gogmorgo

I've had code 41 for bad battery cables/connections, which could also cause a no-crank and charging issues. I'm sure you've already looked at the battery cables though.

The factory bumper bolts double as hitch mounting bolts, so no worries about that part of the truck being sturdy. The factory bumper brackets are also pretty solid so you could probably just build something to mount to them the way the stock bumper does, but if you have the skills to build your own bumper, making new brackets for it shouldn't be an issue.

Before pulling the interior apart; The b-pillar lights tend to be problematic, with poor contacts that quit working over time anyhow. Not working doesn't necessarily mean they aren't getting power, so I would check that first. Should be three wires, one ground, one constant hot and one switched 12v with the doors. There are also optional footwell lights that attach to the bottom dash panel (the long one that goes all the way across with the ashtray in it) that are on the "dome" circuit and should also be getting power with the door switch. The radio, even if the factory unit, could've been pulled for an aftermarket unit then this one was put back in when a PO sold it, so it's most likely hooked up wrong directly behind the radio. Pulling the radio out is much easier than pulling the whole dash. There's a couple threads on here about stereo wiring, but I found that my factory units had a diagram specifying which functions on the plug did what, and it should just be a case of matching those functions to what's on the wire harness. My money's also on the ignition switch and dash light wires getting reversed in there. I seem to recall the "dome" circuit at the fuse panel doesn't actually have much to do with the dome lights, but I might be thinking about a different vehicle. But those things are both assuming the PO knew what they were doing when they did the 4.0 swap, and if things don't check out, you may end up having to pull it all apart just to be sure it's all done properly. As to the fuel gauge, as was said the Renix gauges and the HO gauges are reversed polarity through the sending unit, so HO gauges will read backwards with a Renix sender and vice-versa. While you've got the dash bezel off to check out the radio, see what colour the back of the gauge cluster is, which will give you a clue as to what it came out of and how to fix the reading backwards issue. With the exception of the fuel gauge and also mechanical vs electric speedometer, I'm told the Renix clusters will work with an HO, so it's uncertain what sender you have. I can imagine someone leaving in the mechanical speedometer just cause it's easier to deal with.

If you leave them unplugged it's a chance for something to get in there which could cause premature corrosion. But If you seal it complete, then the change in temperature as the radiator heats and cools could create extra pressure and pop something that maybe shouldn't pop. So maybe covered is good, but not necessarily a full plug.

That's what it *should* be. I haven't had a Windows machine for going on seven years now, but when I did I had a separate partition on my own hard drive that I was backing up to. Because I had no mind to leave things alone I found myself reinstalling off that backup pretty frequently. It was a fixed date sorta thing, so it had copies of my files I think once per week or something like that, so I could either get at things individually or else completely reinstall everything as it was on day X in the past. I'm also with you on not really wanting to back up to the "cloud". It's not so much a security thing for me as it is not really wanting to be constantly streaming that much bandwidth, or the event you need to restore you're relying on your internet connection. I'm not always in a place where there is an Internet connection. Sometimes I might rely on the cell network for Internet. So I back up on an external drive. Although ironically (and this sorta proves Jeep Driver's point) my iMac is still 100% the same hardware (less an extra couple ram chips) that I bought seven years ago to replace that Lenovo laptop. It's outlasted the Iomega external drive I bought around the same time, now I've got a Seagate. I just use the Time Machine utility, which backs up files individually or allows me to completely restore off the drive. I've never had to do a full restore off it, but I have gone back for the odd file. I have had a couple issues with the iMac's hard drive, although they were due to corruption of the os from a severe kernel panic that I traced to a bad aftermarket ram chip. But I was able to repair the file system and reinstall the os without losing my data off the HD in both cases... apple's disc utility is pretty sweet. I actually used it a few weeks ago to restore two weeks of work on my brother's master's thesis that he hadn't gotten around to backing up. But I digress. Back up to your original point, like I said that's what's supposed to happen. The files the backup utility creates are there to recreate your computer as it was on whatever day the backup was made, and it should be an exact replica. But I'll continue using "should" because my confidence in Microsoft's software doing everything it's supposed to isn't always super high.

I'd say you're on the right track. I've dollied a heavier vehicle (looking at ~3000lbs) from Manitoba out to Jasper behind my 530,000km MJ with no issues, including a panic stop going through Edmonton cause some moron thought the middle of an 80km/h road was a great place to leave a broken-down Tahoe... Came around a corner through an underpass and suddenly traffic was stopped. I also over Christmas dug my XJ out of its hole in the snow, where it sat untouched for nine months and off the road for at least two years, hooked up a 3500lb trailer, and towed that all the way out here, with no problems due to the trailer (alternator died in Lloyd) but I'm pretty sure at 330,000km it was still the original) , and all I did to that was drop in a new battery. Not to suggest that was a particularly wise move... I mean, I made sure the fluids were there and stuff but it was extreme cold warnings that whole trip and I was getting over a flu bug so I wasn't really feeling up to doing more than I absolutely needed to. I'm pretty sure the tow rating on the factory bumper was 2000lbs. But you're already ahead of me on my last haul because you've got a couple months to look things over, not a couple days with your bum clenched, and you're unlikely to freeze to death if you break down. Although plan your route carefully... I-29 is a pretty seriously monotonous drive, and I was on it from Kansas City all the way to Winnipeg on my own trip back from Alabama. 80mph interstates also aren't necessarily a place you want to be while driving at 90km/h. It might not be the worst idea to go through proper channels on importing the car, even if you're just planning on parting it out once you get it up here. CBSA will definitely have a few questions about it. Also if you happen to find some rust-free MJ rocker panels while you're at it down there, I'm sure I could find a use for them

Yeah, just run it as is. There likely isn't much alternative anyhow.

Transmission cooler/warmer for an automatic.

Ring gear side goes towards the engine. Looks like it's right to me, although yeah, if you can't turn the engine over then something's wrong. Is there a chance something's jammed in the ring gear?

You didn't bump the vacuum line to the map sensor, or the wires, while you had the trans out? Or more specifically when you were putting it back in. Also make sure the CPS or any other wires aren't laying on the exhaust manifold.

The most I've ever paid for gas in my life was at a resort near Panamint Springs. With exchange it worked out to $1.55/L, which is almost $5/gal. Just a heads up.

You wouldn't have that issue if you lived up here. Didn't break freezing all day today. Or yesterday. Or the day before, or the one before that... you get the point, lol.

If you're real slow on the movement you can use a digital, it just takes forever to watch it react, like open a tiny bit and wait for numbers to stabilize, etc. But analogue will be much better, as you'll watch the needle jump if it hits a bad spot, without having to wait. Even just a cheap analogue multimeter will work for that.

That's what I eventually ended up doing my first time, if I didn't say that, just replacing the whole thing.

That's the principal of an intercooler on a turbo setup, allowing more pressure without cooking the engine. Although I'm surprised you notice a difference... My MJ runs the same temps at 80°F as it does at -40°F, it just takes a bit longer in the cold.

Back in February of 2015 my Niva started having brake issues. One of the calipers was leaking, but it was my only ride to work so I drove on it anyway, just took things real easy until I could get a new calliper shipped from Ukraine. But then one day I lost the clutch. This wasn't the end of the world, and it still drove okay, starting in gear wasn't an issue, but I figured I could live without a clutch, or I could live with questionable brakes, but doing without both was irresponsible. I was also super broke at the time. I discovered the clutch had failed because the master cylinder had sucked in some air. The clutch and brakes have remote reservoirs (because the spare sits right above them I guess) and the 90° elbow for the clutch reservoir hose had snapped off. So what I did was to drill a hole in the top of the elbow, replace the rubber hose with some vinyl tubing I had from another project which I heated up with a lighter to expand over the remaining nub of the broken elbow, and used a hose clamp to secure it. That still leaked, so I took some chewing gum and used that to seal around the end of the nub. It worked. Three years later it's still like that because it still works, doesn't leak, and I'd have to replace the whole master cylinder because I can't get just the elbow, so I haven't bothered. Don't have pics of the fix right now (the Lada's under a foot of snow right now) but this is the broken elbow:

I would expect more than 3.5" to match the SOA as well...

Although the tesla is aluminum and composite so it wouldn't rust anyway...

Wouldn't low coolant flow cause overheating, not the OP's, um, underheating?

I dunno. I'm guessing the vacuum of space and intense cold would help to preserve it somewhat. Beyond the sandblasting from space dust and radiation.

Did you compare the new and old flex plates to make sure the timing windows around the edge were the same? I wouldn't think an empty trans would make a huge difference in the way an engine runs. You'd just end up with a big box of neutrals if you don't have fluid splashing around the torque converter. You didn't pinch any wires or hoses when you were putting the trans back in? Bump the CPS against the ring gear?

The forum I picked this up on, the guy was suggesting the selection of what got in and what didn't was mostly which box of files got picked up at random on day X, before '98. I would guess that the older the vehicle the further back in the room it would be buried. Chrysler historical supposedly has most of the paper copies and can look them up too. My says zone for Alberta but I know from other Chrysler records (dealer lookup) that it was sold 1000 miles away in MB, build date Jan 22, in-service feb 8th. So I don't know what the zone thing really means.

I Suspect you'd have a "rear bumper delete" option, or a "Chrome rear bumper" or "rear tube bumper" if it had something out of the ordinary. Front bumper doesn't surprise me that it's on there either because you could get painted black, painted body colour, chrome, or painted a secondary trim colour... my '92 XJ is black cherry with silver flares, bumpers, etc. Once you replace this don't overload the glovebox so it doesn't keep the light on and drain your battery... Not end of the world drainage if you drive every day, but if you leave it parked for a week or two at a time, in the winter... Yeah. No bueno.

Should just be a pdf? My phone opened it with no issues.

Front axle will bolt in, rear axle not so much. If you can identify the gear ratio in the MJ's axle (knowing what engine and trans were in it would give you a good guess, or figure out a way to measure it) you may be able to reuse it if it matches the XJ front (or if you don't want to be 4x4, stick the transfer case in and leave it in 2wd...). But I'm guessing if it's left in the shell you likely won't want to, as the later XJ's axle is probably a stronger C8.25 (although that's not a guarantee), if it was a stronger MJ axle than the d35, whoever stripped the drivetrain likely would've taken that too. To use the XJ's rear axle you'll need to cut off the spring perches and weld on new ones as they aren't in the same spot on the MJ. Look up any of the axle swap threads in the DIY forum to see how to do that.