gogmorgo

I think the 3.73's would have been part of the tow package, although I didn't realize there was more than one. (Two prep package "B")

It's not unusual for year ranges to be listed as '01-'84, so I imagine you're correct and that's what it means. But yeah, it's a little weird.

You're reading it wrong. It's got the "standard equipment" on the left hand side (including the argent steel wheels) and on the right hand side it has the 4.0 under "optional or upgraded equipment".

Before doing that, find the ballast resistor (Alamo-shaped white ceramic block on the driver's inner fender) and jumper across between the two wires.

I'll add to what everyone else said that if you're mechanically inclined at all, don't be afraid of getting a 2wd if it's the right truck. Like the XJ, the MJ was originally designed as a 4x4, and when they made the 2wds, they just "deleted" the 4x4 parts. Aside from getting the rear driveshaft shortened and possibly drilling some holes for the t-case shifter, it's a bolt-on swap. That looks like one of those custom-built box covers. There were "factory" (dealer-installed usually) bed caps, but they're fibreglass and much cleaner than that job.

The little box with the gears is the o2 maintenance reminder timer. Eventually it'll trigger a light on the dash, if it hasn't already. www.cruiser54.com. It sounds like you've already got started on his tips. As far as not starting goes, when you changed the switch you may have to readjust the switch rod, if you haven't already.

My bad. Cool deal though.

Or you could go with a Chrysler 8.25 rear end out of a 97+ XJ, and have an axle that is the correct width already :dunno: But you should look into both rear axles. They've all been swapped many times, and both have their advantages and disadvantages.

"Only $30" is a good reason not to go for it. Keeping your wheels attached is pretty important. Too important not to get quality parts. It's not just your own safety you need to think about, but also the safety of everyone else on or around the road.

Yeah that's what I thought they were called, got confused I guess. I haven't stumbled across a full set of them yet. Still not completely sold yet though. I'm pretty partial to the old d-window five-spokes, but I'm struggling to find the kind of tire in the size I want without going to a taller wheel, so the 16" ZJ wheels are getting more and more appealing. Only now I'm thinking the other one you pictured is the 16. Either way I agree. They're pretty awful chromed.

This one. I'm calling it that because your post and Dirty's blended together in my mind and I associated the names and photos respectively. Or something.

I may have confused it with the D30. I would trust Eagle over my own foggy memory.

I kinda like the honeycomb rims. Just not necessarily in gold. Maybe with a charcoal grey paint behind them.

Shiney. But holy crap... $13,600 and reserve not yet met. :eek:

There's a good chance if it's been leaking badly for a while the leak could have eroded some material from the block. If you've got something with a straight edge you can run it across the surface to check for high or low spots. As far as actually torquing down the bolts, 13 ft-lbs is barely anything. Pretty well just snug. I've always just gotten them tight with a 1/4" ratchet.

There's more information about all of this stuff in the DIY section of the forum. As far as parts interchangeability, pretty well everything from the front doors forward is the same as a same-year similarly equipped XJ (Cherokee). The drivetrain itself will also be the same with the exception of the rear driveshaft length and the location of the rear spring perches. If you still have the original gears, a 4.0 with a manual would have been equipped with a 3.07 gear ratio. There were some minor changes on some of D35 axle and differential stuff, the biggest being a change to a c-clip rear axle. If you look up the parts at a parts store (rockauto or amazon, even), they should be able to tell you the year ranges they'll fit, or they'll have a description of the part itself so you'd match what you have. No guarantees there's original parts in a diff that sounds like it's been as attacked as yours... one wheel drive and what's your plan to get that shaft out of there if it's been welded to the gear? I believe the carrier break is 3.73-down and 4.10-up. I'm not 100% on which side of the break 3.73 is, but 3.07 and 4.10 will use a different carrier. An automatic-equipped 4.0 XJ will have a 3.55 ratio, but the carrier will be the same as your 3.07. A couple things worth pointing out though is that it's very definitely not worth the money to rebuild a Dana 35. They'll hold up to gentle (street) use, but they are pretty flimsy. If you have a factory Dana 40 under there (rare but not unreasonably so) then it's likely worth the time and money. If not, then good candidates for axle swaps (most of which can be picked up used fairly cheaply) are C8.25's out of the later year XJ's, and Ford 8.8's out of Explorers. Both of those axles have been swapped in by members here many times, and there's good info in the DIY forum about them. As far as how compatible things are between your '89 and a '94/5, there was a very major update between '90 and '91 model years. Most of the basic stuff will still swap across, (body panels, interior parts, engine block) but just about everything related to engine control was changed and most of that stuff will not fit without (in most cases major) modification. Again, there's stuff in the DIY about swapping stuff across between them.

Clean and smooth is the thing to look for, whether you're using RTV or a gasket. If you have had to clean it up a whole bunch (and then probably there are higher and low spots depending on where you've sanded or filed it down and how much material you've removed, and RTV will do a better job of filling in the gaps. But you definitely want to make sure you've got a nice, clean, and flat mounting surface. I've had great luck with just the gaskets and no RTV whenever I've done a t-stat, but that may be exactly that. Luck.

Of course if you had a bad vacuum leak somewhere and had a coolant geyser hit it, it could have pulled some in. Something else unlikely I just though of, the heater flow valve is vacuum operated and would have coolant going through it. I just can't really see it failing in a way that would draw in coolant without it having pretty well exploded. As far as the coolant in the vacuum lines goes, yeah it runs fine for now, but unless you're draining it regularly or else find and fix the problem, it will slowly fill with coolant which will gradually inhibit the function of the vacuum system.

I can't think of any spot where you'd be able to suck a little bit of coolant into the vacuum system. Really the only thing I can think of would be if someone hooked an overflow line for an open cooling system into a vacuum line, in which case you'd have a lot of coolant in the lines, and probably also overheating issues.

It's probably going to be easier to drain the coolant via the drain C#*@ in the rad. Good luck finding a tool for the block drain... Edit: drain rooster? Drain willy? I swear that's not a swear word...

Oil's shelf life is pretty good. I don't know if it's 30 years good, though. I expect that eventually some of the additives will slowly break down some of the base oils. At the same time, it wouldn't surprise me at all if there were some poorly maintained cars from the 80's kicking around with original gear oil in them still.

What happens when you shift to neutral? And then try shifting back and forth between park and neutral a bunch? If that fixes the problem, you probably need to clean your neutral safety switch. NSS. http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neutral-safety-switch-nss/ I can't think of anything that might cause a no-crank related to flat towing, unless somehow you hooked the strap around the starter wires, which would frankly be impressive. Or if the trans had seized and sheered itself from the engine, tearing off the starter in the process, which I suspect you would have noticed. I can't really see a single mile doing anything to the trans in neutral. or even drive without the engine running... no engine means no atf pressure means all gears are neutrals.

Are you sure the speakers even work? Especially if you see a lot of rough terrain, the wires inside the speakers seem to like coming off. I replaced one with another from my parts stash only to discover that it also was broken in the same way. Fortunately I had a couple others in the stash as well. Wouldn't surprise me if the PO had replaced the head unit trying to fix a speaker issue.

They should always be saved. Not even a question.

Correct. I would argue that the statement is mostly incorrect. In a system where harmonic oscillation is a problem, adding a damper (like the steering stabilizer) is a perfectly sound engineering solution. That said, unless the factory stabilizer is worn out, replacing it won't do much, and if the vibration causing the death wobble is severe enough to cause it with a perfectly functioning damper, then yes, there's something else that needs addressed. No tire is going to remain perfectly balanced (flat spots from sitting for short periods, uneven wear from hitting cracks in the road, etc) so there's always going to be some vibration in the system which the steering stabilizer will successfully dampen and prevent from causing problems, unless the steering stabilizer is worn out of course. But this is an old thread about a very controversial issue, so I'm not hugely interested in arguing about it. There are so many potential causes of the vibration that could trigger death wobble that there are so many possible solutions. Be it tire balance, worn out ball joints, bad wheel bearings, failing suspension bushings, worn out/bent steering components or suspension links... no one solution is going to be a guaranteed fix for someone else's problem.