gogmorgo

You should probably use a better lubricant than WD-40. Use a grease that'll actually stick around.

I like NGK coppers but am currently running Champions (the cheap ones) because I couldn't find the NGK's locally. I don't really care much for the idea of paying $10 per plug, and I'm not sold on the tiny little needle of an electrode the fancy ones have.

I've also sent some along. I wouldn't say I'd be lost without you guys, but I'd probably be wandering around in a dark hallway or something. :cheers:

Or just hook up a mechanical gauge to test oil pressure. That sounds kinda similar to what I experienced, but probably no two flexplates crack the same way. Like I said, I had no problems pulling a pretty heavy load up a steep ditch out of a pretty stuck place. Driving around a parking lot or stop and go traffic caused problems. Something else worth checking, are all the bellhousing bolts tight? I had a pretty rough go of it when mine weren't. Strange tapping noise from the back of the engine bay, stalling out under load, etc. Turns out that two of the bolts between the engine and bellhousing had sheared, one had gone completely missing, and the last one (a tiny top one) was hanging on by only a couple threads. Pretty certain that was what lead to my flexplate cracking, given it was really the only thing holding the engine and trans together at that point.

But an actual NOS tailgate? Don't think I've ever seen one come up before.

How much does buying stickers and other cc gear support the site? Just curious at this point.

Get a stethoscope and poke around. I had a flexplate crack on me a few years ago, and the sound was definitely coming from the bellhousing. It was also visible as a hairline crack once I pulled the inspection cover off, right up around where it bolts to the crackshaft. By the time I got around to changing it out, about four months after I found the source of the noise, six months after I started noticing it, it was in two pieces. Still running and driving, but causing timing problems, stalling out and such, since the outer part where the CPS reads wasn't attached to the crankshaft. Although the crack wasn't perfectly circular and everything is held pretty tight together in there, so it didn't stop me from yanking a second-gen Avalanche out of deep snow in a ditch, or really anything less severe. IIRC it made the most noise at low load, i.e. parking lot speeds, a bit at idle, and not as much under heavy loads.

What engine are you thinking of? Unless it's something ridiculous I'm sure it's been done already.

Yeah, just needs a couple more zip ties on the other side of the break.

Sorry, don't know, and googling returns pretty wild variation in results. What I do know is they aren't both the same size, and I'm pretty sure only one of them is metric, which was the cause of my problem, the bolts were in the wrong holes and not tightened down properly at all.

Yeah, no nss on a manual.

The starter may be wearing out, but most likely it's just binding because it's not bolted down properly, which could shorten it's life too, I suppose. Mine did that too for a while. Still worked when I bolted it back on.

Anyone here knit? I bet it would make for a great pattern. I'm kinda getting sick of all these printed-onto-lame-massproduced-garbage-sweater "ugly christmas sweaters" that people keep trying to push. The whole point of the ugly sweater is it's something a family member lovingly knit for you and as a result is a horrible embarrassment but you wear it anyway cause you love your great aunt. Not something that the ink washes off of after a couple washes.

:agree: That's probably where you bought the first set.

Yes, check the battery cables, make sure they aren't corroded or fraying. If they're good try starting in neutral, or moving the shifter back ad forth from park to neutral and then trying to start. Obviously this only applies to automatic transmissions, but if yours is an automatic, do this: http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neutral-safety-switch-nss/ before replacing any parts.

Just like an image on the desktop (non-mobile) site, you need to have the image hosted elsewhere, and then link to it. Only instead of having the luxury of a button that does it for you on the desktop site, you need to manually enter the tags yourself. Your code should have this format: [img]http://www.webpage.com/image.jpg[/img]As an example, this picture: was posted using this code: [img]https://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/rlquw9jj3f8vr7uwb1xv.jpg[/img]As an FYI I wrote most of my posts (including this one) on a mobile device, manually coding anything fancy I've wanted in the post. But then I've been using bbcode forums (such as this one) for a long time before they came up with fancy buttons that did everything for you. I haven't even tried tapatalk, seems like a waste to me, getting an app for something I can already do. The only advantage I can think of is that tapatalk hosts photos, which streamlines posting them to this site, but I've never been too bothered by that.

I've noticed that the air box can get a little warped. Make sure it's properly closed and all the clips are in place. It should kinda clamp down on the foamy bit around the outside of the filter to make a seal.

Depending on the offset of the wheels, you'll likely get some rubbing at full steering lock on either the inner fenders or the lower control arms. 265/75/15 is just under 31" in diameter. You should be able to run up to 32" at stock height (and stock wheels) without problems other than rubbing the lower control arms. Spacers or less offset will take care of that but push the tire out into the fenders.

Mine might have a bit more on them then that, and they're a year newer, but I'm guessing my extra wear is going to have a lot to do with the amount of gravel I see. Probably 10-20% of the miles. Cool. Most noticeably the edges of my tread blocks aren't quite as square as yours, but it looks like there's a little bit less tread depth too. Mine haven't lost air either, even when they were sitting for 16 months. Apart from the nail incident as well. Definitely impressed with the tires for what I paid for them.

How many miles do you have on those Grabbers? They look like they're wearing a little bit better than the ones on my MJ. How much gravel do yours see? Just curious, really. Funny story that's almost relevant, one of the Grabbers on my Niva picked up a nail too. Like, back in July I noticed it. I wasn't driving it due to no brakes (among other things), so I just marked it on the tire and left it. After a couple weeks I noticed it wasn't loosing much air, so I pulled the nail out to see if it actually went through. Massive rush of air. Shoved the nail back in. Somehow it still has 25 psi in it three months later...

Saw this come up today. http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/regina/1992-lada-niva-pickup-truck/1208581407 :dunno:

So which one do you want where, and why? The shifter is part of the column, so it'll just be hanging out doing nothing going into the four-banger. If you put the non-column shift into the automatic, you'll have to source and put in a floor shifter, or figure something else out cause you'll loose the shifter.

Unless the auto has a column shift, the two should be pretty well the same. There are some year-to-year differences, but not too significant.

You could just get yours recovered, probably the easiest option.

+50hp at least!