gogmorgo

Lol @ bright but pothole. Is there a chance that your new LED gauge lights are so bright they're bleeding into the upshift light? I would think that if that's the case, it would only come on dimly if when the lights are on, but I'd also expect a little bleed to the other lights in that panel too if that was the case. Could also be a random bulb holder for a feature you don't have but that is still in the wiring harness, or a bulb holder that came loose from where it's supposed to be as well I suppose.

Too late for the OP, but for anyone else reading this, when I was putting mine back together, I found that if the alignment was slightly off it seemed like the dowel pins wouldn't slide in properly. Once I had it sitting so that the crankshaft and input shaft were on the same axis, it slid on almost perfectly. Left-right seemed to be more important than up-down, as I was able to lift and drop the back end of the engine ever so slightly to wiggle them home. Having a transmission jack with the adjustable tilt head probably helped a lot as well.

Hopefully a little bit of rest! I'm expecting the Niva's motor mounts to show up this week, which hopefully will be the last final pieces of the puzzle to get it back on the road... But this is the sixth so-called "final" piece so you never know...

Yup, just checked package rates and yeah, it'll be ballpark CAD$100. Put up a wanted ad in the classifieds. Might find something closer.

Have you ever cleaned up the NSS? http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neutral-safety-switch-nss/ Symptoms of a bad (generally just dirty) NSS are everything looking okay but intermittent no-cranks. Sometimes if you shift to neutral or move the shifter back and forth quickly you can clean the contacts off enough to get it to start. Other things to look at are loose or corroded battery cables. Both ends. I'm not convinced they need greasing either. Could also be a dead spot in the starter I suppose.

Yup. I had the same. It'll idle but touch the throttle and she dies. It's likely just the residual pressure bleeding down.

The 242 (also 4.0 and aw4) in my MJ came out of a '93 XJ used for plowing snow. Seems to have held up just fine. I've been ripping around in snow a couple feet deep over the last week, donuts, etc, in full-time and haven't broken anything yet. As far as the reputation goes, yes, they have a reputation for failure, but I would also argue that because of the full-time option the chain and everything gets significantly more use than a part-time case does. Everything for the '93 into '91 swap was plug and play, except a little bit of wiring confusion with the 4x4 lights due to the change from a CAD to non-CAD setup. And my '91's early speedometer assembly went right in in place of the '93's. If you can find one, as with any 4x4 swap, it's probably best to pull everything from the same donor to ensure compatibility. My (mostly) mechanically sound but rotten-body donor cost $300. For better on-road performance, you'll also enjoy upgrading to CV axle shafts.

I've got a full console from a '93 XJ in the basement. Should be the same, only it's grey, not beige like yours. Yours for the cost of shipping if you want it... But it won't be cheap from the great white north. I can keep an eye out for a beige one (pretty sure that Waggy had one) but it may be a while before I get back to a yard... The reason plans changed yesterday was cause it was -30 that morning.

Been there done that. Several years ago. https://m.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.335036636673427.1073741835.100005012804395&type=1&l=cc0f081cc2 Got no takers. :dunno:

Well plans have changed and I didn't end up heading down there. Stuff sitting in the back sections of this particular yard stays there. They've got tons of old iron that hasn't moved for years, including six MJ's that don't look like they've had anyone other than myself picking parts off since I started going there. Hell, they've even got a couple Yugos, a Lada, and a Laforza just slowly sinking into the weeds. Zero entry fee, decent prices, they let you wander around by yourself, it's a great yard... Trouble is they also keep bankers hours and aren't open weekends.

Right. I was mixing it up with the thing that keep your head slights on.There's a yard I'm planning on visiting tomorrow that had an '86 Waggy with the sentry the last few times I was there, if anyone wants the panel. If you want all the sensors and $#!& though you'll really have to make it worthwhile for me cause we just got a couple feet of snow so I'm not thrilled about crawling all over it.

I suspect you're taking about the panel of warning lights on the left, and the blank under the clock on the right? Never heard anything called "sigma six". The one on the left has stuff like the 4x4 lights, check engine, emissions maintenance reminder, and a couple others that slip my mind. The one on the right has the clock. That's it. Unless you have the somewhat rare fluid sentinel (or whatever it's called) in which case it has fluid level warning lights for all of them.

Same for me. It's only seven things you have to remember, and the order isn't hugely important I don't think. I question the value of a mnemonic device where half the device doesn't mean anything, but I guess you did remember it. My recollection of learning Roman numerals ~20 years ago is most students who struggled had more problems with the basic arithmetic involved than the interpretation of the numerals, and grasping that smaller numerals before larger ones reduced the size of the number instead of adding to it... but then they were six-year-olds.

Breaker bar and socket? I'm usually too lazy to drag out the compressor to use the impact. My experience with those four-ways is that they're usually cheaply made and pretty good at making hexagons round. Like the cheapo spare tire jacks most cars come with, they're usually only good in a pinch, and probably not for very many uses. I've only got a light impact wrench, maybe 450lb-ft. I can get that if not more onto a 2' breaker bar, and have broken all kinds of bolts without much effort. I don't know if I've ever broken one with the impact, though. The main advantage of the impact is it doesn't turn very stuck things very far with each percussive hit, which means generally it won't put enough stress into a fastener to make it yield, and the repeated percussion does tend to slowly break things loose. It's more likely you'll pull the threads out than it is you'll break it off, IMO. But next time I've got something stuck enough to prompt me to pull out the rattle gun, I might just try dribbling some candle wax on it first.

Yeah, I wasn't debating the mechanism that draws the wax in (capillary action, yo) but the mechanism for unsticking. Most penetrating oils bill themselves primarily as rust dissolving agents it seems, with lubrication as a secondary function, although most are too thin to be much good at it. The advantage of the candle wax is that when meted it's thin enough to get drawn in but thick enough when it cools to effectively lubricate, at least that's my guess. If that is what's going on, logically there would be a certain point of rustiness where this would stop working, as the two surfaces will have bonded to each other such that the wax won't be enough. Although I am tempted to go dribble some candle wax onto rusted metal to go see what sorts of rust-reducing properties it might have. I still think it's just a lube.

For those too lazy to click links: This is interesting. I'm guessing the hot wax just gets pulled in and lubricates everything? I can't really see it dissolving rust or anything like that. One other thing I find interesting is why he's using that silly four-way lug wrench.

It may not be absolutely critical, but tiny details like this can be the difference between an engine running for 300,000 miles and 500,000 miles. Spinning the bearings with no oil pressure, especially if there's not much oil residue left on the bearings, is still metal on metal, and those few seconds of dry wear can be the equivalent of tens or hundreds of thousands of miles of lubricated wear. Just my 2¢.

What brand CPS did you use? Lots of members have had trouble with parts store brands. Check the fuel pressure before pulling things apart. Abnormally loud is typically a sign of a failing fuel pump yeah, but mine was super load for years (and tens of thousands of miles) before it died, and even then it would still start and run (incredibly badly) and I drove about 800 miles from when it started acting up to when I finally replaced it... 800 long miles without being able to exceed 2000 rpm. Could be clogged filter (although again I once pulled a filter off and poured what looked like a rich cup of hot chocolate out the back of a filter and it ran the same with a new filter), or there's a chance the rubber hose connecting the fuel pump to the sending unit has failed. But check your fuel pressure before messing with things. Considering the only thing that changed is the CPS, that's not a bad candidate for what's at fault here. Also make sure the new wires aren't touching the exhaust manifold.

Even at stock height I had to support the hitch anyway to get it high enough to line up any of the holes. I had no problems at all getting the side plates over the bulge in the bunker brackets. In related news, my krusty's hitch just saved my factory bumper from some heavy crunching this evening. I was messing around in the drag snow and followed some tracks that went up a hill through what didn't look like much of a trail until the vehicle had gone up it, alongside a hydro line. I made it a short distance up the hill, spun out, and backed down onto the road except I stopped very abruptly in the ditch. Surprised (because I had no trouble getting through the ditch the first time) I got out and discovered that the receiver had slammed hard into the side of the road. Turning in I went through at a slight angle that was enough to not have that problem. Without the hitch, the bumper would have slammed into the edge of the pavement. I also discovered after getting out and following them a short distance (on foot, never did make it up that hill with open diffs) that whatever made the tracks had tracks instead of wheels. Oops. Beyond the receiver being packed full of dirt and some scratched paint, everything back there looks A-OK. Solid piece of kit! :thumbsup:

Word of warning, the 8.25 from the '92 is the weaker early version, not really any better than a D35. Mine went away when my XJ donor got scrapped.

Replacement bulb list I just walked into random parts store, gave the drone my year, make, and model, and even up in the Great White North they had one in stock. :dunno: But it did cost me more than $20. I'm pretty certain it's been reused in quite a few Jeeps over the years. Edit: maybe not a bunch of Jeeps, but the Airtex switch listed on Rock Auto also lists some AMC's and a bunch of 60's and 70's plymouths, so, um, yeah. The purpose of the headlight harness upgrade isn't so much to improve lighting (but that is a happy coincidence) but rather to remove load from the headlight switch and wires. From the factory the entire load from the headlights goes through the switch, which is barely up to the task of that load. Then add years of corrosion, and the resistance in the wires increases, leading to bigger loads, and the switch can't handle it any more. All the relay harness does is add some relays to the system to pull the load off the switch. It goes between the bulbs and sockets too, using the factory wiring to trigger the relays. I need to put together another one for my XJ, when I get around to it I'll try to make a write-up this time.

I don't think there ever were factory XJ/MJ CV shafts. The CH8220 (left) and CH8221 (right) both list up to '93 for XJ and MJ, and '93-'98 ZJ as applications, so there's a good chance they are the ZJ shafts. Come to think of it the shafts I ran after I broke my first u-joint came out of a ZJ (and I think also had bigger u-joints... and the second one I broke was one of them IIRC). These were literally the cheapest new shafts I could source at the time (lucked out on a closeout sale), which was mostly why I got them. As far as tearing up the Autocross, the XJ and MJ are disturbingly good for having two solid axles. Even with my open rear diff in 2wd I surprised a couple people, but that was back before the NP242 went in. I want eventually to get Trutracs or similar in mine. I'm a big fan of the Torsen T1, but it doesn't really exist any more, ad I don't think it ever did for the D30 and 8.25 which I'll be putting into the MJ once I've collected all the components. Probably going to leave the rear open for now cause my 8.25 already has 4.10's, but if I need a new carrier anyway to regear the 3.55 D30 I have sitting around... yeah. But that's a dream a long way off for now, more important things to waste spend money on.

Obviously you've tried turning the headlight knob to un-dim them? If the switch is older, there's a good chance the rheostat coil has either developed dead spots or ceased working all together, in which case you'll have to replace the headlight switch. If you do end up pulling the switch (or even if you don't) if the connector for it looks melted at all, you should definitely look into upgrading your headlights with a relay harness before your switch gets hot enough to set itself on fire like mine did.

I've got CV shafts as well in mine, got about 15,000 miles on them now I think. Surtracks I got off RockAuto as listed for r my MJ. I didn't even need to knock the tone rings off, they went in great, but then I've got the later bearings etc. on my '91. Why do I like the CV's? Well, for daily driver use, especially with my 242 you pretty much can't tell they're there in 4x4, none of that back-and-forth hopping you get with u-joints with some steering lock. Plus I've actually broken a couple u-joints on my MJ, but haven't managed to do so without also wrecking the yoke. And they have still taken some abuse with no complaints so far.

Nope, she's a total jumble up there. Definitely velcro on the back of the module, but no idea where the corresponding velcro actually is. Couldn't feel it on the lower dash panel at least, which is where I thought it was. I don't have much for light in there at the moment, so I might try a little more reconnaissance tomorrow for the corresponding velcro if I remember during the day... it's that time of year where I get to watch both the sunrise and sunset during my eight-hour shift.