gogmorgo

Heh. In my mind the refuse bulb in the bright indicator is too bright. Apparently the previous owner of my XJ though the same cause he covered it with a few layers of opaque scotch tape.

*unusually endowed. An unusual height could also be a small one. ;)

I'm a pretty big of the big old hump down the middle. It's what gives the XJ/MJ it's car-like driving characteristics and seating position while still allowing for a ton of ground clearance. As for seating more than two people, back when I was younger and foolisher I managed to get five passengers into my cab, and I don't have a bench. I mean, sure, it may not have been super comfortable (and asking to get pulled over for sure) but it worked for the ten mile ride home. The girl sitting on the trans tunnel said she particularly enjoyed the experience.

For a more detailed explanation, there are two different engine management (i.e. fuel injection and ignition) systems that came in Comanches, commonly referred to as Renix and H.O. From '87 to '90, (and possibly earlier on the 2.5L) they used the Renix system, as developed for AMC by Renault/Bendix. '91 and '92 used Chrysler's "High Output" system, H.O. for short, also called OBD1. It's a small hp bump, mostly due to a better flowing head, but is also much better to deal with. That said, there is a sect among us that believes otherwise, but we're pretty sure they'll still get to heaven... maybe.

I would still call it unlikely that the bulb is wrong. There's a chance it got damaged in shipping but if anything it would just be broken or burnt out. Should be a two-filament deal, as long as that's the case I doubt it'll cause problems. Does the light illuminate with the fast/regular blinking? Another thing you can do is swap the hazard light flasher with the turn signal flasher. Two cylindrical relays in your fuse block. Your flasher will flash quickly if it doesn't have enough load on it (like if a bulb is burnt out) or if there's power coming around it (from some other source... one of our work trucks does this because the lights on the service body were wired into both brake and turn signals, so if you step on the brakes the signals speed up). So if you're getting fast blinking all the time, in both directions, either there's a bulb out somewhere or there 12v shorting somewhere, or you've got an open circuit. Do all four of the front bulbs work? Do your hazard lights work? Does anything change if you've got your parking lights or headlights on? One other thing. Do you have trailer wires? If so, what does the connection point look like? If you don't need them and they're as sketchy as most of them are at this age, might as well just get rid of them.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/41500-mj-light-bulb-list-led-replacements/ Yeah they're the correct bulbs. Make sure the ground is in good shape, it's behind the driver's side tail light. Can't hurt to check the connector got the tail light harness, either, along the driver's side frame between the rear wheel and bumper. Make sure you've got the correct bulbs working properly up front as well.

Hopefully that's your problem. Ive had CPS-failure symptoms because my bellhousing bolts went AWOL. Hard to read the flywheel when it's moving around in the bellhousing. Just something to think about.

I was able to shove a one-piece shaft into the tube with no issues, except for the part where the shaft flings gear oil out the end of the tube. The CAD seal isn't compatible with the single-shaft. There's another seal you can install inside the diff, but no guarantees the surface it goes on has been machined. Forget the cable. Just pull the CAD apart and lock it in permanently. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/ Link but photobucket sucks as much as I've been telling people for years. But it's a commonly done thing, just pulling the clip off, sliding the collar over, and putting the clip back on.

If it does have multiple gears, the tach might be critical. It would be pretty difficult to judge the motor speed by ear. And yeah, using off-the-shelf components is usually cheaper than designing new ones, especially for a first-generation vehicle. The first Tesla was really just a kinda hokey electric Lotus Elise, and look what they're doing now, ten years later. Hopefully this one can hang in there long enough to get there too. The cageyness in giving out details is a bit of a tech-industry thing. You're often building something pretty innovative, and you don't want a competitor getting their hands on the nitty-gritty and getting to market first. The other thing that happens is the marketing people don't know all the tech specs, but the engineers are not always the people you want talking to the public.

http://tinelok.com/grade-5-vs-grade-8-fasteners/ Grade 8 bolts will always be stronger. You can use the bolts out of any XJ up to 2001, they don't need to come out a 30-year-old vehicle. But I lived in Ontario for a couple years and will confirm that you'll see way more rust on a 10-year-old vehicle than you would on a 30-year-old truck back home in MB (You know they build cars out there when...) so do whatever makes you happy.

It's cool, but I'd never own this one. With several European countries working on banning the sale of gas and diesel vehicles by 2040, it'll happen this side of the pond sooner or later. There have been a few reasonably successful electric car attempts, but not much in the way of trucks or other utility vehicles. This is a first step in getting there, which is cool, but it's still got a long way to go.

Any lift will affect your caster, and not all alignment shops will bother to check it. Some people have attributed death-wobble to improper caster angles, but you likely will only experience a change in how the steering centres itself, if anything. If you do level your truck, kindly make sure your headlights get adjusted down to compensate.

Obviously a copy of the EJS concept from last year. It does get rid of the janky convertible top, but it definitely has proportion issues. I thought Jeep's version had too little wheelbase, Boar's is worse. Give it an extra 12" wheelbase for a 6' bed, 18" for a long bed, rake the back of the cab a little less steeply and toss a plastic vent cover behind the door, and bed sides that flow from the BU's body lines. Call it the BJ Commanche (deliberate misspelling). Sure it'll still be fwd biased which sucks, but it will look alright, hopefully get a little more beef in the drivetrain for decent payload and towing, and probably sell quite a few units. There's a reason people buy the Honda Ridgeline, which is reasonably capable for what it is but also butt ugly. This will look better, be the small car-like truck a variety of people are looking for, and maybe actually have a three-pedal option for whatever that's worth. Except FCA is building a Wrangler truck and won't want to steal sales from that. I can see the appeal of the JT I guess, but I'm really not crazy about it. I'd prefer a unibody myself.

No. Nothing will compare with a proper winter tire on snowy roads. But really, the BFG KO's are absolute garbage in snow and on ice. I've spent entire winters on ancient, dry rotted, age cracked, and nearly bald all(no)-seasons and not had any serious problems. The KO's with reasonable tread left may as well have been drag slicks for all the traction they gave on ice. And it's not just in my MJ I've noticed it, I got stuck with a set on one of my work trucks too, eventually gave up the idea that I could go around corners or take off from a stop without sticking the @$$ of the truck out because it just wasn't happening. Even the Grabber AT2's and the KO2's won't compare on snow or ice to an actual set of winter tires, but at least they let you drive without having to pretend there's an egg between your boot and the pedals. And that's a big deal to me. Wanna know when the last time I was driving on snowy roads was? June 10th. I've seen snow falling every single month of the year, and need a tire that's going to be able to deal with it. The number of people I know running winter tires year-round is ridiculous. I definitely don't have the budget to do that and only get a year out of the tires.

Saw that earlier today. Kinda makes me hungry. Off to go buy some avocados I guess...

Google's image hosting service isn't great for 3rd-party forum use. The links they use aren't the URL of the image file itself, but more a navigation to find the file in their index. Perhaps it cuts down on bandwidth a bit on their end, but the only reason I see for doing it that way is to block use on 3rd-party sites. Imgur works great. I've been using it for years. There was a point where they were making you pay if you had too many photos stored on your account, but there's no actual need to create an account, so long as the photo gets accessed every so often. How do you access it? Just pop through the thread where you put it. Or have someone else do it.

TL/DR, I'm curious what your findings are, I'm in the same boat. Would like more options. I've also been looking for a 33x10.5 that'll do well in the snow. The only one I've found so far is the KO2. We ran KO2's almost exclusively on the work trucks back home, and they're decent tires. My only gripe is I've noticed they have a tendency to grab onto rocks and hold them in the tread until the road eventually hammers them through the tire. This isn't ideal for me because of the amount of gravel roads I see, because unlike our fleet shop I don't have a tire-changing machine and a stack of patches to put on quickly a couple times a month. I've been running Grabber AT2's in a 235/75/15, and they're decent. Not particularly amazing anywhere, but they'll cut through snow until I'm plowing with the bumpers and with 30,000 miles they still had plenty of tread. I was kinda hoping for something like that. I'd say 15-20% of the miles I did were on gravel, and yeah they did tend to fling rocks a bit but then I never had one punch its way through the tire... it's just they're not available in 33x10.5's. The other day I was on tirerack just to see if anything new had come up, and the Grabber X3 (and the Grabber) both come up in a 33x10.5x15 under "severe snow rated", except the only thing I've managed to track down is that they're "M+S", but don't get the snow-peak rating, which means up here in the Great White North they won't count as a winter tire. I've read several reviews suggesting that they're good in snow, but then I've also heard people claim the original BFG KO's are good in snow, and um... well they were on my MJ when I bought it, and it only took one snowstorm to discover I needed something better. So I'm pretty nervous about dropping money on the X3, to say the least. Another knock against the X3 and TireRack's "severe snow rating" is that the regular Grabber also comes up, but is definitely not a snow performer. Early this spring I ran over a deer and lost two of my tires, and then discovered my spare didn't hold air very well, so right now I'm running Hercules TerraTrac II's, cause when you lose two tires and your spare is not good you end up with whatever the first tire shop you get to has in stock. They're also not snow-peak rated, and don't look like they'll be great, although they do plenty well on wet roads, gravel, and sharp rocks. I may end up having to pick myself up an actual set of winter tires, which I was hoping to avoid doing. But if I find a 33x10.5r15 other than the KO2 with the snow-peak rating, the TerraTracs will go onto my Jimmy.

Just to clarify for anyone wondering about the emissions timer and "maint req'd" light. It's called a timer because that's what it is. It turns the light on after the odometer rolls past 80,000 miles. It has zero connection at all to anything other than the speedometer. Unless you have another reason to replace the O2 sensor, I wouldn't bother. My bulb is burnt out or I pulled it once when I had the cluster out and forgot. Either way its not worth my time and effort to investigate.

It's been two months but picked this Jimmy up, running, driving, and perfectly legal for $250. It's cost me a bit more than that again in parts, but I've already put 3000 miles on it. I think that's about as much weight as I want to pull without trailer brakes. It's definitely heavier than the MJ is itself.

The Ecodiesel isn't "current" in anything right now. Something emissions, dieselgate, yada yada. They've stopped delivering them.

Why do you need one that bolts to the bottom? There are a few universal hitches that do that.

Until last summer my MJ didn't have license plate lights at all and I never had an issue with that. Come to think of it I don't know if I even fixed it when I put a "new" harness back there. :dunno: My front plate (again, it's a front plate) is folded up under the bumper cause otherwise it would look stupid. It still does but less so I guess. My Jimmy's plate is only zip-tied on and hangs down below the step part a bit. Can't read the "wild rose country" (yeah it's a lame alberta tag) or even the expiry sticker. I've been pulled over and it hasn't caused me problems so far... but it's only been a month. But combining these two things, go with the 2x6 and fold it under. If anyone complains, "what? oh haha, didn't notice, backed into object X the other day". And it's not like you'd be bending a heck of a lot of it under anyway, given the plate is 6" tall as presumably would be the bumper. Do it nicely to match the chamfer of the bumper's edge top and bottom and it likely won't even get noticed. The plate isn't required to be centred, either, just visible and parallel to the road surface.

A great idea. Probably also makes it easier to slide the bezel across the column. Every time I've pulled one it's been a wince fest hoping this isn't the time I break it. They're pretty brittle when you're pulling them apart outside in the winter.

It's unchanged from when I started coming here in 2012. So that'll be a long while you've not been around. http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/ You probably already saw that. To summarize, you do not upload pictures here. You upload them to the Internet through some other website or hosting service. Then you take the address of that image on the Internet, and paste it into the image tool dialogue box while writing your posts.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/aw4-tcu-wiring-diagram-2331057/ It looks to me like the major hurdles of reusing the existing TCU are adapting the throttle position sensor somewhere and mounting the throttle valve cable. I don't know what your Cummins setup uses for accelerator control, but likely not a throttle valve. Other than the throttle valve (controlling kickdown) and the TPS (also sorta controlling kickdown I would imagine, my MJ shifted like I had my foot to the floor when the TPS went bad) the only external input to the TCU is the output speed sensor, (which isn't actually external, it's a reed switch inside the trans) and everything coming from the NSS, all of which would be retained. I expected to see a tach input or something there but there's not. It's been a while since I read the "everything you want to know about the AW4 thread. Although now that I've been thinking about this a bit, you probably don't want the same shift points on an engine with likely a very different redline and rev range from the 4.0?