gogmorgo

What now? Is that one of those fancy sports ball things that they play on grass instead of ice?

Are there any lift parts installed other than the springs themselves? Without pics it's hard to diagnose something that hasn't happened to people with seemingly identical parts installed. Is it just one side or both? Is one of the brackets horribly bent? Tires with aggressive side lugs will tend to rub on the lower control arm even in stock size at full steering lock with a factory setup. You're definitely sure the rubbing is on the sway bar link?

My factory a/c works. Why would I ever want to roll down the passenger window? And why would I ever need keyless entry if the doors are never locked?

TJ wheels should be pretty similar to MJ wheels. What front axle are you running? What tire size? What lift parts? Got a picture?

I've got a couple of the 12-led eBay "Cree" 4.5" bars on my grill, think they cost about $50 all said. It's way more light than I actually need, pretty sure a 50" bar is a little excessive, especially if you're wheeling in a group... You'd be the only one able to see anything. Sitting on my grill hard they don't look out of place at all, don't stand out as not matching the classic aesthetic of the truck. Yeah, the guard needs a little straightening, lol.

Doesn't look like it'll work. That the one from a 2-door XJ sitting in front of my MJ's. It's too tall to fit underneath the MJ bucket and looks a little too long as well. Different shape, too, the xj's is a lot less square. But I don't have one from a 4-door to compare, there's a chance they're different, but I don't really see it.

255/75/17 works out to 32.5". 32 is the max diameter people keep quoting on here, with probable rubbing on lca's and fender liners at full steering lock. Given they'll be spaced out a bit, the fender liner rubbing will be worse. But I think 4.5" may be a little more lift than the absolute minimum necessary.

Just put the URL to the video directly in the post without doing anything to it. The forum will embed it automatically.

Try bypassing the fuel pump ballast resistor, white ceramic desk shaped like the Alamo on the driver's inner fender. Jumper between the two wires.

That's actually pretty awesome. Too bad it's so far away and I'm so broke...

The filler neck has a couple pretty good kinks in it, plus it goes into the side of the tank, so it might be awkward getting a not hugely flexible hose down there and then it might not even curve down to the bottom. I've never actually tried it. Pulling the fuel lines off and draining it that way, either by pump or gravity (return line) is going to be a better way to do it for sure.

It's worth mentioning that if you're only pulling the sending unit, it'll come out the side without spilling as long as you're below a half-tank.

Pop the fuel line off the filter, stick it in a gas can, and jump across at the fuel pump relay socket. Assuming your fuel pump works. Or shove a tube down the filler neck and swallow a bunch of gas. The question is why you're trying to siphon out the fuel?

Check your u-joints. Also could be slop in the rear end, 35's are towards the upper end of what an 8.25 can handle, especially if it's the earlier 27-spline version.

Ah. I'm not super familiar with clutches. I was going off of the classic "idling with the clutch in will put more wear on the throwout bearing" logic.

Having that panel screw down will also make it much easier to clean out the cupholders.

As long as the axle tube and the hole for the wheel bearing are concentric you should be good. If they're far enough out to cause a problem, you'll likely have trouble getting the axle shaft in properly. The upper ball joint does have some vertical movement to it, so the gap allows it to move as needed. Why it needs movement I'm not sure. The lower ball joint keeps everything fixed in place... Maybe it's to account for casting differences in the C? Allowing for minor flexing in the C without binding the steering when you go over bumps?

Ouch. I don't know that I ever checked out headliners when I was there. There's a chance there's a maroon (cordovan I think) one in good shape, but I don't have much hope for any of the others. Seat situation is the same, might be able to pull a maroon passenger side seat, but the matching driver's seat is gone and I think the others all have benches. If your brackets are still good, the seats are the same as a two-door XJ. I'll likely be in the yard soonish, next excuse I have to run into the city, and can take pics and stuff. Although when I was there a month ago, not much has changed from when I was there two years ago and took these: https://m.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.335036636673427.1073741835.100005012804395&type=1&l=cc0f081cc2

I once had a harmonic balancer start failing, the rubber bit moved about 1/8", which was enough to smack the belt into the timing cover once per revolution, chirping every time it hit. The belt cut itself a tidy little groove in the timing cover before I figured it out.

The Can-back stuff looks to be of pretty good quality. But then it better be considering they start around $2000...

They say it's for the 73" bed. 6'1" = short bed. $699 + $49 for the optional boot cover and +$79 for the optional rear mesh screen.

Wouldn't the throwout bearing only be doing something when you've got the clutch pedal pushed in?

Don't really know. It's my nephew's 4th birthday so I'll probably be sticking around Edmonton for a bit, but not sure yet at this point.

Think I remember seeing this one on kijiji about a month or two ago? I'm way out of the way in Manitoba, but get around every now and again, got family all over the continent. There's a handful of reasonably complete MJ's in a yard not too far away that look like I'm the only person whose pulled anything off them in four years, if you're needing anything. Might be heading out to the Edmonton or Grande Prairie areas sometime in late November/early December. Looks like a good deal and a decent platform to build off. :thumbsup:

You should be able to mount the bumper the same way you've seen it on the short beds. If anything you have less stuff to work around. The bolt holes are all the same, the only difference is that on a long bed you don't have to do anything to clear the leaf spring shackle mount. They use all the same parts from the factory.