gogmorgo

^^^This. There's one bolt, I think between the case halves on a Honda CBR600RR block, that for whatever reason likes to collect oil. And unless we've made damn certain to clear everything out of it, brake clean soak then blasting it out with compressed air for a few minutes, lather rinse repeat a few times, we'd neck and twist it off before getting anywhere close to the torque spec, which was something pathetic like 12 in-lbs... I'll admit it wasn't a big bolt but we broke the third one off before hitting 6. Took us a few times getting the brand new bolt from Honda before we figured out it wasn't just a bunch of defective bolts. Just having the thin film of brake cleaner on it was enough lube to get it to neck.

I want one so bad... Could finance it for $350. Weekly. For the next eight years. Okay maybe I can't finance one, lol. but yeah... Pulls? Yeah it looks like it pulls okay. That hellcat might catch up in the quarter. Maybe.

I've looked into it but I've never been super impressed with the commercially available soft toppers. In addition to the lack of decent looking fit (nothing is actually designed for the MJ, just vehicles with similar dimensions) none of them really seem to have decent solutions for throwing a canoe or something on top. I seem to recall a member on here building their own. If I had the resources that would be the route I'd take. Get the tubes bent myself for an exoskeleton sort of look maybe, hanging the canvas inside the frame, or else figure out a way to get a roof rack to poke through the canvas without compromising it or having any water leaks.

Look under the dash, the intermittent wiper module is a computer looking thing with a flat connector coming out both ends, somewhere around the left knee area I think. Mine once randomly unplugged itself.

I'll second the absolutely the flex plate could've caused your problems. The crank position sensor reads off the windows around the outer edge of the flex plate. Even if the CPS is working properly, if the thing it's reading off isn't properly attached to the crankshaft the signal it puts out will be garbage, and your ignition timing will be all over the map. I I also had similar symptoms when my flex plate cracked. It would be fine for days or weeks at a time, but I could hear the flex plate rattling against itself the whole time (I saw it was cracked through the inspection access but it was quite a few months before I had everything together and the time to fix it) and I'm pretty sure the noise actually got better after it had fully separated... But my crack was pretty jagged and it still drove after that point, by magic. And every now and again it would start giving me issues, I'm guessing the flex plate was just slightly out of line or something. She just wouldn't want to start some days, or I'd be driving around and it would start running like crap and eventually die and refuse to restart, then mysteriously be perfectly fine again after it sat for a few hours. Fixing the flex plate solved most of my problems. A piece of advice on getting the trans out, pick up some replacement quick connectors for the cooler lines, or at least the plastic clips for them. I've yet to take out an aw4 without destroying those clips and/or losing the O-rings or just not getting them to seat properly. I'm at work now but once I get home I can try to find parts numbers for that... None of the parts stores I went to or even the Jeep dealer were particularly helpful there (despite discovering that the parts stores all had everything in stock after I figured out what I needed)

How deep of a flooded intersection are we talking? Most of the engine bay can get a bit wet without problems, although full submersion is a bit different. If the alternator's not putting out the full voltage I can see that causing some issues with various sensors because they'll all be getting too low voltage. But I only say this cause the alternator's low in the bay and can be susceptible to water crossings. Did you unplug the idle air controller (IAC) or otherwise do something with it while you were messing with the TPS?

I've got a Walker downpipe on my MJ. Quality is similar to all the other walker pre-bent pipes. The lack of clearance dent hasn't really caused any interference that I've noticed, despite my somewhat saggy 530,000km original springs and loading the truck down on rough roads. I got the pipe for a '93 XJ not the one linked. It looked to me that it would be exactly the same as the -'92 except for having just a 2-1/4 straight pipe outlet instead of the cat flange, which made things easier for me at the time. And I don't know if this is related to the '93-ness or not and maybe won't apply to the earlier version, but the brace that attaches the pipe to the trans xmember isn't the u-shape channel that my MJ's original downpipe had, but is just a piece of flat bar, which doesn't sit as well in its rubber block, meaning the exhaust does move around a bit more than it should, sometimes bouncing off the crossmember and floorboards, generally only during startup. I've had passengers say they've felt it banging against the floor with their feet. The next time I'm in there I'm going to try to address it.

While we're at it it should be mentioned that the fan comes out from the engine bay side of the firewall, not through the dash. Don't tear your dash apart looking for it. You may have a washer fluid bottle or coolant surge tank or something in the way, depending on the model (the above is a '91 if you're thinking it looks odd) but that cylindrical bit in the middle of the circle in the centre of the photo is the blower motor assembly. I think there's only three bolts around the outer edge of it holding it against the firewall. When you pull it off not to damage the drain tube, and remember to put it back on when you reassemble. If you opt for a new fan it should have the hole for it, remember it hoes down. When mine started making noise I shot it full of electrical cleaner a few times then put a bunch of aerosol grease onto the shaft as close as I could get to the bushings. It quieted it down and seemingly improved airflow a bit after that, but after six months or so it started making noise again. Never bothered doing anything about it though, I've got a decent used motor sitting on the shelf waiting to go in if it gets real bad... Usually just flipping the fan off and on quiets down the bushings for at least a little bit.

Actually just found it. Cool. Thanks!!

Ah, cool. Awesome. Totally working. Out of curiosity is there a way to turn them off?

My slider will pop open if you shake it back and forth. Don't know if it's just a worn out latch or what. I've never had theives attempt an ingress through there (hell, the doors are never even locked) but it's been handy a couple times if I did lock the doors, which almost inevitably means I locked the keys inside.

Just wondering if there was a way to be able to toggle signatures on or off on the mobile site. Even a site-wide on/off switch, if not just for individual posts. On the old site I was able to do this just by forcing the desktop site, but I haven't been able to do this so far.

Yeah the mobile site doesn't display them. Sorta a bummer when you need to mega creep someone just to see what they're working on when they don't have info in their post. When I asked if there was a way to force the desktop version on mobile (so I could see sigs, some extra features, etc) the response I got was that the mobile and desktop versions were the same. Which is largely true, just with some minor exceptions that I can't seem to get around... Like signatures.

I can't say I've spent much time staring into the engine bay of a Renix to see what kinda room there is, but I don't remember needing to pull anything to get the harmonic balancer out of my '91 4.0. Came at it from the bottom, used a cheapo parts-store puller. For putting it back on, use a longer bolt than just the retainer bolt to get it started, or you risk pulling the first couple threads out of the crank. Reason for my replacing the harmonic balancer was for an intermittent chirp-chirp that was slowly getting worse. The failing hb was separating at the rubber bit in the middle, meaning once per revolution the pulley was slowly kicking the serp belt further and further into the timing chain cover . The chirp was the belt sawing into the timing cover.

At what point does it start to hurt your eyes staring into all the dazzle? Lol Looks good.

Had to drive one a few years ago for work. Gen 2 though I think. 2008ish? But I don't know. Don't think I'd want to live with it all the time, winter didn't do it any favours, it actually got parked every winter and we extended its season given our office needed a vehicle, but it was sorta cool from a nerdy point of view. Biggest gripe was that it just wouldn't warm up until you were driving it. After cruising around with all the windows frosted over for a couple minutes it was fine, but those minutes where you barely dared to breath in the direction of a window were sketchy. Dealer insisted it was normal because it wasn't programmed to sit idling. Actually driving it was okay, if you were used to driving an appliance, at least.

^^^In most jurisdictions a salvage inspection is barely a quick check of a couple things to make sure it's not going to kill anyone and more an investigation to make sure you didn't just steal a car, strip it, dump it, buy it legally at the police/insurance auction, then put all the parts back on. I've found a few cases where you go to the yard based on a car-parts.com result, and while the vehicle may still be there, half the parts listed won't be. Either they don't bother updating, or someone trashed it while pulling something else, or grabbed a bunch of stuff from different vehicles and told the yard it was all off the same one... Not always the yard's fault. But when you're really hunting for something and it's not too far out of your way, it's worth the chance. You're far more likely to find something by looking where someone said it was than by checking a bunch of haystacks for a needle you have no evidence was ever in one of them. Alternatively you may also be able to reach out online to someone local to investigate further if the yard isn't helpful to your inquiries.

^^^ -17°F windchill is what Winnipeg calls a warm day.

I suppose it could also be a clogged a/c drain tube. Just thinking of other things that could be trapping moisture. There's definitely a bit much somewhere.

Do you usually park somewhere warm and dry, or do you leave it outside in the cold? Snow and ice tends to work it's way into strange places that rain doesn't always get to. Could be blowing in a small leak at the top of the windshield or back window, or maybe a tiny rust hole if your rust is that bad. Cold air getting in could also be causing frost to form somewhere, especially if it's more humid in the cab from water/snow brought in on boots. Just a guess, but could be worth it to pull the headliner just to see where the moisture's coming from.

https://www.riderville.com/riders-invade-arizona/ ...at least our teams don't need to hold CFL fan nights to fill our seats.

Now look here hoser. You take that back or I'll have to put your head in a snowbank, eh? Ya can't just go around spouting $#!& like that or someone will have to put you in your place before too much longer. /is only mildly offended.

12 could indicate an issue with battery connections but it comes on with almost every other code I've got so I wouldn't worry about it. 55 is end of codes. It loops a couple times after this if you missed something. The pauses between flashes are slightly longer between codes than between the two digits of one code, but all codes are two digits so it's easy enough to distinguish them.

That's... not hugely inaccurate. Lol. The Leafs will never win the cup. Everyone knows this. It'll cause a massive rift in the time-space continuum. The biggest advantage to how cold it got here is laughing at all those people in the north-east who are laughing at people in the south being cold because they think it's so much colder where they are... We don't get cold warnings until -40 and our school busses run down to -45°C. And I really don't live all that far north. One of the greatest Canadian passtimes is complaining about the weather.

Went home for Christmas this last week, and every single day was below -20°F, a couple below -30, and one morning was -43°F when I first looked at our thermometer. (Bimetallic coil and a dial guage, for the curious... All our other thermometers were off the scale), fortunately that didn't last long. -50 and -60°F windchills. Whether you're used to it or not, it bites. My alternator failed yesterday in the middle of nowhere. Barely made it into the city and to the only parts store open, and got the only one in stock they had listed. Sitting staring at it in the parking lot was the worst. I could leave my mitts off for all of a minute before my fingers started resisting moving. Gave up and begged a warm space from a friend's girlfriend's parents who I was vaguely aware were in the city. Used to it or not, that -40 mark, windchill or not, is pretty much a wall. You just can't function below that. But realistically the worst temperature is just below freezing. Even if you're used to it. The air still holds so much humidity, things melt on contact, most jackets are really overkill so you sweat, and you lose heat so much faster when you're wet. And the cold also sneaks up on you, it doesn't hit you as fast or as hard as it does at extreme negatives, so you don't realize how cold your fingers are until you're struggling to move them. Then they burn as they warm back up. But still, the skin on my hands isn't doing great after last night. That doesn't happen when it's warmer.