AMCJeepMJ

Haven't decided on which direction to go on it- I would prefer to restore it to close to original condition but obtaining parts will be a challenge to say the least. However, putting Celica Supra parts on it would be easier to obtain and are reasonably interchangeable. First thing to do is get tires on it that aren't 20 years old on it and do some upkeep: fluid changes, plugs, filters, gaskets, etc. The seats and carpets are going to have to come out to address the rust, which will be a summer project; fortunately the underside is in pretty good shape.

Not like I have a ton of vehicle storage space. Picked up a 1974 Toyota Corona Mk2 wagon yesterday, drove up to Portland to pick it up and drive it back to Central Oregon with it. 2.6 inline 6, 3 speed auto, 2bbl carb, rwd, a/c. Bad respray, surface rust under carpets, stalls at traffic lights, unobtanium trim pieces, rear window is plexi. Good news is the body is otherwise straight apart from front left corner Drove great on highway, wife chased in the Benz in case things went pear-shaped. At Timberline rest stop yesterday afternoon: A pic I found online of it parked in Portland from a few years back: Got the owner down to $1000 and drove off with title in hand.

This thread made me take a look at my profile- here since '09.

US Federal Motor Vehicle Standard 108 requires 2 amber and 2 red side marker lamps for: All Passenger Cars and Motorcycles, and Multipurpose Passenger Vehicles, Trucks, Buses and Trailers of Less Than 80 (2032) Inches (mm) Overall Width as of July 1972 per Table III - Required Motor Vehicle Lighting Equipment as shown on https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2004-title49-vol5/xml/CFR-2004-title49-vol5-sec571-108.xml. The location requirements for placement of these Federally required side marker lamps may be found on Table IV. Side marker reflectors are also addressed in FMVS 108. Can businesses, local governments, and individual state governments overrule Federal vehicle vehicle requirement standards and regulations? Further, I don't see a disclaimer as of this post on the Rusty's web page for the housings or on their T&C page stating they are For Offroad Use Only; these tail lamp housings once installed with rear facing lights as suggested obviously fail to comply with FMVS 108. In the event someone using these housings as suggested receives a citation from law enforcement for lack of side-marker lights or reflectors, however unlikely that may be, does the lack of an Offroad Use Only disclaimer make Rusty's on the hook for the citation fines or fees and any subsequent ones by others until a disclaimer is up on the site or on the product itself, thereby transferring liability to the purchaser/user?

This should be good. Please elaborate to support your argument.

$200 just for the housings without any lights and no sidemarkers or reflectors to keep your rig legal? Then another $70 for red-only LED lights that fit the housing (mounting gasket and wiring plug sold separately)? Resistors for the turn signals to operate properly with the LED light? Looks like everyone will have to fend for themselves for reverse lights. Ridiculous. I'll stick to pulling lights from salvage yards that are a complete package, thank you. http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-metal-tail-light-housings-pair-mj-commanche.html

Or maybe they have a lead foot. I have an 87 2WD, short bed, 2.5, 4-speed, Dana 35 with whatever gears that came stock, 245/75/15 tires aired to 38 pounds (max sidewall pressure), I do some mild hypermiling in the truck with help of a homebullt lower air dam by modifying an 80's S10 air dam, four side grill slots blocked, antenna delete and passenger side mirror delete. You can see in my signature my economy; it is pretty consistent when kept at a max speed of 50, shifting early, and being light on the gas pedal.

Yes, the ethanol gas is a no-no; 93 non-ethanol is what I'm running in it; hell it gets better fuel than the Benzes!

I picked up and applied the black reflective tailgate sticker several years ago and it still looks like new. It reflects a gold light when hit by headlight beams; not dazzlingly bright like an emergency vehicle's reflective decals but enough to notice. You won't regret picking it up should you choose to do so.

Get some nice poly bushings for your bar and it'll stay flatter on sweeping curves. Easy and effective upgrade.

Nice deflection, distracting us from what happened with something shiny.

We have a few Ferraris (most recently a California and a 360), a Lambo or two (one a burnt orange Gallardo), a couple of Masers, at least two Bentleys, two Lotuses (Lotii?) and an Aston Vantage that I have personally seen here in Bend. Our local Porsche/BMW/VW/Audi dealer has a high dollar storage facility on site with some spendy metal behind its doors. The local Benz dealer has a number of AMGs on site at any given time. There's also a half-dozen Teslas floating around Central Oregon.

So lesson for everyone to learn here is to not use a utility pole wire to articulate your truck. Just look at the matted grass in front of it; banshee you know you were doing exactly that when it tipped and aren't fooling anyone by telling otherwise considering the soft earth's not disturbed elsewhere. Occam's razor: the simplest explanation is usually the correct one.

3 of 4 vehicles at the house are autos; only the MJ is a stick and is the most fun to drive. Ok, I lie, I love driving the W211 daily and every moment is bliss, but the MJ is still a lot of fun.

But they were all 93-ish and below. It was in 94 that the sorcerers at MB changed to a biodegradable harness to 'help' with recycling the car when the time came. Some of them recycle themselves prematurely.

Bought another what? Comanche? Nope, not this time... bought another Mercedes-Benz. Picked up on Friday a 1995 W124 E320. No glove box thanks to the passenger side airbag, asymmetrical factory mirrors, one wiper blade, trailer hitch, real leather (not MB Tex), and just broken in at 145k. Amazingly, everything works on this car with the exception of the power headrest on the passenger side. The engine wiring harness has just been replaced, which is a weak spot on the mid-90s Benzes. The daughter will be driving this one and I want to put a letter T immediately to the left of the license plate.

Thanks for the feedback on synthetics; looks like I will be going this route after break-in. The manual does state to use minimum 87 octane, and to use Sta-bil fuel stabilizer if using E10. We are fortunate enough to have a Shell station in Bend that sells zero-ethanol fuel.

I have a new Cub Cadet SC500EZ self-propelled mower with a 159cc 4 stroke OHV air-cooled electric start engine on the way, and nowhere in the manual or the Cub Cadet site can I locate if synthetic motor oil such as Mobil 1 will work effectively in the engine. I have contacted MTD/Cub Cadet and they can only tell me what is in the manual, which is to say not much. The mower comes with 10/30 non-synthetic and I will be using it for the break-in hours. Thoughts or experience on synthetics in small engines? The interweb seems to be a mixed bag of answers on this, and I intend to have this mower last 10+ years. Hopefully.

I have an intermittent clicking as well coming from the fuse area that I have been living with for 3-4 years. Doesn't seem to be affecting the performance or drivability. It only seems to make the sound as I am driving at low speeds or stopped in traffic (naturally) and have not been able to reproduce it while stopped. Does the horn being engaged cause a click in the fuse area? I have no actual horns in the factory spots out front since 2008, only an aftermarket airhorn wired separately. The clicking started after a replacement steering column was installed in late 2012. Additionally, sorry about the threadjack.

Why stop with bed stacks when you can go 10/10ths with bosozoku exhaust? Since stacks are to get attention and all, this is the logical evolutionary next step.

Have you considered starting with a lumber/ladder rack for this idea? It should be easy to modify to suit your needs with some cutting/welding yourself or take it to a welding shop and spend $$ to have it done to your specs.

^^ this. I run the quietest one I could find when I replaced mine a few years back, as I don't want to be that neighbor warming up a noisy/obnoxious vehicle at 5:30 am.

I have #001663, just a few behind you and referenced above.

I hit 70-75 on accident coming down a long hill form a mountain pass the first year I owned it, but usually its rare to get over 55 for fuel economy's sake during daily driving. The Benz, I may have had it to 110 passing a long line of trucks on a 2 lane highway this summer on the drive from TX to OR, but nobody can prove I did it (except the black box).

I picked up EZ Cool heat/sound insulation from http://www.lobucrod.com/, and it was easy to install with 3M headliner aerosol adhesive. I put it on the roof behind the headliner, along the back wall, and on the B pillars from floor to roof, all behind the paneling. This could be put down under carpet if you dare; the website shows application to floors and firewalls in their images section.