AMCJeepMJ

This sounds like fun, but since my rig is 2wd I would be a liability on any actual rough trails or doing off-roading. Will this be a 2wd-friendly event?

I was considering something similar but with these little guys and a weatherproof/marine-grade rocker or toggle switch.

Its just the four bolts. Diagram below from a 99 Wrangler 2.5 but is applicable to any 2.5 MJ.

I too attest to the quality of these headliners. Excellent product. If you're on the fence about one of these, go ahead and pull the trigger and you will not regret it.

It's easy to track your mpg using fuelly.com; I have used the site since late 2011 and a few others here do too. Below is copied directly from http://comancheclub.com/topic/44096-gas-mileage/ just this past week for my 87 2wd 2.5 MJ: -------------------------------------------------- http://www.fuelly.com/car/jeep/comanche/1987/Oceanic815/102921 Above is my Fuelly tracking for my daily driver: average of my last 5 tanks as stated is 24.0 mpg, with a best tank of 24.8; however, I run 245/70/16s that are 4.6% larger than stock to result in a 25.1 mpg average for my last 5 tanks and 25.94 mpg for my best tank. What have I done to achieve this? Thanks for asking. ;) Light on the gas pedal, shift early (I'm in 4th by 25mph) Maximum speed of 55mph (I can get away with this in Oregon without getting flipped off or cut-off much) Start coasting a long way back from a stop Over-sized tires aired to sidewall maximum suggested pressure Empty bed, no canopy or tonneau cover, tailgate up Antenna and bumper lights removed Homebrew air dam and grille blocks: The air dam, which was taken from a mid-80s S-10 pickup and mildly resized, is riveted to the stock chin that runs between the fender flares. It is then gorilla-taped to the underside of the bumper in order to seal it. I run angle iron to brace the dam to prevent it from folding back at highway speed. The dam could stand to be another 2" lower and extended to the sides to cover some of the frontal area of the tires... but that's a project for another day. Our rigs have poor aerodynamics, mostly due to the fender flares and coarse underside- it is easy to improve fuel mileage over the EPA estimates with only a little work.

http://www.fuelly.com/car/jeep/comanche/1987/Oceanic815/102921 Above is my Fuelly tracking for my daily driver: average of my last 5 tanks as stated is 24.0 mpg, with a best tank of 24.8; however, I run 245/70/16s that are 4.6% larger than stock to result in a 25.1 mpg average for my last 5 tanks and 25.94 mpg for my best tank. What have I done to achieve this? Thanks for asking. ;) Light on the gas pedal, shift early (I'm in 4th by 25mph) Maximum speed of 55mph (I can get away with this in Oregon without getting flipped off or cut-off much) Start coasting a long way back from a stop Over-sized tires aired to sidewall maximum suggested pressure Empty bed, no canopy or tonneau cover, tailgate up Antenna and bumper lights removed Homebrew air dam and grille blocks: The air dam, which was taken from a mid-80s S-10 pickup and mildly resized, is riveted to the stock chin that runs between the fender flares. It is then gorilla-taped to the underside of the bumper in order to seal it. I run angle iron to brace the dam to prevent it from folding back at highway speed. The dam could stand to be another 2" lower and extended to the sides to cover some of the frontal area of the tires... but that's a project for another day. Our rigs have poor aerodynamics, mostly due to the fender flares and coarse underside- it is easy to improve fuel mileage over the EPA estimates with only a little work.

When I picked up my 86 rig for parts/scrap it had a 5th wheel mount in the bed, welded to the fender humps. Not sure how safe it'd be but it can be done.

At least the price has come down since the last time it reared its ugly head: http://jalopnik.com/for-6-999-this-is-why-we-can-t-have-nice-things-1177320209

We have a No Boundaries roof rack on our Escape just like the one below so I forget sometimes the basic roof rack exists. The NB rack extends and locks in to the bumper but obviously wouldn't work for an MJ application. I think we have actually needed to extend the rack maybe once every other year to haul items; it sees very infrequent use and causes a lot of aerodynamic drag.

You are correct in what it does. It was for the Renix models only. For the HOs, the ECU handles that function. I don't think it adds any power or torque, unless you run mid-grade or hightest gas. The Renix engines have a knock sensor to retard the spark when they sense detonation. And that usually happens under load. What the high altitude CPS really does is allow more advance under light load, which boosts the fuel economy. That's about a $50 part at napaonline. Did these come stock from the factory for models sold at higher elevation dealerships, such as in mountainous areas [Denver, SLC, Casper, etc.], or is this an aftermarket-only add-on?

Those look really deep; will they be able to fit behind the headlight and not contact the radiator support? There's not much room to start off with back there.

I soooooooo want want one of these but the price is more than what I can budget or justify. :( I will have to stick with my modified 80s S10 air dam pop-riveted to the factory one.

I used to stop at a Chevron on the way to work back last year to buy gas, etc. and since we have fuel attendants that pump our gas in Oregon, I kept having the same kid come by and chat me about the truck every. single. time. I came in to get gas. Eventually it got to the point where he started asking 'when you gonna sell yer truck ta me?' and being a bit of an annoyance; I have found another gas station to go to since as I was starting to get creeped out by him. Really, I don't mind the occasional nosy person or enthusiastic person, and it can be kind of fun; however when it goes too far with someone that doesn't know when to quit it can be quite off-putting.

Sorry to hear of what happened to the car. Headrests: I recently upgraded my 87 to the headrest-equipped bench. I hope I never have to use them.

When we purchased a home, we were very clear with our realtor [whom is a friend] that we did not wish to be in a HOA. It has its disadvantages, however, we enjoy not having to deal with: -a perfectly manicured lawn [mowing 1x/week and is enough, thanks] -unapproved shingle colors -wrong kind of bushes or flowers out front -no pickups parked in the driveway or on curb [i'm looking at you, HOA in Frisco, TX] -incorrect color of binds/curtains in the front windows -plus many many more! I can deal with the neighbor's old Aerostar sitting in the street for a month at a time or an unmowed lawn; it's a small price to pay to avoid HOA headaches.

I used poly bushings for my rear leafs and front/rear sway bars; the rig stays flat on highway ramps and cloverleafs.

I use a big pipe wrench when I have to take mine off for changing springs or coil spacers. Haven't had to do it in a few years, fortunately.

I have Spicer ball joints, seem to be holding up fine after 3 years. Doing ball joints is a good way to kill an afternoon.

I have a Ruff-Tuff bench seat cover made out of saddle blanket materiel that I ordered two years ago to the tune of about 180.00. It has not faded or wrinkled up, good quality. The cover fit both my original 87 bench seat and the replacement 91 bench seat. The cover has the shifter seat notch cut out. Should you go this route with a Ruff-Tuff, I suggest taking the bench seat out to put the cover on, and then using heavy safety pins to keep the straps underneath from slipping [thereby preventing the cover from moving over time]. No pics handy but can be ordered with seat-front pockets, rear rifle scabbard, rear map pockets, matching headrest covers, etc... I went with the map pockets and once I changed seats picked up the matching headrest covers. The only detractor to ordering from Ruff-Tuff is that as each is made to order it can take a month to receive your seat cover from when the order is placed with them.

No pics handy, but I run 16x7 Silverstars from a Grand Cherokee during the summer and 15x8 black powdercoated Gamblers from a Wrangler during the winter.

I purchased mine from Morris 4x4 maybe two or three years ago and they were like $16 each; it would appear they no longer carry them.

Redwolf, use 75w90 for both the rear diff and the manual gearbox. I use full synthetic and it runs about $8 for a quart at OReilly's. Regarding packing your bearings, this is something you can do yourself; you don't need to go to a shop to have it done. I use a bearing grease packer similar to THIS ONE; it works well and is very easy. The manual packing method works too but takes longer. Be sure to clean the old grease out of your bearing before packing in new grease; I cleaned my bearings in gasoline and let dry before packing, but use your own method if you don't like cleaning in gas. Clean out the old grease in the hub while you have the bearing out; use something that isn't going to leave lint. I use THIS GREASE to pack bearings and I am happy with it; a can goes a long way. A youtube video that shows both the packer and manual methods may be found HERE; I suggest taking a moment to watch before attempting if you've never done it before. Caveat: I have not watched the video with sound, so I don't know what the guy's saying, but even watching muted will give you a very very good idea of how to do it.

I put a reflective sun shade in the front window, then took my recently resurrected Buick to work... I let the MJ have the day off to rest.

Free bump for a space-saving mod.

I ran in to the same problem with an OReilly hose, too much of a bend. Had to go downmarket to Autozone to get one that fit right.