first became un-drivable and was curious about something. The rubber plug on the throttle body that the MAP line fits into has two vertical holes. The MAP line fits into the lower one and the upper one had nothing plugged into it, and it doesn't look like it ever did. Is that normal? It is dark out now so I will have to wait until tomorrow to double check all the vacuum lines. I don't have a garage or big lights to work after dark. :( I did look them over the other day while doing the MAP and they all looked healthy and in place, but I will look closer tomorrow. If all the vacuums are good, what is next?
  24. marie
    Here's the report: At cold start THIS time it idled with a pressure reading of 34 psi and held fairly still, almost no vibration of the needle at all. With the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose off it jumped to 40 psi and the needle was rock solid. It stayed the same with the engine warm with the tiniest bit of needle vibration here and there at 34 psi. When warm and the vacuum hose off it did the exact same thing and jumped to a very still 40 psi. I turned the engine off a few times and restarted hoping to get it to run as rough as it did the last time, but to no avail. It still sounds rough at idle, just not stalling out at the moment. I can hear the fuel pump working. I did purchase a multimeter, I will google some user instructions and bone up on it. Here is another tidbit and maybe just another problem all together.... my exhaust smells bad (rich) and it's blowing some black, like it's burning oil. The engine is only 2 years old and I take care of it and change the oil regularly. I also just checked the oil while I was out there and it is perfectly full. It can't possible be burning oil can it? again, thanks in advance
  25. marie
    Thanks all! I will check the fuel pressure as suggested by Cruiser54 when I get home from work. I will report the results asap. I will also get a multimeter, I have always wanted to learn how to use one, I've jsut been lazy. @Cruiser54, so if there is a split or tear in the fuel line as you suggest, would that cause it to race and drop because the sensors can't figure out the fluctuation in fuel? Hence checking the pressure without the regulator? With the type of fuel tank I have, the fuel pump lines are in front and not under the bed. Am I correct in thinking I don't actually have to drop the fuel tank to get to the fuel pump?
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