gogmorgo

What year Dakota? It might work but it would probably look awkward... my buddy has a cap off a 90's Taco on his '15 Colorado. It's ugly as sin but it works for him I guess. Take your measuring tape and find out.

So the hood and door panels are back on, all fluids are topped up, hitting the road for the Lemons Rally Retreat from Moscow to Paris later today once I've got everything packed up. 10,000km here I come

Yeah, the wheelbase seems a bit weird to me too. But it could be a funky wide-angle lens or something.

Check your fuel pressure before you start pulling things apart. You can also try bypassing the fuel pump ballast resistor. When my fuel pump went this summer it was more of a slow failure, the pump getting weaker and weaker, not all of a sudden. But there are many potential failure modes.

What fuel are you buying and how often? Mostly just curious. Can't hurt to toss some water remover/ gas-line antifreeze in there. My tank is rusted pretty badly on the outside, to the point I'm almost concerned about it. But I pulled the sender this summer to replace the fuel pump and everything in there was minty and brand-new looking, even though I have no issues believing it all to be original, 300,000 miles later, based on what I see out side. Only difference between all the nasty ones I see you guys posting that I can think of is six months of winter fuel up here in Canada.

A thing happened! Yes, finally, everything is back together! Well, mostly everything. There's still a couple bits and pieces that need to go back on. So the saga continues with me getting the pan onto the engine, and then struggling to get the engine back in, and then catching the throw-out bearing retaining spring (or whatever it's called, it's riveted to the pressure plate) on the firewall and breaking it, and having to order a new clutch to replace it. The new clutch takes all of two weeks (crazy fast) to show up, but it takes a while to get around to putting it on. But I do that, late November/early December, and go to put the engine back in only to discover the threads on the motor mounts are screwed up. So I order new ones. Watching the tracking info they make it real close, and then start working their way further and further away. Eventually they show up, and the package is in this bag that says "sorry we damaged your mail", and the package itself had been cut open with a note saying the postmaster of the nearby small-town post office (that it shouldn't have ended up at, small mistake during the holiday rush I suppose) cut it open to attempt to locate the addressee... Of course his cut went straight from the return address sticker on the package to my address on the package... And he still missed it. Which instead of tossing it on the mail van the next day and it showing up here meant it took a two-week trip through friggen Montreal. And then when they did show up it was pretty well -40 for the next two weeks, and I don't have a heated workspace. Fortunately though it did warm up (well, it got up to freezing, some of you might not think that's warm) and so I did get to work on it. After two days of struggling to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing, I says screw it, and pulled the transmission back out, and lined the two up outside the engine bay, (took all of 10 seconds) and then tossed it all back together. I drove it about 100 miles today. Up and back along the twisty road over the (pathetic) mountain in the dark and a (mild) snow storm. Seems to be working great. And in a move that inspired me to take a moment of silence for Cummins owners everywhere, I even passed an empty 3/4-ton going up the mountain. Passing in the Niva is a rare occurrence. Passing while going uphill? Can't remember the last time it happened.

That guy paid $5, I paid $2.50. What do I win? Also surprised it made it that soon. It usually takes twice as long for things going the other direction.

Mm. I actually know very little about the '97+ XJ's. It's probably obvious sometimes.

What under panel? There was a factory skid plate that "protected" the steering components (it's pretty thin) and that could also keep some stuff from splashing up into the engine bay, but I think that's about it. You might luck out and spot one under the front of an XJ.

May as well join the party I guess.

If you mix HO/Renix I believe they'll read backwards. The correct year XJ ones will read in the correct direction but not the correct level without modification because of where they sit in the different shaped tanks. At least that's my understanding.

What are you swapping from? Did you make sure you had the correct pilot bushing/bearing? Otherwise, yeah. Just wiggle it back and forth a little, up and down, and it should just slide on. I've also seen people say they've used longer bolts with heads cut off threaded into the engine block for extra alignment help. I'm not super familiar with the ax15, but the lips on the dowel pins, are they normal? All the dowel pins I've ever seen have been smooth.

I just picked up a Leer cap, MJ-specific, LWB. It's missing the entire rear door, glass, frame, hinges, struts, latches, everything. If anyone has one from a damaged cap (please don't pull a good one apart!) I'm very interested. Don't know whether or not the short bed caps will be the same or not. I'm located in Manitoba, Canada (located within postal code R0J 1N0, US zip code 58329 is close enough if cheaper enough) but I get around as well. Currently looking at a road trip from here to NY, south to 'Bama, and back up here in the next few weeks.

Have you tried cleaning yours? It should only take a half hour or so. This used to be a good link to a write-up but it went offline or something recently. Might come back..? http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep%2Dneutral%2Dsafety%2Dswitch%2Dnss/

Mine doesn't have that many doors. But otherwise it looks good.

I know of people who swear by frams and claim they've never had an issue, but they're also the kind of people who always change oil and filter every 5000km or 6 months, and with that religious a schedule (plus not running the cheapest oil) anything will last a while. I don't run them myself, although there is one on my old 4.0 which I bought because it was the cheapest when I changed to 20w50 after it started knocking so I could move it around the yard. I've got a Mobil-1 m204 on the 4.0 in the MJ now, buy them in bulk cause they also fit my Niva. Between that and running the same Rotella (in pails when it's on sale) in both of them I can save a bunch of money.

Especially where I live, lol. Nearest gas station open past 10:00pm is a 200km trip.

Yeah. I don't anticipate the cap will be a permanent fixture, depending on what it does to my mpg, which is why I went with the clamps. I really only want it for somewhere to stay on road trips.

I've talked to the "local" Leer dealer, and didn't get much response, trying another one. There's a truck cap retailer I drive past every so often I just remembered about that I might trying stopping in at. Would the cap have been installed at the factory or by the dealer? This one's the same colour as the truck it came off, which makes me think factory, but that's no guarantee. It didn't look like it had come off before. How are yours attached? Instead of the clamps I expected it was bolted down with some stupid Phillips-head bolts, five of which came off nicely-ish after getting soaked in PB, but the last one broke two of my screwdrivers and then stripped out and needed cut off. Instead of drilling holes through my bed rails I just swiped some clamps off another truck at the yard.

Whelp. I bought it. Still can't find a serial number on it anywhere. Any chance I could borrow someone else's serial number? :dunno: Leer still hasn't got back to me (again). I think for temporary I'll cut a piece of plywood to fit. Being that there's no door at all, the only Lexan I could find in a sheet that size wasn't very rigid, and costs a ton more than I'd like to pay. I also picked up a 36" piano hinge for the top, unless someone has more insight into what the genuine hinges would look like... Feels like I'm talking to a wall here a bit.

The Cobalt SS was developed on the Nurburgring, and was posting lap times not far off entry-level Porsches. Pretty good for what it cost.

There are plenty of hosts that you don't need to use your phone to get at. I'd avoid photobucket.com, which is what most people seem to use here (couldn't say why, it's an episode in frustration any dime I deal with it) but imgur.com works great, and there's a ton of others, just google "image hosting". Facebook even works, although you need privacy set to completely public, and they like to change their URL's every so often which is frustrating. A lot of my posts end up somewhere else too, and I can borrow the photos back from there. Also, Pete, where did the how-to for posting pictures go? I can't find it, and when I clicked a link I was told I didn't have permission (could be a mobile issue) to view it. Also missing for a while was my "how to make posts look awesome" thread, but I mostly just wanted to not have all that work go down the tube. The two used to be pinned in the "testing" forum. :dunno:

If you need help translating some of those French documents I'll be more than happy to help.

Why is this relevant? Shouldn't the dmv be able to look them up by your VIN? Mine was. Max towing with metric ton/aw4 is 5000lbs.

But there could be any other motivation for that. It could be that they're afraid taking off too much material could cause the clutch to not keep adequate pressure on it, or it could even simply be they want to sell more new flywheels.